Fairy overdrive delete

[Coolcam]

Alright I know this has been posted countless times but I swear I have searched through every post from this site and others and not founderstand my answer. I have a stock 1980 fj40 4 speed with the fairy (fairey) overdrive. My o/d crapped out. All I want to do is remove the od and get her back on the road. If anyone has schematics or instructions on how to remove this it would be wonderful.
*I can post pics/vids if needed*

 

[Living in the Past]

Not to hard if your 80 is pre 8/80 and not a 8/80 and later which is a 81 model with a split transfer case. Those require tearing the whole transfer case apart.

 

[78fj40mg]

This all the info I was able to find, hope it helps you.

 

[Coolcam]

Not to hard if your 80 is pre 8/80 and not a 8/80 and later which is a 81 model with a split transfer case. Those require tearing the whole transfer case apart.

It's pre 8/80

 

[Coolcam]

This all the info I was able to find, hope it helps you.

Thanks bro I'll see what I can do. I'm not seeing how to remove the plug that everyone seems to refer to in other forum posts. It's inside the shaft and takes a 1/2 in drive. I seen it in there but have no clue on how to take it out and from what I read that's important to the process

 

[Living in the Past]

Pretty simple. Remove the six bolt and drop the lower section. Then remove the back cap. Believe there are threaded holes to use a jacking bolts. It will have a cage bearing on it. Use a 1/2" drive and force the special nut with the thread on the outside off. Fish out the plate between that nut and the one that threads onto the tailshaft of the transmission. Then remove the second nut. Pretty sure at this point remove the five stock bolts that hold the T case to the transmission. Two of those bolts are under the PTO or plate used when it doesn't have a PTO.It should be possible to pull the T case off the transmission. Unbolt the four nuts and two bolts that hold the overdrive onto the T case. Once those are out you need to remove the seal and look for the C clip that holds the input gear in place. Now the overdrive should slide out and piece left inside should come out the PTO opening. Double nut the four studs on the back of the transfer case and you should be able to get the four studs. I'm looking for those studs if your overdrive is trashed. Try this and see how it works. Going from memory.

As for that 1/2" drive it needs to be forced off. If in the vehicle keep the transmission on reverse and use a impact wrench. That plate behind it is a special lock with two pin into that nut and a punch was used to lock it into the 1/2" in the nut in front of it.

 

[Coolcam]

Pretty simple. Remove the six bolt and drop the lower section. Then remove the back cap. Believe there are threaded holes to use a jacking bolts. It will have a cage bearing on it. Use a 1/2" drive and force the special nut with the thread on the outside off. Fish out the plate between that nut and the one that threads onto the tailshaft of the transmission. Then remove the second nut. Pretty sure at this point remove the five stock bolts that hold the T case to the transmission. Two of those bolts are under the PTO or plate used when it doesn't have a PTO.It should be possible to pull the T case off the transmission. Unbolt the four nuts and two bolts that hold the overdrive onto the T case. Once those are out you need to remove the seal and look for the C clip that holds the input gear in place. Now the overdrive should slide out and piece left inside should come out the PTO opening. Double nut the four studs on the back of the transfer case and you should be able to get the four studs. I'm looking for those studs if your overdrive is trashed. Try this and see how it works. Going from memory.

As for that 1/2" drive it needs to be forced off. If in the vehicle keep the transmission on reverse and use a impact wrench. That plate behind it is a special lock with two pin into that nut and a punch was used to lock it into the 1/2" in the nut in front of it.

Okay now I understand. I have done a few things out of order but I think I've got it. I can send you these studs once I have them removed. In return can send me in the right place for a block off plate now that the od will be removed or tell me what the correct name is do I can find one.

 

[Living in the Past]

This all the info I was able to find, hope it helps you.

Just noticed I think ever picture except for may the second to the last one appear to be a Land Rover and not a Land Cruiser.

In my description I refer to pins in that plate when it really just tabs stamped into it. This is a one time use designed to be replaced like stake nut.

 

[mtn2roady]

Can't get the back end off my fairey I pressed it off as far as I could, now wedged against back of body panel ( see pic) any other ideas for getting this thing out other than cutting?

 

[Coolcam]

Can't get the back end off my fairey I pressed it off as far as I could, now wedged against back of body panel ( see pic) any other ideas for getting this thing out other than cutting?

View attachment 1254527

View attachment 1254529

Man I couldn't tell you, mine pretty much broke it self off, also the genius that put it in years ago "modded" my gas tank so it appears I have more room than you down there

 

[bikersmurf]

would it help it you loosened/removed the front motor mounts and used a jack with a block on top of it to lift he front of the motor? (or the opposite and lower the belhousing)

 

[Coolcam]

That seems like a lot of work for something behind the transfercase. I think his best bet would be to drop the tank and use some sort of puller.

 

[Living in the Past]

I would loosen the front motor mounts. Then put a jack under the front of the transmission. Remove the back motor mounts completely and then lower the transmission. Sounds like a lot of work be the overdrive was not meant to be used on the 79/80 model FJ40. Have to do this to my 68 FJ40 with a four speed for the same reason. Wasn't designed for a four speed.

 

[mtn2roady]

good inputs, I decided based on the work involved to cut. Forgive the many pics but I'm hoping to archive pictorially what living in the past and mark have been saying on proper removal. First pick is a lip I cut back on body to get the rear plate and bearing off here's process of removal based on the good stuff already posted:
1) drain remove bottom of fairly. See my pic, now I know why she was "singing" in high
2) remove 6 bolts on back of plate to rear of fairey. Note pic, I had to shave the lip of body by about an inch to get it out.
3) stick long 1/2 drive extension into center of gears and unscrew it whole rear minue shift fork and front gear can be fished out through rear plate now
4) remove 2 internal black bolts inside fairey that are easily visible from underneath, the remove the 3 nuts above unit. Yes, these are nuts
5) here's where I'm a bit confused on some of the posts, some indicate the clip holding input gear can be removed through the pot access port and other posts indicate transmission must be separated from tcase to get to retaining c clip. Any help here would be great

 

[mtn2roady]

1st pic, teeth damage
2nd,where I'm at rite now after removal of half inch drive
3rd, what comes out after fishing the half inch drive out back of fairey
4th, lip cut back after rear plate wedged against body

 

[mtn2roady]

Made some progress so here's some pics after transfer case drained and bolts removed. Unit slides in and out by about a 1/2 inch. Any ideas on next step?

 

[mtn2roady]

With fairey and pto acces port note first pic closed and next pic with fairey slid to rear

 

[Living in the Past]

With fairey and pto acces port note first pic closed and next pic with fairey slid to rear

You need to remove the C clip at the front end of the transfer case The overdrive and transfer case will not come apart until you do. If your lucky undoing the five bolts that hold the transfer case to the transmission you might be able to get to the C clip. Once that's off it will back slide apart. Not sure if you will have enough room to clear get it off without dropping the back down. I prefer removing the back motor mounts. Not as easy as the front motor mounts but move the pivot point to the front making easy to drop the back down further.

If your not going to reuse the the overdrive I would like the four studs used on the back of the transfer case. Still oping to get those at least from @Coolcam I have some parts for these overdrives but idler gear is not one of them. Only spare I have is worn where it rides on the roller bearing. Would require being machined and a sleeve pressed in.

 

[John Smith]

I posted this back around 2007 but I think it got lost when the Mud forum SW changed over. This is a scan of my Fairey instruction manual, it should help you greatly.

 

[Living in the Past]

I posted this back around 2007 but I think it got lost when the Mud forum SW changed over. This is a scan of my Fairey instruction manual, it should help you greatly.

It would be part #71 cir clip in the manual. Once that is removed the overdrive should just slide out if it has the room to slide back.

I believe I have the file that was posted later but may have before the forum change a few years ago. My paper copy is missing a couple of pages that I need to print once I get a working printer. Still a number of these old overdrives floating around. Just sent that file of the manual to another member this year as well as requests for parts. Currently would like to find a part for a member in Australia. He is looking for the spline piece that fits on the end of the transmission shaft.