FJ60/62 Rear Bumper Kits

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Modifying spindle to fit photos:

PXL_20250715_151020171.webp

PXL_20250715_152525526.webp

PXL_20250715_151117287.webp

PXL_20250715_154350316.webp


I did this with a digital caliper (measured down at 4 points and transferred to spindle), angle grinder with cut-off and flap disks and a bucket of water to cool the dang things off. Oh, and tape to try and give me a guide line. Would have been lots easier with a metal bandsaw where you can clamp everything down, but I'm not that well equipped. Left the recommended 1/8" (or 3mm) gap for clearance.

Worth nothing this was a complex bevel, meaning that there are 2 angles, the main slope you can see in the last photo and a smaller secondary exactly opposite to clear the next piece out.
 
Sumguy said:
I did this with a digital caliper (measured down at 4 points and transferred to spindle), angle grinder with cut-off and flap disks and a bucket of water to cool the dang things off. Oh, and tape to try and give me a guide line. Would have been lots easier with a metal bandsaw where you can clamp everything down, but I'm not that well equipped. Left the recommended 1/8" (or 3mm) gap for clearance.

Worth nothing this was a complex bevel, meaning that there are 2 angles, the main slope you can see in the last photo and a smaller secondary exactly opposite to clear the next piece out.
Click to expand...
Nice write up. I just did this yesterday on my bandsaw - the main bevel is 12 degrees. I went a little more caveman than you, just marked the shortest point to trim (9/16”) which is visible on the left side of the blue tape. After that, i only needed a little trim on one edge for the secondary angle.

I didn’t recall seeing anything about a 1/8” gap above the top plate - which I didn’t do. Hopefully that’s not an issue. {edit: it wasn't}

IMG_7927.webp
 
Last edited:
Just finished installing mine today. There were 2 changes I made that I felt were important enough to note here for others. Basically, putting in positive stops on both sides of the swing, for the swingarm. On the "closed" side, I used 2" angle with a piece of rubber (old inner tube) to provide a little cushion (3m vhb tape):

PXL_20251018_154744233.webp


Oh, that also shows the UHM plastic for the end of the arms to rest on if they should sag (unloaded/no weight they float over it just barely), and my latch to keep closed which goes through the top steel of the bumper. And another angle of that:
PXL_20251018_164948506.webp



And then I realized that the swingarms will hit the corners of the body if you parked on a slope and let the swingarm go. So I welded a piece of 3/4 angle. This works by itself on the fuel can side (was going to slip a piece of heater hose over it for cushion), but my cooler shelf is wider so I'm going to use a little of the extra UHM plastic facing towards the swingarm to space it away from hitting the rear fenders.

PXL_20251025_142525889.webp



Past that, I'm happy enough. Only complaints are my inexperience with welding/fabricating/painting (basically, making it look nicer)... oh, and the slight twist in my 60 frame that made for things to not line up nicely.

Edited to add that I also retained the trailer hitch that was already installed (were they stock? didn't have stickers like my other, modern, Toyotas). To achieve this I cut the welds on one side plate, slightly modified both side plates so it would fit on top of the bottom frame rail (where the bumper mount sits on the bottom of the bottom frame rail) and then welded the side plate back in place:

HMJJiGl.jpeg

R6zJ3nW.jpeg


This is the front most part, on top of TT c-channel replacement kit:
w3TIfdo.jpeg


ZvMEPZ4.jpeg

QShfm4B.jpeg


BwhLPA5.jpeg



I just liked the idea of having the extra rigidity since the OEM crossmember is a bit rotten, having Another recovery point never hurts, and I really like using "washers" to bolt things to the frame since it's so light duty/rust-prone... I feel like the sandwich of bumper mount-frame-hitch makes for a stronger overall unit. Not concerned with ground clearance since I'm still using stock tire sizes and have the spare in the stock location. It's the limiting factor. Oh, and maybe I'll even tow with this sometime, you never know?!
 
Last edited:
Sumguy said:
Just finished installing mine today. There were 2 changes I made that I felt were important enough to note here for others. Basically, putting in positive stops on both sides of the swing, for the swingarm. On the "closed" side, I used 2" angle with a piece of rubber (old inner tube) to provide a little cushion (3m vhb tape):

View attachment 4017991

Oh, that also shows the UHM plastic for the end of the arms to rest on if they should sag (unloaded/no weight they float over it just barely), and my latch to keep closed which goes through the top steel of the bumper. And another angle of that:
View attachment 4017990


And then I realized that the swingarms will hit the corners of the body if you parked on a slope and let the swingarm go. So I welded a piece of 3/4 angle. This works by itself on the fuel can side (was going to slip a piece of heater hose over it for cushion), but my cooler shelf is wider so I'm going to use a little of the extra UHM plastic facing towards the swingarm to space it away from hitting the rear fenders.

View attachment 4017989


Past that, I'm happy enough. Only complaints are my inexperience with welding/fabricating/painting (basically, making it look nicer)... oh, and the slight twist in my 60 frame that made for things to not line up nicely.

Edited to add that I also retained the trailer hitch that was already installed (were they stock? didn't have stickers like my other, modern, Toyotas). To achieve this I cut the welds on one side plate, slightly modified both side plates so it would fit on top of the bottom frame rail (where the bumper mount sits on the bottom of the bottom frame rail) and then welded the side plate back in place:

HMJJiGl.jpeg

R6zJ3nW.jpeg


This is the front most part, on top of TT c-channel replacement kit:
w3TIfdo.jpeg


ZvMEPZ4.jpeg

QShfm4B.jpeg


BwhLPA5.jpeg



I just liked the idea of having the extra rigidity since the OEM crossmember is a bit rotten, having Another recovery point never hurts, and I really like using "washers" to bolt things to the frame since it's so light duty/rust-prone... I feel like the sandwich of bumper mount-frame-hitch makes for a stronger overall unit. Not concerned with ground clearance since I'm still using stock tire sizes and have the spare in the stock location. It's the limiting factor. Oh, and maybe I'll even tow with this sometime, you never know?!
Click to expand...
Very cool that you’re putting this together yourself. This bumper was the first welding project my son and I did back in 2011 (stick welder). There were a lot of learnings from that job. Curious why you’re keeping the rear crossmember as well as the old trailer hitch. Most cut in a receiver hitch into the Fourrunner bumper. The old crossmember and the hitch are overkill. And our main purpose for this bumper is clearance and getting the spare tire out from under the truck. Pic below shows the receiver hitch cut in. I use this to pull my camping trailer.
IMG_1036.webp
 
CenTXFJ60 said:
Very cool that you’re putting this together yourself. This bumper was the first welding project my son and I did back in 2011 (stick welder). There were a lot of learnings from that job. Curious why you’re keeping the rear crossmember as well as the old trailer hitch. Most cut in a receiver hitch into the Fourrunner bumper. The old crossmember and the hitch are overkill. And our main purpose for this bumper is clearance and getting the spare tire out from under the truck. Pic below shows the receiver hitch cut in. I use this to pull my camping trailer.
Click to expand...

Not sure how to answer that. Partly complexity (cutting metal plate, I only have a 4.5" angle grinder for cutting metal), partly liking things be "robust" (wanting a backing plate to any/all fasteners through the frame since my frame has some rot). Partly differing purpose... I'll *never* use tires that won't fit in the stock location, or drive this in a way that would require otherwise. Having the original crossmember and a lower hitch have no negatives... I did spend a Little time (30 min?) on modifying that hitch, but that was far less than modifying the bumper and I have no doubts about it being able to do the job. I have no clue how to actually engineer a hitch into a plate bumper, and knowing my luck I'd end up losing a trailer into a litigation lawyer who turns me into an indentured servant over my inability to engineer. Just not worth it when I saw an easier path.

Not saying my way is right, or wrong.. it's just one of many ways.
 
Sumguy said:
Not sure how to answer that. Partly complexity (cutting metal plate, I only have a 4.5" angle grinder for cutting metal), partly liking things be "robust" (wanting a backing plate to any/all fasteners through the frame since my frame has some rot). Partly differing purpose... I'll *never* use tires that won't fit in the stock location, or drive this in a way that would require otherwise. Having the original crossmember and a lower hitch have no negatives... I did spend a Little time (30 min?) on modifying that hitch, but that was far less than modifying the bumper and I have no doubts about it being able to do the job. I have no clue how to actually engineer a hitch into a plate bumper, and knowing my luck I'd end up losing a trailer into a litigation lawyer who turns me into an indentured servant over my inability to engineer. Just not worth it when I saw an easier path.

Not saying my way is right, or wrong.. it's just one of many ways.
Click to expand...
Definitely understand. There is no right or wrong way. The key is it meets your needs and it’s functional. And I commend you on tackling this on your own.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom