Build Fixing the Patty 40 - Tilda Bogue Service Station

[wngrog]

Got all of the gaps filled in with 3M strip caulk. That with the heat shield should make for a nice coolish hump.

Time to build the interior back so I can fire this thing up

 

[desmocruiser]

So close!

 

[wngrog]

I like putting small pigtail leads on these hoses so you can easily remove this thing

SOR makes some pads. I always add some fluid film here unless it’s brand new paint

In. In. In.

 

[wngrog]

Interior is in.

Reran the Wizard. Got a running motor but I have the distributor in a tooth off. Can’t get the timing into the proper range due to the oil filter. That just means it needs to come out and go back in one position clockwise.

Back in a bit

 

[wngrog]

 

[wngrog]

Sorry to bail this close to driving it but I had ribs in the oven due at 6 so k bailed. Tomorrow after lunch I’ll have this thing ready to ease out of the shop.

 

[desmocruiser]

Sorry to bail this close to driving it but I had ribs in the oven due at 6 so k bailed. Tomorrow after lunch I’ll have this thing ready to ease out of the shop.

It would be unforgivable to let good Mississippi Ribs Overcook to start a truck, especially one that hasn’t run properly in almost a year!

Enjoy! The excitement can wait, to be continued!

 

[charliemeyer007]

Everything has its time.

 

[wngrog]

Running perfect with the distributor reclocked.

Now I have to pull this damn thing off again and add
Some rtv to the Lower gasket. Whistling Dixie

 

[knuckle47]

@wngrog are you referring to the throttle body when you say…take that thing off and reseal it? I am unusually surprised by two machined surfaces and a gasket not properly sealing a joint. In actuality, I watched your video on the red Texas FJ40 when you installed a Sniper in an and clearly described all of the potential areas for leakage…I rtv’ed every one and sealed the gaskets. I am still thankful for that awakening

 

[wngrog]

@wngrog are you referring to the throttle body when you say…take that thing off and reseal it? I am unusually surprised by two machined surfaces and a gasket not properly sealing a joint. In actuality, I watched your video on the red Texas FJ40 when you installed a Sniper in an and clearly described all of the potential areas for leakage…I rtv’ed every one and sealed the gaskets. I am still thankful for that awakening

Well I put gaskets on dry these days first and go back and goop it they leak. Makes it so much easier to deal with if it has to come apart.

 

[desmocruiser]

Well I put gaskets on dry these days first and go back and goop it they leak. Makes it so much easier to deal with if it has to come apart.

In my experience with the Sniper, dry is so much easier especially if you are using the Factory Toyota Insulator, diagnosing issues, and there is any likelihood of near term removal.

During rebuild I switched to the Red Line set up, I am interested in Nolen’s opinion on that set up.

 

[wngrog]

It was all smooth sailing until it wasn’t.


Got the vacuum leak fixed at the adapter and fired it up and what. The. ****.

Once it got to temp then the old issue popped up.

That’s the bad news



I did a smoke test and there are no external vacuum leaks.

Added the vacuum gauge and once it gets hot it goes haywire

 

[wngrog]

Good news is it can only be one thing. The only carry over from the past setup is the intake manifold.

It has to have an internal crack. No other thing it can be. It’s the last piece of mechanics that’s a hold over.

Well, except the thermo housing that’s leaking.

I let myself run out of Remflex so I had to order. But the bullet and cracked open the thermo to bleed out and dry up while I take a day away from this turd and regroup.

Forward.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Something is warping from the heat Quickly and lightly spray all gasket surfaces with WD40 with a pee tube.

 

[wngrog]

Something is warping from the heat Quickly and lightly spray all gasket surfaces with WD40 with a pee tube.

Agree. It’s not detectable externally.

Spraying carb cleaner won’t make anything happen. Gotta be a crack in the intake somewhere internal

If replacing the intake does not fix it I’m burning it.

 

[desmocruiser]

Good news is it can only be one thing. The only carry over from the past setup is the intake manifold.

It has to have an internal crack. No other thing it can be. It’s the last piece of mechanics that’s a hold over.

Well, except the thermo housing that’s leaking.

I let myself run out of Remflex so I had to order. But the bullet and cracked open the thermo to bleed out and dry up while I take a day away from this turd and regroup.

Forward.

View attachment 4180254

I think we (Nolen and my checkbook) may be closing in on the smoking gun that triggered this build process!

I guess the good news is when the original issue is pinpointed, someone will take home the betting pot created from multiple Mud posts on 2 different threads when everyone tossed in a guess and a $20 bill!

I am confident the issue will be discovered, resolved, and we will transition this baby from
Turd to Bada$$ status soon!

Stay tuned!!!

 

[charliemeyer007]

When it starts doing the vac drop bounce - I would whack the valves with a lead hammer in their line of action several times on the compression stroke while it is idling.

 

[desmocruiser]

When it starts doing the vac drop bounce - I would whack the valves with a lead hammer in their line of action several times on the compression stroke while it is idling.

To detect a potential valve train issue?

 

[charliemeyer007]

Valve seating is important to vac. Something could be going wrong when it heats up. Crud on sealing surface should be blown free by the compression. Any heat expanded burr might be knocked off/down by the impact.

Spray testing everything while acting up might produce different results than when everything is cold.