First FJ40 build in a long time (1 Viewer)

[Rainman]

Jim,

It's a '79 up and most likely an FJ60 with automatic. It's got enough crap all over it to confuse a Transformer. Geeze...
I'm certainly lost.

It runs on it's own after it's warm but still sounds a little rough. I haven't connected the solenoid wires yet. I'll need to get new connectors for it and a ground wire. Not a problem though.

I found the idle screw hiding the best it could under everything and tried bottoming to out (clockwise) so I could let it run and adjust but it was hard to get even a quarter turn to the right. Once running I tried to adjust the mix and it got rougher both ways. (I am not a carb specialist by any means and these steps could be done over with a pro and possibly get different results.)

Got it running again and checked the timing and the BB shows dead on but fluctuates with the uneven idle.

 

[Rainman]

But it sure was GREAT to let her legs out of the barn for the very first time! Not running well enough to drive it but close.
That Dune Beige looks great with the lush green backdrop.
AHHHHHHHH...


Couldn't resist the edit...

 

[FJ40Jim]

The carb is 81-87 FJ60 (w/AC).
It looks purty and was recently rebuilt.
Issues:
- The AP plunger is the wrong one, the too-tall 79-80 plunger. Rebuild with correct kit.
- The 81- carbs are shorter, so the aircleaner lid will not sit properly on the top of the carb. install taller carb or shorter valve cover & aircleaner.
- Vacuum advance hose is connected to HAC fitting. Move it to the fitting that is a little lower, angled to the rear.
- AC idle up pot is hooked to a vacuum source. Disconnect it. Better yet, remove the whole idle up mechanism.
- Hi-idle speed screw is missing. Install adjuster screw from AC idle up
- The PB vac fitting is open. Needs connected to booster.
- Non-stock fuel feed line looks like it will interfere with aircleaner.
- Missing fuel return line.
- Coolant temp sensor and heater nipple are reversed (not critical, just FYI)

 

[Rainman]

Issues:
- The AP plunger is the wrong one, the too-tall 79-80 plunger. Rebuild with correct kit.
Are you saying this carb needs to be rebuilt? I sure hope not.

- The 81- carbs are shorter, so the aircleaner lid will not sit properly on the top of the carb. install taller carb or shorter valve cover & air cleaner.
I don't care about the stock air cleaner. I just need an air cleaner. ANY air cleaner. Neither truck had one.

- Vacuum advance hose is connected to HAC fitting. Move it to the fitting that is a little lower, angled to the rear.
Will do!

- AC idle up pot is hooked to a vacuum source. Disconnect it. Better yet, remove the whole idle up mechanism.
Um. What's that?

- Hi-idle speed screw is missing. Install adjuster screw from AC idle up
Will do as soon as I understand what's what.

- The PB vac fitting is open. Needs connected to booster.
Roger. I hope I can figure out which one that is too...

- Non-stock fuel feed line looks like it will interfere with air cleaner.
See above.

- Missing fuel return line.
The fuel line port is blocked off. Looks factory.

- Coolant temp sensor and heater nipple are reversed (not critical, just FYI)
My wire connector for the sensor wouldn't reach the other hole so I swapped them so it could reach.

 

[Rainman]

Is this the AC idle pot? In yeller...

Must've been. It's gone now...

 

[FJ40Jim]

Yep, remove the yellow stuff.

Repurpose the 'yellow' adjuster screw into the empty threaded hole in the carb linkage on the rear of the carb.

 

[Rainman]

There are still some things to work out on this and time's ticking'...

But finally the inaugural drive was yesterday and @adistler1 got a ride along. These shots are of the farm down the street. (I love living out in the country.)

 

[FJ40Jim]

Is the Idle Cut Solenoid connected to power & ground now? That needs done to get any sort of idle quality. Polarity at the ICS doesn't matter. The original '77 ICS green plastic connector should be dangling on the driver fenderwell. It is a single black wire that shows +12V KOEO.

 

[Rainman]

Ooooh, thanks. I've been wondering if the polarity mattered. I WILL, Lord willing, get that connected today. You're the man, I need those types if instructions once I get into the engine compartment. Hey, I'm not shy, that's the area where I start loosing some of my Cruiser smarts and experience.

 

[Rainman]

Second outing with the Cruiser. Running a bit better just a few more tweaks most likely and when I tried to turn around... Ran out of gas in a neighbor's driveway. Crap! Add gas from the house. Nothing. More gas, nothing. I'll be dipped, fuel pump died.

So I stole the nice electric pump of the '32 Ford and put it under the Cruiser. Just need to wire the hot lead up tomorrow.

Each day... Two steps forward, one step back.

Here's the front of the "Cruiser factory."

 

[Rainman]

WOw. I just noticed that today makes one year on this truck. My goal was MUCH less than a year but oh well. At least I'm beating @Vae Victus

 

[Vae Victus]

That's what I was figuring. I'll check and see if I can figure out the ground wire and make new connections. I'll have to remove both existing plugs.

Thanks!

You could just temporarily wire it - run a strand of wire between the harness and the carb connector (shove the bare end into the plug on the hot side of the carb connector, hook the other end into the male spade from the harness) just to make the connection. Make a temp ground too if you must. Just see if that is the issue.

Crap. Never mind. Missed your update.

Hey b!tch - I get 6 hours every two weeks. You were going 6 hours a day.

I'm about to be a sand blastin' fool - so look out!

I could still catch you at this rate.

 

[Vae Victus]

Second outing with the Cruiser. Running a bit better just a few more tweaks most likely and when I tried to turn around... Ran out of gas in a neighbor's driveway. Crap! Add gas from the house. Nothing. More gas, nothing. I'll be dipped, fuel pump died.

So I stole the nice electric pump of the '32 Ford and put it under the Cruiser. Just need to wire the hot lead up tomorrow.

Did you hook it to the fender?

 

[Rainman]

Did you hook it to the fender?

ABSOLUTELY NOT! NEver will I mount a pump to the fender. Only to the frame. It's hooked up and running now and quiet as a mouse.

 

[adistler1]

The inaugural ride was fantastic. @Rainman has built an amazing truck. Everything I want mine to be. It even smelled like a new car!

 

[Rainman]

Thanks Aaron. It was a fun outing in spite of the leftovers.

Well, another problem with the purchases of the PO SOB:
The apparently "new" brake hoses up front were clogged. Replaced. Brakes work great now.
The "new" alternator appears to be worthless. Still trying to assess that one.
The freshly rebuilt carb off a 60 won't open the secondary barrel. A one barrel carb on a brand new 2F engine is depressing. Top speed... 40ish.

The engine runs great. It's got great oil pressure. No leaks. All seems good except the lack of power from the carb.

The Mrs. comes tomorrow. I'm hoping to give her a nice ride but I'd hate to show off a gutless Cruiser. Wish me luck. Better yet, pray for a cure!

 

[Rainman]

The freshly rebuilt carb off a 60 won't open the secondary barrel. A one barrel carb on a brand new 2F engine is depressing. Top speed... 40ish.

The engine runs great. It's got great oil pressure. No leaks. All seems good except the lack of power from the carb.

The Mrs. comes tomorrow. I'm hoping to give her a nice ride but I'd hate to show off a gutless Cruiser. Wish me luck. Better yet, pray for a cure!

I may have located the problem with the carb. I pulled of the big diaphragm and found this:

@FJ40Jim, what do you think? Is that enough to create a leak that loses the vacuum?

 

[FJ40Jim]

It could be. I can't really tell from the pic, is there a cut in the rubber diaphragm? Was there FOD at the gasket surface?

That's great news that the 77 alternator is worthless. Simplify & improve the charging system by dropping in a solid state, internal regulator 81-87 alternator. They start around $60 at rockauto.com.

 

[Rainman]

New test drive and things are definitely looking up. After "2 steps forward, one step back" days for about a week or so, the list finally shortens. The spring on the rear of this mind boggingly complicated carb that does something... Was overpowering the front spring on the 2nd butterfly shaft. I moved it and got instant power. I still have a little lag but the 2nd barrel has finally opened "Wiv got pow'r cap'm!"

Today was D-Day but I may have gotten a reprieve. No word from the Mrs. yet.
Post engine running check list:
Brakes - all adjusted and counted for including replacing seemingly new hoses. One last shakedown bleed and they're done. Check.
Speedo cable - Broke down and cut the damn tabs off the cluster and presto, miles-per-hour. Check.
Keep putting some miles on it and keep tweaking the adjustments. (without truck failure.) Check... sort of.
Ignore that blasted Land Cruiser lean and see if it goes away. HA! CHECK!

 

[FJ40Jim]

The secondary closer spring on the back is supposed to be forced out of the way by the linkage. If it was holding the sec. shut at WOT, then the carb is assembled wrong.

Is the alternator charging the battery yet?