Factory Subwoofer Info Guide (11 Viewers)
- Thread starter Murckman
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That’s some pre existing damping on the enclosure Tupperware. 12” will be tough the circular shape cutout is probably only 11” wide. The spacer for my 10” had to be trimmed to shape to fit.
yeah, a 12 may not work at all. Will try though. The 12 sub I'll try needs about 11-5/16" diameter cutout plus another 3/4" around for the mounting flange. Looks like no way to do without rebuilding much of the Tupperware piece in fiberglass - at least where the sub mounts.
Yes you could space up maybe 2” at the 10” size and then out for the 12”. To do this you have to cut the 12” into the rear trim panel and it would no longer be hidden behind the trim cover. If you’re glassing probably easier to glass the trim cover than the sub box.
Tremendous information. Thanks to everyone in the thread who added to the knowledge base.
Question - If I wanted to run just a monoblock amp to power a new 8" in the stock location, what did everyone do for a remote wire? Is there a good place to tap into for it back there? Thanks!@
Question - If I wanted to run just a monoblock amp to power a new 8" in the stock location, what did everyone do for a remote wire? Is there a good place to tap into for it back there? Thanks!@
A couple options - a) you could look for a signal sensing amplifier.
b) But since you have to run power for your amp, it's probably easiest to run the remote at the same time along with the positive.
If you do this, I suggest you put in a tap point (3 way distribution block) at the left rear (near the existing inverter) to plan for future power needs (drawers, lights, etc).
You'll be adding a tap point where the wires terminate at the amp/by the sub, so this way you will have 2 power locations at the rear.
b) But since you have to run power for your amp, it's probably easiest to run the remote at the same time along with the positive.
If you do this, I suggest you put in a tap point (3 way distribution block) at the left rear (near the existing inverter) to plan for future power needs (drawers, lights, etc).
You'll be adding a tap point where the wires terminate at the amp/by the sub, so this way you will have 2 power locations at the rear.
I've already ran a line for the powerwinch on my boat trailer. I was hoping to avoid going back and popping more panels to run a remote wire. I just bought the small 500w monoblock Soundstream so not sure it's signal sending
The signal sensing amps have worked well for me, both in my cruiser and previous cars. While you dont have to necessarily add, i think the improvement you get with a line out converter ahead of your amp is worth it. Audiocontrol LC2i for example, is a good piece that has the signal sense turn on you can then daisy to your amp.
Looks like exactly what I need. So one set of the factory sub lines will serve as signal input and signal sense, then just line out signal and the RCAs to my amp? Any issues with delays between songs of the LC2i cutting the signal to the amp and it clicking on and back off rapidly, or is there a delay?
Also, wouldn't I be fine with the LC1i? I only need one channel.
Yes, Accubass . . .
i had no idea they made an LC1i.... yeh man, thats all you need. I had the lc2i in my cruiser not too long ago (this was fed from a speaker level signal post factory amp) and i had no delay - worked well and night/day difference when you add an amp to that 8" sub. huge upgrade - with the right power/sub an 8" can give plenty of thump.
Thanks everyone. Got the 8" sub installed (Polk DB 842 DVC) and it doesn't seem to be any better. I know there is a break in period, but as you all have said, there is clearly a lack of power. I also got in my Soundstream amp and holy heck, the thing is 3"x3"! I guess I need to go ahead and order the AudioControl. I'll just spring for the LC2i if Accubass makes that much of a difference.
Has anyone had issue with mounting into the stock enclosure by drilling new holes? I reused the factory screws, but drilled new holes into the box since the sub ring holes didn't line up. I noticed at the factory location, there is a good bit of reinforcement and a screw channel behind each one. I hope once I add the amp and start bumping that it doesn't come loose easily.
Has anyone had issue with mounting into the stock enclosure by drilling new holes? I reused the factory screws, but drilled new holes into the box since the sub ring holes didn't line up. I noticed at the factory location, there is a good bit of reinforcement and a screw channel behind each one. I hope once I add the amp and start bumping that it doesn't come loose easily.
I drilled new holes in the sub itself on the flange to match the stock hole locations. Easy enough to do with the old sub as a template. I don’t think the plastic itself is enough for the new sub.
accubass is indeed all that. Also Consider flexibility as this install builds out, and other installs too if you move on to a new vehicle.
Drilling holes in the new sub is not an option as the overall diameter is smaller. I attempted to center it in the box when installing, and the way I knew it was centered is that the rim of the new sub lines up perfectly in the center of the old mounting holes all the way around. Otherwise, I would have indeed just drilled the new sub. I am not terribly worried about it long term. if the sub comes loose from the mounting points I could always look at fabbing a spacer/bracket or just buy a different sub.
- Thread starter
- #155
I’m curious why you chose the Polk 842 dual 4 ohm sub to run off the factory amp, or were you always intending to put in a separate amp? Amping it will make all the difference just make sure you sound deaden the enclosure or your sub will sound like it’s playing inside Tupperware.
I've always had good luck with Polk products, the reviews were good on Crutchfield, and it was on sale. Yes, I did always plan to add an external amp, I just wanted to go ahead and see how it performed in the stock enclosure. Truth be told, I could pretty easily just drop in a quick disconnect box with 2x 10". I already have a box left over from helping my nephew install a system in his SUV. I could use the LC2i tucked and a 2 channel amp, and run 1 channel to the factory sub with an inline switch, then when I want the box in the truck, just plug in the speaker wires to the external box and flip the switch to run all 2 channels to the box.
I say add an amp to the stock sub enclosure and give it a shot. Gone are the days (at least for me) where i needed 2 tens at a minimum. With the right sub and power and lc2i... you might be pleasantly surprised... i know i was...and was actually shocked how much output i could get out of my 8inch.
If possible, you could also try to future proof for changing musical needs and come up with a quick disconnect to the factory sub enclosure, which can be hooked up to an external box at any point in time. Theres something really great about having decent hidden bass.
I'm not going to mess with the big box and 2 10s now. I just put my Gun Vault back in and realized how much space that box would take up sitting on top of it. Plus anchoring it would be a pain. And you're right, I'm almost 36, so no need for that kind of bump.
Recommendations on what brand of sound dampening to buy and from where?
Recommendations on what brand of sound dampening to buy and from where?
I went with 80mm Noico brand from Amazon. Theres a lot of intel/reviews on it and it worked for me. No smell, easy to work with. I did all doors (full baked potato) and factory sub area
I also used 80mm Noico. 10ft easily covered the sub box. There was a couple feet left over, so I did some of the trim panel and the fender area. No full potato here. Definitely improved the sound.
