Builds Evolution of a Land Cruiser: My 80's build thread (10 Viewers)

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Also my link brackets don't extend below the crossmember, so YMMV

I could see those brackets being potential rock anchors. Once I get the links in place I'll see if I have room to trim the brackets and raise them a bit. I plan on running 2.25 x 0.375" lower links so they may get real close to the gas tank at full compression.
 
I could see those brackets being potential rock anchors. Once I get the links in place I'll see if I have room to trim the brackets and raise them a bit. I plan on running 2.25 x 0.375" lower links so they may get real close to the gas tank at full compression.
Or just create little ramps so you can throttle over them.
 
Any more pics of your wheels after being painted?
Post #2423 has one single picture... what a tease.

Sorry that's all got! I tend to get ADD on projects; start one thing, get distracted and start something else. I've only painted one wheel so far. Now my focus is all into the rear suspension overhaul so it'll probably be a while before I get them all painted.
 
Sorry that's all got! I tend to get ADD on projects; start one thing, get distracted and start something else. I've only painted one wheel so far. Now my focus is all into the rear suspension overhaul so it'll probably be a while before I get them all painted.

:rofl:

How long did you ride around with only one trimmed and slidered rocker?
 
:rofl:

How long did you ride around with only one trimmed and slidered rocker?

What do you mean "did"? I still haven't done the passenger side. 3yrs this year :flipoff2:
 

What do you mean "did"? I still haven't done the passenger side. 3yrs this year :flipoff2:

Oh s#it!!! Man i was giving you the benefit of the doubt even though i didn't remember pictures suggesting it. I also figured surely he wouldn't jump to this before finishing that...

I just picked up my new bumper in raw steel a couple weekends ago, i liked it with no paint but thought to myself "that'll never work, you're not Jose and this isnt dry ass california. Get to painting!" :cheers:
 
Oh s#it!!! Man i was giving you the benefit of the doubt even though i didn't remember pictures suggesting it. I also figured surely he wouldn't jump to this before finishing that...

I just picked up my new bumper in raw steel a couple weekends ago, i liked it with no paint but thought to myself "that'll never work, you're not Jose and this isnt dry ass california. Get to painting!" :cheers:

I'm getting closer though! As part of the rear suspension I need to relocate the exhaust which means rotating the cats and new muffler routing. Which means I need to cut off my old slider. Which means I might as well chop the rocker.
 
BACKUP / CAMP LIGHTS

Well since I moved LED pods up to the front to serve as ditch lights, I needed something for the rear. Decided to get something a little different for the backup instead of another set of 4 LED pods. They were nice, but the light output wasn't what I was looking for. I wanted to throw a good amount of light behind the truck for backing up since most of my rear window is blocked (and tinted dark).

Searched Amazon and found some 9 LED 27w 4.3" round work lights at 2150 lumens. These are all over eBay and have been for a while. Amazon had these at $36 shipped for a pair. And 2 day shipping? SOLD! http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4SO446/?tag=ihco-20

Started by ghetto fabbing a light mount out of 1/4" flat bar, welded to my tire carrier.

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The lights are stout! Aluminum housing, thick glass lens, heck - they're built better than the fancy pods I have up front.

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Big ol' hefer

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And BRIGHT!

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Can't remember if I posted this before - but I had also added a ground cut-off switch. Comes in handy when at the campsite. Turn the lights on from the inside, then I can quickly turn them off from the outside without having to go back in the truck :)

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REAR SWAY BAR BUSHINGS

Rear sway bar bushings were shot - most likely original. The bushings in the ends of the sway bars are also shot. Ordered these from Toyota and they should be here soon. Couldn't find any aftermarket poly bushings for these. Anyway, did some searching and it looked like these would work. $14 on Amazon and 2 days later (can you tell I'm an Amazon whore?)

But wait, there's more! These come in a pack of 8. You only need 4 for the sway bar, so you'll have an extra set for when these go out.

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Out with the OLD. Not bad for 18 years of service.

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10 minutes later

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Do you have a write up on the internal wiring set up for rear lights. What did you tap into, where is switch on dash, how did you run concealed wire from front to back?
 
Do you have a write up on the internal wiring set up for rear lights. What did you tap into, where is switch on dash, how did you run concealed wire from front to back?

Never did a write-up on the wiring but it's just like wiring any other light setup; fused line to the battery/lights, relay for switch wiring, etc). I decided to run the wire under the truck along the frame in wire loom. The wiring for the switch comes in through the firewall. Switch is on the console near the shifter where the 4 blanks are.
 
Never did a write-up on the wiring but it's just like wiring any other light setup; fused line to the battery/lights, relay for switch wiring, etc). I decided to run the wire under the truck along the frame in wire loom. The wiring for the switch comes in through the firewall. Switch is on the console near the shifter where the 4 blanks are.
thanks. so you don't have it tapped into the back up lights so you can turn them on/off if you put truck in reverse?
 
thanks. so you don't have it tapped into the back up lights so you can turn them on/off if you put truck in reverse?

Not when I had these lights, they were manually activated via a switch. However that whole setup has changed. These lights I just installed on my tailgate are wired directly to the reverse lights without a switch.

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Somehow I need to make this truss fit...

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I wouldn't use that for a truss - too bulky. You need to sneak it in there. Plan to trim that crossmember your current panhard mounts to so that, upon full stuff, it can fit in that space.
 
I wouldn't use that for a truss - too bulky. You need to sneak it in there. Plan to trim that crossmember your current panhard mounts to so that, upon full stuff, it can fit in that space.

I think I'm stuck with it due to shipping costs so I'll have to figure out how to make it work. Mounting the uniball will be tricky because this thing is so big. Might need to tilt the truss back and mount the uniball bracket on the face of the truss?
 
I think I'm stuck with it due to shipping costs so I'll have to figure out how to make it work. Mounting the uniball will be tricky because this thing is so big. Might need to tilt the truss back and mount the uniball bracket on the face of the truss?
Or just make your own truss? Youll find a use for that some day in the future
 
Or just make your own truss? Youll find a use for that some day in the future

Like the day you build me some beefy axles?
 

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