Failed emissions test Colorado!

[DW2000]

Well here we go... A failed emissions test in Colorado on my 94'. I attached the results and let me know what you guys would do? A local shop told me to replace the cats (They dont work on Cruisers very often). Just FYI, I do have a idle problem with the truck and the check engine light is on. Would love to get little advice if someone could spare the time. Thanks for the help in advance. New to the Cruiser world and love it! Hopefully you guys can see the photos.

 

[Jasb]

Man I'm glad we don't have those in Texas. If the horn honks and blinkers work we re good to go. Good luck man.

 

[Romer]

Try this. Run your tank empty. Fill it with premium, add 2 bottles of heat and drive it 20 minutes to get it nice and warm. I know people who have done that with success to pass. They have tightened the requirements over the last few years making it tougher and tougher to pass

 

[rolliges]

Try this. Get the "check engine" codes and report back!

Edit: you have high NOx gases. Your code is prob PO410. Which means your EGR system is not working.

Looks for obvious vacuum hoses disconnected or cracked. Then learn about (search for) VSV for EGR.

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS]

You might want to check out the CEL code. I would suggest looking for a vacuum leak that would cause both your idle problem and your high NOx readings. How to? I lightly spray mists of starting fluid around the vacuum/intake hoses to try to get an increase in rpm's. Once the rpm's increase, you've found your leak.

 

[Ebag333]

How to? I lightly spray mists of starting fluid around the vacuum/intake hoses to try to get an increase in rpm's. Once the rpm's increase, you've found your leak.

A safer route is to use a propane torch (with the flame off, obviously). You can move it around and the vacuum leak will suck the propane in, causing the pitch of the engine to change.

If you use starting fluid, keep a fire extinguisher handy. It's not uncommon for the hot engine to ignite the starting fluid, causing a minor fire (that can get bad if not put out right away).


x2 on running premium through it.

 

[rockrod]

check the air intake hose from the mass air meter to the throttle body - they are notorious for cracking, which allows unmetered air into the motor and will cause it to stall and throw a code. Since it's unmetered air, the motor will run lean and bump your NOx up.

 

[hkl0000]

Tak it to auto zone to get the code frist, is free :-D , then we can know a little more

 

[blake_fzj80]

I think high NOX is caused by a malfunctioning EGR, or something along those lines.

Definitely get the code pulled and report back.

Another trick is to put a few gallons of E85 gas in there. That will cause it to run leaner. Some people use denatured alcohol. In your case, it might not help.

I bet it's a P0401 code.

 

[BirfMark]

Tak it to auto zone to get the code frist, is free :-D , then we can know a little more

It's a 94, which would be OBDI. Autozone & the other parts stores can only pull OBDII (usually 96 & up) codes.

 

[Rwhat]

Tak it to auto zone to get the code frist, is free :-D , then we can know a little more

1994 is not OBDII, I work with a ex California smog tech. He tells me to change my oil ahead of time to keep the HCs low and drive it on the highway to heat up the cats for better efficiency. Your NOX doesn't seem super high compare to the max. However I don't know how strict your state is on smog.

 

[Pin_Head]

As others have correctly noted, the EGR is the prime suspect because one of its main jobs is to reduce combustion temperatures and therefore NOx. The FSM has a trouble shooting guide, but you can start by pulling a vacuum on the line for the EGR valve at idle and check if it causes the engine to stall. If not, either the valve is stuck closed or the passage way in the manifold is plugged.

 

[ardentyota]

Register the truck in El Paso County. Done.

 

[yotakrawler]

There are two reasons why you could see increased NOx.

1. Temperature in the combustion chamber is higher than normal
-This could be caused by malfunctioning egr
-A vacuum leak causing a lean condition
-Over advanced ignition timing

2. Your Cats are not working correctly
-Possible exhaust leak causing air to enter before the cats
-Bad cats
-Bad O2 sensor

From what you are describing about poor idle I would say it is a good bet that the egr valve is bad. But, like others have said pull the code and that should point you in the right direction.

 

[western flyer]

Man I'm glad we don't have those in Texas. If the horn honks and blinkers work we re good to go. Good luck man.

Your horn has to work in Texas? How lame.

That being said, I have (and have had) a bunch of old vehicles, and these emissions tests make you fix your rigs. Yes, they are a PITA.

Nevertheless, the smog in Los Angeles used to be so bad my lungs would literally hurt after a day (70s-80s) in the LA basin. LA has more cars now, and the smog is not nearly as bad. These emissions requirements are largely responsible for the improved air quality (and associated health issues). And southern CA is not the only place with poor air quality.

Flame away, but these emissions requirements force repair of some poor running rigs (including my FJ-60). I can live with it.

 

[ikeedikeed]

Funny how gassers fail in Colorado for malfunctioning EGR. With my old diesel 4Runner, I failed in Vancouver, BC, for too high soot. The solution was to remove the EGR hose and plug the hole, specifically to INCREASE combustion temps to reduce the soot. For diesels in Vancouver, all they measure is exhaust opacity (soot) so they had no idea my NOx had shot through the roof.

After exam, put EGR hose back in. I did it every year until I sold the Runner and got my Cruiser.

 

[corsair23]

Colorado 80 series owners thread on failing emissions and what has worked to pass

Oh joy, P0401 is back... (and how 80's fail emissions) - Rising Sun Member Forums

 

[bcstoy]

If I read the report right you are failing only the NOx part. That is related to the EGR thus I would get the codes first. Ground the terminals E1 & T1 and with the key on you should see the MIL blinking. I suspect the codes are related to the EGR system. I would check the vacuum modulator to mak sure it is sending the signal to the EGR. Also apply vacuum to the EGR itself to make sure is moving freely. If you need to remove it you will need a big wrench (32mm) to remove the big nut holding the pipe. Be careful when removing it because the studs that hold the EGR need to be removed with a torx socket (size 8?). In mine the modulator was bad, note that its filter can be cleaned. I do not have the testing procedure at hand to test the modulator but the testing is outlined in page EG186 of the FSM. If you are up the task I could write the procedure later. I almost forgot changing the PCV valve often improves those readings, and of course having the regular maintenance done (plugs, air filter, cleaning the throttle blade). Avoid testing with a full tank and take the test with truck fully warmed.
The code for EGR is 71 (7 long blinks with 1 short 1)