Factory Subwoofer Info Guide

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I can tell you from experience that the power specs are nowhere near what they claim. I cooked one in about 20 minutes.
Not worth it at all in my opinion.
For the price, the Alpine S2 will outperform the Kenwood in virtually every way imaginable (except sensitivity)
 
I can tell you from experience that the power specs are nowhere near what they claim. I cooked one in about 20 minutes.
Not worth it at all in my opinion.
For the price, the Alpine S2 will outperform the Kenwood in virtually every way imaginable (except sensitivity)
I also noted it was 4 ohm after posting. I know you already said, but are you running that on the factory amp?
 
For the LC200 wondering why these setups aren’t looking at expanding to include a CarPlay interface?

It changed the entire experience daily driving mine.
 
For the LC200 wondering why these setups aren’t looking at expanding to include a CarPlay interface?

It changed the entire experience daily driving mine.
A few reasons..
Some people prefer not to agree to the terms & conditions enabling siri requires.
Generally the stock system boots up much more quickly than aftermarket
Outside of a concerning frequency of 2013 systems dying, the stock system is built to toyota standards and in the long term will probably be much more reliable than one using no name parts from china. I believe this will be particularly important for "tesla-screen" systems that most likely aren't designed for the thermal & vibration requirements of a car. Even tesla couldn't do this well for their early vehicles.
 
I’m just using a Mozart zlink interface with the stock touch screen in my 2016.

It doesn't require enabling Siri either.

 
I’m just using a Mozart zlink interface with the stock touch screen in my 2016.

It doesn't require enabling Siri either.

Maybe it changed but as of a year ago you absolutely did have to agree to the Siri T&C to use CarPlay. Whether it was set up to listen for voice commands or not.
 
Nooo. You would be hard pressed to find any aftermarket sub that would effectively run on the stock amp.
I am running an old Alpine PDX-1.600
Do you get the type of bass that rivals a box using the factory sub in its location? I have a powered RF sub and it may be too much but i dont want to depend solely on replacing the factory sub for unsatisfying thump, lol
 
The stock ‘box’ is 22l or 0.77 ft3. Any sub rated for that size sealed is what you’re after. Match the amp to the sub power requirements. Add Bass eq and overall eq processing as needed
 
The stock ‘box’ is 22l or 0.77 ft3. Any sub rated for that size sealed is what you’re after. Match the amp to the sub power requirements. Add Bass eq and overall eq processing as needed
Will having too powerful of a sub/amp in that factory sub position lead to uncontrollable rattling? Id love the OEM look but I dont want it to sound like a 78 Cutlass with 15s when i drive by lol
 
Will having too powerful of a sub/amp in that factory sub position lead to uncontrollable rattling? Id love the OEM look but I dont want it to sound like a 78 Cutlass with 15s when i drive by lol
I put a box of generic stick on sound mat covering a lot of the stock box, and placed the remainder on the fender and some handy interior metal surfaces.

In general though my LX doesn’t rattle. It has a lot of built in dampening. No reason to believe the TLC would rattle.

It’ll be reasonably difficult to ‘overpower’ a sub in a small sealed box. There are some amp size constraints , and sub depth constraints already if you’re using the stock box and hiding the amp behind the interior plastic . It can still sound amazing, especially compared to stock, but you won’t be setting SPL competitions on fire.

My little amp and sub can play louder than the music balance and nicely fills the low end.

Pics
 
I just need my sub to keep up with my other speakers. I dont need the sound of 4 solobarics like back in the day, lol.

I think i will find a small amp that will fit behind the plastic and a shallow 10 that thumps.
 
Do you get the type of bass that rivals a box using the factory sub in its location? I have a powered RF sub and it may be too much but i dont want to depend solely on replacing the factory sub for unsatisfying thump, lol

Let's just say my bass control knob gets used a lot (to decrease the bass). I can rattle the mirror if I want.
I was a bit surprised at how much bass that tupperware box can produce. It's not ported so you don't get that low floppy thumping bass but I have almost always used a sealed box as I prefer the tight punchy bass.

I did wrap the box in CLD as well as put some on the quarter panel. I did not put enough though as I do get some rattling on the outside at certain frequencies. I have not taken the time to see what exactly is rattling but it could be the rear quarter panel, the sheet metal behind the rear glass or even the gas door.

For your other questions, I never felt the stock sub could keep up at all. And with no control over it, not much you could do without increasing the bass in the doors significanty.

Pretty much any sub and amp combo with a bass control will keep up or outperform the rest of the system if you want it to.
There are some examples in this thread of some very nice amp/processors that are small enough to fit in the jack cubby that will do a great job.

My amp and processor are mounted to a board on the left side of the rear next to the fridge. The fridge is as far left as I could get it so that area was just wasted space anyway.
 
Are all LX570 ML subs 4 ohms?
Lots of subs in general are 4 ohm, so that a parallel set is 2 ohm. If you’re using the stock amp an after market sub won’t get you much. With an aftermarket amp you can choose any sub that the amp is rated for., an 4 amp is a load that any amp should be able to handle.
The linked sub looks like a good fit for the LX, low free air resonance, pretty good sensitivity, and recommended for a 0.6ft3 box.

 
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