FJ43 Build from Far Far Away.

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Well the family is making the 3100 mile drive from the Oregon Coast to the Georgia Coast tomorrow morning. Packed to the gills and while there is a 3.0L diesel Mercedes engine going back with them it is not the right one.

Anyone wants an 08 E320 Bluetec just let me know. Oddly never sold before she left. Haha I wish they would have totaled it during its fender bender so I could take the engine out of this and throw it in the FJ43!!! Maybe in the future they will have adapter kits for what will then be "old technology" Maybe everything will be wireless by then and it will make it easy.
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Well I'm back and things are getting back to "Normal". I think once I get back to work things will settle in. Been thinking about getting back on this. Still haven't decided what to do about the engine. Crazy things are telling me to completely rebuild the engine, balance everything, then build a compound turbo set up throw on an intercooler and some Water Meth, crank up the pump to max and build it right the first time. But that would mean, Time/Money of which I really have neither as we are down to one car until this is complete. I just want the thing DONE!

But besides a couple hours of body work and work on the cage for seat belts nothing has been done since July.

I've been messing around with RPM calculators though and I think 4.88' or 5.29's might actually fit well in the car as long as I don't ever want to cruiser at 100 MPH :)
 
Welcome back and I'm glad to see you are getting back to it.
If you are going to stay with 33" tires the 4.88's will be great with the 5 speed. I am currently running 35's with 4.11's and it is still pulling fine although it wouldn't if I had overdrive. I will be going to 4.88's or 5.29's soon to keep up with the 35's and possible going to 37's.
As far as cruising at 100 mph, not possible without completely redesigning the aerodynamics of a 40. I would say just put the engine in and don't worry about compounds. You would need a pump out of Sweden to get the full potential out of them.
Just get it running and enjoy it.
 
Thanks for the real world info. I might be going up to 35" tires when these wear out and I have a change in life/driving style and end up taking it off the beaten path a bit more. We will see.

I was joking about the 100 MPH :) There are a few free ways that do 70 MPH here in the South but most likely I will just take in the scenery at 65, put on the cruise control and let the people pass by. Much more relaxing that way and what is an extra 30 minutes on the road in the end?

Yeah I'm not going to do compounds but I need to seriously consider the intercooler again. Makes it much easier to make room for something like that before all of the condensors/radiator and fans are put on. My brother scored a late 1960's P-14 fiberglass boat that they are going to bring out so we can enjoy it in Savannah with the family. So keeping the little engine cool and in the right gear is going to be important. Really hoping the stock radiator with a good electric fan and an intercooler can do it. Besides the long slow trip across the US it is only a 30 minute drive on roads no faster than 40 to the boat ramps around here though.

Hell it even matches. Has a nice brand new 4 stoke 15 HP engine but he says it will not get up on plane with more than one person in it. Manuals online state it is rated for 900 LBS total with engine gear and people. I see a lot of old vintage engines in this area due to all of the boats. Need to see if I can find a nice 40HP Johnson but it will be hard to give up the nice new electric start and 4 stoke. He says he went fishing all day on a 3 gallons gas tank in the bay.

Also I love the stock alternator but might be going to something a little bigger. Don't think the 55 amp little guy will be able to pull the load. Might just change that out later though.

Brother has been killing the fish this season in it.
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I knew you were joking about the 100MPH;) but I forgot to use the sarcasm font.

The stock radiator is big enough to keep the engine cool, and an intercooler would be a valuable addition even without added fuel, I think.
 
jstncse said:
The stock radiator is big enough to keep the engine cool, and an intercooler would be a valuable addition even without added fuel, I think.
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X2. I pull a small trailer BBQ pit with the pig no problem, I think the gears you're talking about will help (going to 4:11 from 3:73 in mine). You should be able to pull that little boat around no problem ;-)

Tucker
 
Thank you for the info everyone. I need to get focused on getting the engine rebuilt so I can get this thing home and after a couple of months of driving around I can figure out which gears I will want/need.

As soon as the Government decides it is going to pass a budget so I know I will continue to get paid I can start throwing the Benjamins back at this project, of which I have a feeling it has many more to take from me.
 
Just a smidgen of the parts ordered today for the diesel rebuild. Already had some head bolts in a bag from another engine I never rebuilt in College. Had to order my timing chain off of Amazon of all places as it was by far the cheapest and only one that wasn't back ordered (at least they haven't told me that yet). Had to order a bunch of odd harmonic balancer bolts and dowels from Mercedes themselves, and one of my good buddies back in Portland had some newerISH pistons ($245 a piece new) and new sleeves in the box still. The engine I bought supposedly had new bearings (verified they looked new) and rings (might have to buy more as I'm still learning how to tell if they are new or not.

Waiting on the previous owner (who's email I finally found from back in September 2010 when I purchased the engine to remind me what he replaced and didn't.

Tracking down a local to help me with the fuel injection system and rebuild all of the injectors and tune my pump once I get it back.

This is going to slow the project down about 3 months instead of just plopping a donor engine in, but I will know that ever single piece of the engine has been rebuilt and balanced and better than it was new at the factory. At least on the inside. If I need to do more to other components they are all on the outside and I can get to them later.

1 0009871145 Fuel Hose/Line; Diesel Injector Overflow Line End Plug; Hose Plug
1 0009975152 Diesel Cigar Hose; Low Pressure Injection Pump Return Hose; 325mm Length
1 0009978194 Oil Pump Chain; Double Row 42 Link
1 0019973094 Timing Chain; Double Row 136 Link with Master Link
1 0029973430 Oil Drain Plug; 12x1.5mm
1 0069972645 Dip Stick Tube Seal; O-Ring at Oil Dipstick and/or Turbo Drain Tube
1 007603-012102 Oil Drain Plug Gasket; 12mm Copper Seal Washer; 12x16x1.5mm
1 0159979448 Oil Filter Gasket; For Tube at Oil Filter Canister Lid; 6x10x2mm
1 1109933901 Timing Tensioner Spring
1 1110180080 Oil Filler Cap; Gasket; 47x59x2.5mm
1 1110180302 Oil Filler Cap; Plastic Twist-On Style
1 1210520301 Camshaft Sprocket/Gear; Timing Chain Sprocket at Camshaft; Double Row
1 1457434153 Fuel Filter; Spin-On Style
1 1802030980 Water Pump Gasket; Water Pump Housing to Block
2 6050780581 Fuel Hose/Line; Braided Hose; 3.2mm ID x 1.9mm Wall; Per Meter;
1 6150310051 Crankshaft Oil Seal; Spacer Ring; Front Crankshaft Seal
1 6150500916 Timing Chain Guide/Rail; Clamping Lever Tensioner Rail
1 6150501416 Timing Chain Guide/Rail; Sliding Guide Cylinder Head at Idler Gear
1 6150521016 Timing Chain Guide/Rail; Lower Outer; 129mm
1 6150521116 Timing Chain Guide/Rail; Lower Inner; 119mm
5 6159900112 Cylinder Head Bolt; 12x104mm; 12 Point Allen head
8 6159900312 Cylinder Head Bolt; 12x145mm; 12 Point Allen Head
5 6160530329 Valve Guide; Intake; Standard 14x10x60mm
5 6160530330 Valve Guide; Exhaust; Standard 14x10x48.5mm
1 6161840780 Oil Filter Gasket; Oil Filter Housing to Engine Block
1 6162010080 Water Pump Gasket; Pump to Housing
1 6162030280 Thermostat Housing Gasket; Thermostat Housing to Cylinder Head
1 6170101205 Block/Lower Engine Gasket Set
1 6170108820 Cylinder Head Gasket Set
1 6170160180 Valve Cover Gasket
1 6170300062 Thrust Washer; Thrust Washer Set of 4; Standard 2.15mm
5 6170380150 Wrist Pin Bushing; 31.00mm
1 6170500067 Valve Stem Seal Set
1 6170520280 Timing Chain Tensioner Gasket
1 6171810059 Oil Pump Chain Guide/Rail
1 6210500409 Timing Chain Sprocket/Gear; Idler Gear
1 74002 Fuel Filter; Inline Filter; 90 Degree White
 
Nice, very nice.
I had to replace the rod bolts when I balanced mine, they are stretch to torque and could not handle a retorque.
 
tucker74 said:
Ouch, that's not an inexpensive parts list on these engines :(. At least you know it will be done right -

Tucker
Click to expand...

You know it really wasn't that bad. If you have a good all in one engine rebuilder near by. If I had to buy pistons and bearings as well it would have been much much more probably another $1500.

jstncse said:
Nice, very nice.
I had to replace the rod bolts when I balanced mine, they are stretch to torque and could not handle a retorque.
Click to expand...

Yep those were parts I ordered from a MB parts wholesaler. About $6.20 a bolt so not to bad. They were cheaper than autohausaz which is by far my favorite place to shop.
 
Picked up a Taurus type fan at the junkyard today for 15 bucks. They took a picture of it on the radiator as well and it looks a little long. Said he didn't even have to pull it as someone took the radiator and had that laying in the trunk. He didn't even know what year it was on, I'll have to ask him the model of car he got it from.

So far the fan appears cheap but the correct and best way to control it is not so cheap. Both the DCC and the Flex-lite options are both near $200. My best friend growing up owns a radiator and glass shop so taking that over soon to get it a fresh up. I don't think we will have any problems cooling this little 3.0L down, at least I hope. I plan on running the A/C FULL BLAST all summer long.

I remember sitting in a traffic Jam in Portland in mid summer right after I commissioned in 2006. I was in my black Mercedes 1983 Wagon with black interior. It was probably 90-100 out which is very rare for the area. After 5 minutes I had to turn on my heater full blast and roll the windows down. It worked very well and cooled down quick but I was not a happy camper for the 30-45 minutes I was stuck there. NEVER AGAIN.
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Well all of the parts should finally be there tomorrow and the engine will be off to the builder. He said he will have it done by New Years. Hopefully early as we just purchased tickets home for Christmas this year and I would love to get it all in and do some work.

They got it outside and started body work. Filling old un-needed holes and sand blasting the spots there was surface rust. Luckily it was just that and there isn't a bit of rust anywhere on the entire frame or body. YAY!!! Not sure how we are going to tackle the seams as they were filler/faked before during the last Colombian restore so we will likely do the same. Dad said whatever primer they used was really really hard.

Other than that just some pictures the body work continues. After that we will color match and spray Raptor color matched liner on the bottom. Will likely stop before the firewall but we may keep going up for sound insulation and heat insulation. Not sure though as I hate when mud gets back there and sticks. After that to the paint booth. I'm guessing it will be another month before any real updates though.

The car in the background is an early 240D that has brand new tires and runs great if anyone is interested. Dad took it in on partial trade when he Sold his 300CD that he has been driving around the past couple of years.
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Not sure if you said earlier but why the '73-'78 rear fuel door pocket instead of '79-'84?

How will you strip it? I've always dreamt of having a tub acid dipped.
 
Chamba said:
Not sure if you said earlier but why the '73-'78 rear fuel door pocket instead of '79-'84?

How will you strip it? I've always dreamt of having a tub acid dipped.
Click to expand...

Because I'm an idiot!!!! I saw one post up for sale and didn't even think about it. I sent it and he didn't compare them or ask me. I didn't notice it until you just did as well. Ohh well. I figure once it is all the same red it won't stick out as much. I'll chalk it up to one of those mistakes that hopefully only I, and the few people reading this thread will ever know about!!!
 
Just some more pictures from today.

My dad has a blast "pun totally intended" doing this type of stuff. Those upper fenders are some of the worst pieces he said so that is good to see.

First picture the steering arm is just a fill in to keep the Stainless arm shiny until the end.

Last one is just a pick of a cool Mercedes he saw driving up HWY 101 in town today.

Answered my own question about the shock bushings. My dad had canabilized them for cage mounts.
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Electric fan relay kit

Hello, I just discovered your fj build, nice work.
I just installed the 617 diesel in My landcruiser fj60 , finalizing the final under hood details. I also used the taurus/markVIII 2 sped electric fan, great fan imo.
Just as an fyi
Hollister road company.com has a great wiring/relay kit with temp sensors i used
Great price,quality & well enginered. Easy to install. Check it out.
Also mercedes source.com great source for how to articles & videos on keeping the diesel tuned. They also sell parts.
Hope this helps your project along.
EE
 
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