Fine Lines

gregnash

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Awesome! What guns are you using again? What was your spray settings? Now the fun begins of having to go over the primer with 320grit to prep for you base!
 

rghouse

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Most updates on this paint job are here:
Cement gray 80

But here is a rundown of progress for this thread with input/experience from this noob painter.

So the door jambs went Just about flawless and I was encouraged. When I went for the roof, tailgate, and hood I got orange peel and bad dust chunks ( I set up a fan with an a/c filter to keep dust down—bad idea). The ambient temp was too low, and my gun was malfunctioning, including a dirty nozzle I think. I’m now soaking the gun in carb cleaner after everything.Pretty rough go of it altogether.

Sanding it out went well (400 as per man. Rec.) waiting for 70 degree day and will super-hard-core test my gun before shooting anything on the truck. Also, bought the lower temp activator (60 degree) and believe it was a little harder to work with. Believe my strokes were a bit fast too. Good learning experience, just extending the project.

Paint is PPG Delfleet essentials, a single-stage polyurethane. It has to be cleaned up with acetone, not paint thinner! Oops. Very liquid, non-viscous, mixes 6:1:1.

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gregnash

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Nice work @ryan greathouse we all experience stuff like this and it is all a learning process. I have a rear door that I am going to have to redo part of because for some reason I apparently did not scuff the window sill well enough and have a few places that have lifted and chipped. Aside from that I also apparently decided that I didn't want to truly paint the whole b-pillar at that time and have some small pin hole bubbles and whatnot that need to be worked out.
 

rghouse

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Ya I was pretty bummed, but this has basically happened at every step, at least it is completely fixable.

Awesome! What guns are you using again? What was your spray settings? Now the fun begins of having to go over the primer with 320grit to prep for you base!
Sorry I didn’t see this sooner—I am using the sprayit package set from Amazon (80$ about)for LVLP, 3300 or 3500 I think. used the 2.0 nozzle for primer and 1.7 for first coats of Delfleet. I’m actually going to try the 1.3 nozzle next Finish coat (bumper) because it’s brand new. I have some paint stuck in my 1.7. Need a new one or hopefully the smaller nozzle works. I had trouble with cleanup initially and screwed my 1.7. The delfleet paint is rec 1.3-1.7 so im ok there.

As far As settings go I try and do as much paint as possible as wide as possible as high pressure as possible at the gun but neck down the amount of air that comes out about 1/3. It is really a crap shoot and every time it seems a little different. Probably because temps, paints, and human error have varied every time. Time span b/w painting sessions doesn’t help either
 

rghouse

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That is what the local body shop recommended.

It is a polyurethane paint. Thinner doesn’t touch it. Never heard of gun cleaner, and didn’t know I could use reducer. Please elaborate....
 

Splangy

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That is what the local body shop recommended.

It is a polyurethane paint. Thinner doesn’t touch it. Never heard of gun cleaner, and didn’t know I could use reducer. Please elaborate....
I’ve never had a problem cleaning up polys (Delfleet included) using a urethane reducer.
 
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S4Cruiser

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I’ve also not had issues cleaning up single stage urethane with typical paint cleanup liquids. I’ll have to check but I either use mineral spirits or acetone for it all...guns, paint mixing cups, etc.

Dust sucks for sure, but part of the painting process, especially if you aren’t in a professional and well tuned booth. I built a home made booth and was able to eventually figure out a good process...turn on fans, wet floor, place panels, tack...get suited up, mix paint, enter booth, tack final time.

Ironically the smoothest part (40 series gas tank) I’ve painted was after I disassembled my booth and did it out in the driveway on a very still evening.

For minor dust pieces, a nib file works good.
 
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gregnash

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Yeah if you go back to your paint shop they should be able to sell you an actual gun cleaner solvent. Most professional shops have a dedicated sink that runs this stuff through their guns along with water to rinse. When I was messing with the rust-o-leum I ended up having to use mineral spirits and acetone to clean everything up. That was a nasty process.
 

rghouse

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PPG reccommmends Acetone, works well for parts I can get too but inside the nozzle on gun (plastic gasket and spinning part where paint flows just before exiting the gun) is not reachable so requires a soak or running solution through gun I guess.

Got a 65 degree day tomorrow with little to no wind and am going for it--final coat on all panels. Will heat up the tent to 80+ while Im getting ready so I will be above 70 on all surfaces by paint time. Hopefully a shiny Stone Gray 80 will come out the other side of this long tunnel of paint and body work.
 

rghouse

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Victory! not perfect but glad to finally lay down the finish coat. Will need to buff out a few runs, peel spots, and where I bumped it (tight quarters). Hood required much slower strokes and thicker coat to flow.
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gregnash

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Damn looks really good ryan! Good Job on it. Now to wait for it to cure and see it out in the daylight!
 
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