Is this my ignition noise suppressor item 3 on the list and does it go here? Thanks.
FJ40 Wire Harness Reference - December 1978 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter woytovich
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Also curious if anyone recalls where this goes?
Up left side of windshield to power interior light on DS hardtop B pillar (or the wire from the windshield to B pillar). I think it's the one through the windshield, but length would be the key.
Also curious if anyone recalls where this goes?
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I assuming the main main power wire coming from the battery attaches to the small of the three wires coming off the positive battery terminal. What is the middle wire for?
I assuming the main main power wire coming from the battery attaches to the small of the three wires coming off the positive battery terminal. What is the middle wire for?
don't think there was a middle wire. your positive cable doesn't look to be stock
yeah you are probably right the positive connection coming off the battery is probably not stock. I am going to hook up the center one to the main power feed white wire that goes to the harness with a fuseable link. The smaller gauge wire is likely just an extra power wire which I will use for my horn relay or fog lights.
Could anyone tell me which of the two b/w wires go to the S spade on my GR starter, 13 or 15? #13 b/w (smaller ga), is hot when the key is turned on and 15 in not.
Here is a picture. My current plan is to run 15 to the start and use 13 for my DUI Dizzy.
Here is a picture. My current plan is to run 15 to the start and use 13 for my DUI Dizzy.
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I have a couple of question regarding the fuse box. Do most people ground to the bolt that attaches the fuse box? What are the two connections on the back of the fuse box for? Also, curious what the PO was using the yellow wire for that is spliced into the blue wire shown in the picture? Any help would be great. See pictures below.
yes those grounds go there - the extra terminals are extra +12volts I believe one is on all the time and the other is only on with the key.
sweet thanks antFJ. Good to note.
Sorry for all the questions, wiring day. Maybe this is a silly question, but do I need an ignitor if I have installed a DUI Dizzy? I am trying to find a home for wires 3 & 4. I don't believe that I ever had an ignitor prior to my frame off.
Coolerman
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No igniter needed for the DUI. It has that built in. It just needs a large key switched +12V wire. The large BY wire that went to the old ignitor is the wire to use IF you don't have a 78 with the pink Yazaki resistor wire buried inside the harness. That wire will only have about 6-9 volts on it due to the fact it is a resistor wire (took the place of the ballast resistor). If you do have a resistor wire you will need to use that wire to trigger a relay connected to full +12V.
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Would it be "better" to use a relay anyway (to avoid drawing unnecessary power through the stock harness & switch?) I guess the question is: how much current would be drawn and for how long?
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The HEI draws a lot of current all the time, so it would be better to power it off a relay in the engine bay. There are 2 power wires connected to 78-80 ignitor & coil, one is 12V for the ignitor, the other is the low voltage ballast wire to power the coil. Trigger the ignition relay with the 12V ignitor wire, and source relay power from a fused battery wire.
Coolerman
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DUI says on their website that a 12ga wire is needed so I would use the relay option for sure.
Here is a re-post from a Chevy forum about HEI current draw in the cap in coil dizzy: I take no responsibility for the content!
Start Quotes:
" HEI systems surge upon first power up, some as much as 25+ amperes. For a SHORT amount of time!"
"HEI ignition systems should NEVER be fused. Why? Due to the large inrush current, figuring out the correct fuse to use would be difficult. A fusible link would be the preferred way to protect this circuit. A larger wire gauge really isn't needed to supply the HEI with adequate amperes to operate as it only pulls about 4 amps while idling and about 2 amps when running at 9000 RPM's. HOWEVER! It IS needed for power up current draw that can exceed 25 amps for a short duration."
"HEI draw at idle, depending on the coil used, runs about 3.5 to 4.0 amps average at idle speeds, and lowers considerably as the engine rpms rise. As the amount of charge time between firing intervals of the coil decrease, the loading also decreases. At idle, there is a large amount of charge time, so the ampere draw is higher, as rpms increase, time between charge intervals decreases, so does the amperage draw.
I have seen as low as 1.8 amperes charge draw in a good HEI at above 9,000 rpms."
End Quotes
I need to design a plug and play kit for the DUI dizzy upgrade. Battery to relay through a small fusible link, trigger the relay with the OEM ignition hot wire.... Time is the enemy....
Here is a re-post from a Chevy forum about HEI current draw in the cap in coil dizzy: I take no responsibility for the content!
Start Quotes:
" HEI systems surge upon first power up, some as much as 25+ amperes. For a SHORT amount of time!"
"HEI ignition systems should NEVER be fused. Why? Due to the large inrush current, figuring out the correct fuse to use would be difficult. A fusible link would be the preferred way to protect this circuit. A larger wire gauge really isn't needed to supply the HEI with adequate amperes to operate as it only pulls about 4 amps while idling and about 2 amps when running at 9000 RPM's. HOWEVER! It IS needed for power up current draw that can exceed 25 amps for a short duration."
"HEI draw at idle, depending on the coil used, runs about 3.5 to 4.0 amps average at idle speeds, and lowers considerably as the engine rpms rise. As the amount of charge time between firing intervals of the coil decrease, the loading also decreases. At idle, there is a large amount of charge time, so the ampere draw is higher, as rpms increase, time between charge intervals decreases, so does the amperage draw.
I have seen as low as 1.8 amperes charge draw in a good HEI at above 9,000 rpms."
End Quotes
I need to design a plug and play kit for the DUI dizzy upgrade. Battery to relay through a small fusible link, trigger the relay with the OEM ignition hot wire.... Time is the enemy....
Ok so this is what I have gathered from the last couple messages. For the DUI dizzy wiring, I should not use the #13 wire since it is not thick enough and instead I should use the 12ga wire #4 due to the amp spike when you start the vehicle. To do it right, I need to get a relay, run #4 to the relay, a direct feed from battery to the relay w/ a fuseable link and then run a 12ga wire the red dizzy wire. The dizzy wire is only about 16-18ga from what I can tell. Is this an issue? What kind of relay do I need to get? I don't have the pink wire coolerman mentioned and I do have both 3 and 4 on the chart.
Let me know if you want me to start a new thread on this.
Let me know if you want me to start a new thread on this.
