Figured I'd join in on the fun - '88 FJ62 (1 Viewer)

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May 15, 2017
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Developed a strange high idle conveniently after I spent some time on Sunday checking the resistance on the TPS pins per the FSM. I circled around and around again trying to figure out what I had done to cause this issue and I kept coming up with a blank. Finally I decided to remove the TPS itself to inspect it which turned into a huge pain in the ass since you either have to remove the throttle body or the IACV to access the TPS. I opted to unbolt the IACV and pull it away from the manifold while it was still attached to it's hoses and of course ended up slightly tearing the ancient gasket in the process. When I finally got the TPS off, I could tell immediately that it was gummed up and not returning to it's "home" position. After going to the dealership to order and new IACV gasket and TPS, I realized that the TPS may actually not be bad so I sprayed a small amount of penetrating oil inside and spun it back and forth until it freed up. Now after reinstalling the TPS (and the IACV using the ripped gasket in the interim) the trucks idle has settled back down although a little lower than I would like it.
The next time this comes up I have decided that I will either take the throttle body off and make adjusting the TPS easier on myself, or hire a child to climb in the engine bay to put the thickness gauges on the throttle stop.....what a nightmare!!!!
 

ToyotaMatt

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Developed a strange high idle conveniently after I spent some time on Sunday checking the resistance on the TPS pins per the FSM. I circled around and around again trying to figure out what I had done to cause this issue and I kept coming up with a blank. Finally I decided to remove the TPS itself to inspect it which turned into a huge pain in the ass since you either have to remove the throttle body or the IACV to access the TPS. I opted to unbolt the IACV and pull it away from the manifold while it was still attached to it's hoses and of course ended up slightly tearing the ancient gasket in the process. When I finally got the TPS off, I could tell immediately that it was gummed up and not returning to it's "home" position. After going to the dealership to order and new IACV gasket and TPS, I realized that the TPS may actually not be bad so I sprayed a small amount of penetrating oil inside and spun it back and forth until it freed up. Now after reinstalling the TPS (and the IACV using the ripped gasket in the interim) the trucks idle has settled back down although a little lower than I would like it.
The next time this comes up I have decided that I will either take the throttle body off and make adjusting the TPS easier on myself, or hire a child to climb in the engine bay to put the thickness gauges on the throttle stop.....what a nightmare!!!!


also Bryson ,

TOYOTA TPS's and Throttle Body's Don't like Carburetor Cleaner, Brake Klean or Aerosol Engine De-greaser

ONLY ever use Real Dedicated throttle body / plate cleaner in this application , and new gaskets and o-rings as well OEM toyota parts as You well know

I swear by this stuff , from first generation EFI engines like u have all the way to my 2005 Tundra 4.7 DC 4WD


its sensor safe , especially for your TPS



1907674
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1907676
 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Charlotte, NC
also Bryson ,

TOYOTA TPS's and Throttle Body's Don't like Carburetor Cleaner, Brake Klean or Aerosol Engine De-greaser

ONLY ever use Real Dedicated throttle body / plate cleaner in this application , and new gaskets and o-rings as well OEM toyota parts as You well know

I swear by this stuff , from first generation EFI engines like u have all the way to my 2005 Tundra 4.7 DC 4WD


its sensor safe , especially for your TPS



View attachment 1907674View attachment 1907675View attachment 1907676

I'm not sure I would use that on the actual sensor since it says directly on the can not to use on sensitive plastics. This thing is literally all plastic inside minus the return spring. Everything I have read suggested just lubing the spring to free it up
 

ToyotaMatt

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I'm not sure I would use that on the actual sensor since it says directly on the can not to use on sensitive plastics. This thing is literally all plastic inside minus the return spring. Everything I have read suggested just lubing the spring to free it up


the term Sensor Safe refers to O2 sensors & Air Fuel sensors primarily

to clean your TPS retrun spring area , i would recommend this :

- its the Most delicate solvent i have ever come accross , it indeed will wipe away the GUM and Varnish deposits Gumming up your TPS ,

- I got grease and oil on a Really nice North Face full synthec teck-wick type t-shirt while back , and i used this to clean in off 100% before hitting the washing machine , that told me everything i needed to know for its potential future use applications , it Did Not melt or harm the delicate north face fabric in any way


- there is also electronic circuit board cleaner that is sensitive needs use safe also , and cuts gum and varnish well ,

its safe on ALL plastics ................ from my experience



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Joined
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Messages
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the term Sensor Safe refers to O2 sensors & Air Fuel sensors primarily

to clean your TPS retrun spring area , i would recommend this :

- its the Most delicate solvent i have ever come accross , it indeed will wipe away the GUM and Varnish deposits Gumming up your TPS ,

- I got grease and oil on a Really nice North Face full synthec teck-wick type t-shirt while back , and i used this to clean in off 100% before hitting the washing machine , that told me everything i needed to know for its potential future use applications , it Did Not melt or harm the delicate north face fabric in any way


- there is also electronic circuit board cleaner that is sensitive needs use safe also , and cuts gum and varnish well ,

its safe on ALL plastics ................ from my experience



View attachment 1907703View attachment 1907704View attachment 1907705View attachment 1907706
I'll keep this stuff in mind the next time I've got to take this TPS off. Literally just grabbed the closest thing to see if I could loosen it up and get it operational again
 
Joined
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Messages
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Since I got this thing home, i've had sort of a rough starting issue. Nothing crazy, but it definitely seemed like it took a few too many cranks and when it did catch, it was a little lumpy for a second. Had a little break today so I went out and paid my little friend the cold start injector a visit. I think I figured out why I had starting issues 🤣
Took all of ten minutes to remove/clean and the result is super satisfying
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Joined
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Since I got this thing home, i've had sort of a rough starting issue. Nothing crazy, but it definitely seemed like it took a few too many cranks and when it did catch, it was a little lumpy for a second. Had a little break today so I went out and paid my little friend the cold start injector a visit. I think I figured why I had starting issues 🤣
Took all of ten minutes to remove/clean and the result is super satisfying
View attachment 1908431View attachment 1908432
INSPIRATIONAL!
Was the gasket re-usable?
 

ToyotaMatt

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GASKET, COLD START INJECTOR
2329342010 Product Image View GASKET,  COLD START INJECTOR Full-Sized Product Image View GASKET,  COLD START INJECTOR Full-Sized Product Image View GASKET,  COLD START INJECTOR Full-Sized Product Image View GASKET,  COLD START INJECTOR Full-Sized Product Image View GASKET,  COLD START INJECTOR Full-Sized Product Image
Part Number: 2329342010
Supersession(s): 2329374010


The FSM states it is Not Reusable ......
 
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Installed a new OEM fuel filter today just to stay with the theme of replacing general maintenance items so that I absolutely know the condition of said parts. It helps me sleep at night!!

After that, I finally decided to install the OEM radio. This was the first time I have ever taken a 60 series dash apart and all I can say is wow....I felt like I was performing surgery or something because those dash panels are pretty flimsy and brittle. I took a lot of extra time and care to make sure I didn't crack or break anything. Good news is I got it all back together and everything works which is a big bonus. I even installed an Amazon special bluetooth tuner which seems to work very well so far. Oh and course my boy Simcoe had to make sure the back of the 62 was comfortable
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ToyotaMatt

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That Modle # 5635 Factory Toyota Matsushita Communication Brand Radio is in Like New Condition !

it must have been Removed many years ago by the PO , and put in Climate Controlled Storage ,

WOW ! what a Unicorn time Capsule u have there ,
Even all the Green LED Illumination bulbs Still Burn Bright ......


Great Score
 
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Charlotte, NC
Well its official, my Tacoma sold this past Saturday so my new daily driver is now the FJ62. Just in time for it's introduction to the real world, the brake master cylinder reservoir hose decided to crack and start leaking. New brake master should be here today if all goes well. Looks like I will be driving the FJ40 with a dying clutch in the meantime :rolleyes:

I also added a constantly evolving to do list to my initial post here. I'm open to suggestions for any preventative maintenance or absolute must have fixes/mods that I don't have listed or currently don't know about!

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roadstr6

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Well its official, my Tacoma sold this past Saturday so my new daily driver is now the FJ62. Just in time for it's introduction to the real world, the brake master cylinder reservoir hose decided to crack and start leaking. New brake master should be here today if all goes well. Looks like I will be driving the FJ40 with a dying clutch in the meantime :rolleyes:

I also added a constantly evolving to do list to my initial post here. I'm open to suggestions for any preventative maintenance or absolute must have fixes/mods that I don't have listed or currently don't know about!

View attachment 1915186
There is quite a bit of adjustment in the FJ40 clutch linkage. Are you sure it's bad and not just needing adjustment? Worth a check.

Might want to add a transmission cooler to your list if you haven't already.
 
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Joined
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There is quite a bit of adjustment in the FJ40 clutch linkage. Are you sure it's bad and not just needing adjustment? Worth a check.

Might want to add a transmission cooler to your list if you haven't already.
You read my mind Dave. Planning on doing a little adjusting to the clutch slave here shortly to see how it goes. Also, I did actually already buy a transmission cooler although i'm not sure if I should keep it or exchange it. It has an electric fan on it
 
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Well my brother in law was in town for a couple of days and he told me to keep him busy since he's normally always on the go with work and kids. We did a full water pump job on my 40 including all new hoses, clamps, cleaning/painting parts, new clutch/fan, etc.
After that we jumped over to the 62 and were able to fully bleed/flush the brakes, drop the trans pan to inspect, and he even got around to cleaning up my hood quite a bit.

I was surprised to see that the inside of the transmission looked to be pristine and even the pan/filter/fluid were in great shape. I cleaned out a few specs from the filter and replaced the pan gasket and fluid.
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So the previous owner told me that the clear coat on the hood started flaking years back. His solution was a DIY respray that was completely lacking in all aspects. My brother in law is a paint/body guy so we took the hood off and he worked his magic for a few hours. Even though it is still not perfect, it is absolutely a night and day difference.

Before:
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After:
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Joined
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Charlotte, NC
Been a while since my last update. I've really just been driving the 62 around and enjoying the hell out of it. Although I do plan on doing a lift/larger tires eventually, there's definitely something to be said about driving one of these things around in stock form.

Ever since I pulled the TPS, cleaned it, and recalibrated it, I have still had a nagging issue with the idle speed while in Drive. Sitting at stoplights is borderline torture and watching my loose drivers mirror shake around usually doesn't make things any better. Also, I feel like I may need some new engine/trans mounts, but that's for a different day. BTW, if anyone knows how to get a new OEM replacement/solid aftermarket transmission mount, I am all ears!

Well after my last run-in with the TPS, I ended up purchasing a brand new Toyota unit along with a throttle body gasket which have both been sitting on the shelf waiting their turn to be installed. I finally had a little down time this afternoon and decided to just take the plunge and get everything knocked out. Taking the throttle body off with a little more difficult that I thought it was going to be mostly because of those annoying coolant lines running into the bottom of it. Once I had everything off, I gave the throttle body a good cleaning, installed/calibrated the new TPS, threw a new gasket on, and reinstalled everything. I have to say, the idle speed is much better now and I definitely don't get rattled around near as much now which is a definite win in my book.

As usual, I am not the best at taking pictures of every step along the way, but you get the idea. My BIGGEST gripe about the 60 series thus far is that the hood does not open completely vertical like the one on my 40 does. It always makes for an awkward and expletive filled experience when I have to do most anything under the hood on this thing!!!

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Keep up the good work! I'm following along as it's always fun for me to see folks working out the minor little bugs and get things back to baseline. I think you had a pretty attentive owner maintenance-wise as I'd guess he stayed on top of regular ATF fluid changes. It looked really good in there.

Just curious, what makes you think you need new engine and transmission mounts?
 

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