fj40 differential ID (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 12, 2017
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4
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Location
Santiago, Chile
I just bought an FJ40 in Chile. I'm in the process of trying figure out just exactly I bought. I decided to change the differential fluid and came across something I thought was interesting. I think this rear diff is a DANA 35, but the cover appears to be attached with with screws instead of bolts. Does this seem right? I thought the dana 35 cover was attached with bolts.

This fj40 has a 2h diesel engine, so the whole drive line could have been swapped from a later model.

And, can anyone help me identify the front diff?


Thanks,

Griff

rear_diff1.jpg


rear_diff2.jpg


rear_diff3.jpg


front_diff1.jpg


front_diff2.jpg
 
That's Cruiser studs and nuts
 
Nope, that's a standard Toyota differential. If the cover is held on by bolts it's because somebody removed the studs and swapped them out. Nothing Dana 35 about that....
 
Uhhh, 9.5" or so, the shape of the differential and the axle is the dead give away here....
 
And it will have a "drop out" removable 3rd member just like a Ford 9" axle. Look at the pinion side of the axle and you'll see the 10 8x1.25mm studs and nuts holding the differential in place
 
The diff is leaking badly so i was planning to replace the RTV gasket. I had a scout in the past with Dana 44's. Land Cruisers are new to me.

Is there anything i should be concerned about of i take these bolts off, replace the gaskets (RTV) snd put it all back together?

I'm in Chile with limited tools; almost everything is back in the States. I do have a torque wrench though! :)

--Griff
 
Where are you in Chile? I would recommend getting in touch with Gonzalo Bravo. He's a Cruiser guy gear head.
 
If it's just the rear cover that you are taking off, it is no big deal. The cover is only there so you can access the rear axle c-clips in order to remove the semi-float axles. Simply remove the nuts and gently pry off the cover - it shouldn't be too hard seeing as how it is leaking so badly. Clean it up with some parts cleaner / brake cleaner. Make sure your cover isn't warped or the holes ovaled out, if so gently beat it back into shape. Put your gasket on. Torque the nuts down 7-12 lbs per the FSM. Refill with your favorite 90wt oil. Done!

Edit - remember to check the nuts for tightness after about a week of driving. They tend to loosen up at first.
 
If your cruiser was made before 8/80 it's likely rear cover has been replaced with a later one. The little tab in the middle is for securing the hand brake cable. I have few post 8/80 rear axles and all hvet that piece even a 84 full floater from a HJ47 that had the hand brake on the T case not the rear axle.
 
The little tab in the middle is for securing the hand brake cable. I have few post 8/80 rear axles and all hvet that piece even a 84 full floater from a HJ47 that had the hand brake on the T case not the rear axle.

My cruiser has disc brakes all around. I haven't checked the parking brake to see how well it works but i certainly didnt see the disc parking break conversion on the t-case.
 
it looks more like the pinion seal is leaking more than anything else.....not the flange seals.

This could be a real PITA; getting auto parts seems practically impossibe here. Is it possible that diff fluid is leaking from the pinion seal? I'll take a closer look tonight.
 
And i also spend my weekends in Valparaiso.

Small world. He lives in Valparaiso and works in Santiago. I will on you his email. My wife and I came down a couple years ago and spent a fair amount of time with him. Great guy.
 
PM sent, Gonzalo will be able to help you source parts.
 
Best of luck with your "new" cruiser. Being in a place where cruisers are not as well supported means you will need to sharpen your ingenuity, and I would bet that with a little bit of help it won't take you long to be a pro at that.

Do you have a pressure washer available to you? Also, a wire brush, putty knife, screw driver, gasket scraper, etc can be very helpful along with some kind of solvent. The more volatile/flammable the solvent is the more careful you will have to be with any spark or flame. The idea is to get that differential clean enough, and drive it for a while, to be able to tell where the leak is coming from.

Don
 
Do you have a pressure washer available to you? Also, a wire brush, putty knife, screw driver, gasket scraper, etc can be very helpful along with some kind of solvent. The more volatile/flammable the solvent is the more careful you will have to be with any spark or flame. The idea is to get that differential clean enough, and drive it for a while, to be able to tell where the leak is coming from.

Don

Thanks. Almost all of my tools are in the US, but i need to start building up a cache here. Tonight, hopefully, I'll be sending my FJ to a shop to get some suspension work done. After that, i can clean things up a bit and sort out this differential leak.

There are a few other things i have to sort out before winter in Santiago. I've only got one wiper... and it moves very slowly. Plus, the PO cut a hole in the fiberglass top that i need to get patched up.
 

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