Builds Evolution of a Land Cruiser: My 80's build thread (7 Viewers)

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Thanks for the input. Since I'm still researching all opinions are welcome :) Everybody always says 5.29s are the way to go for anything bigger than a 35" tire.

You said you're at about 3000 RPMs at 80mph with 36" tires and 4.88 gears. Wouldn't 5.29s lower your RPMs at the same speed?

About strength, I was reading a thread where folks recommended letting the axle shafts be the weak point, or the "fuse". Get your R&P cryo treated, chromoly Birfs and use the stock axle shafts. That way if something goes, it won't be the expensive Birfs or the hard-to-replace R&P. Thoughts about that?

And I also really should have my truck checked out. The previous owner says he THINKS the truck was re-geared but he never confirmed with the previous owners. I bought the truck with 35s and a small lift already on it. At 75mph I'm well under 3000 RPMs.

I would need to drive a stock truck to see if there's actually a difference. Or maybe another truck with 35s and stock gears to see if it's similar. My truck is not an extreme crawler by any means but I do plan on spending a lot of time in the rocks. And I also drive 1-3 hrs on the freeway to get to the rocks, hence my dilemma :)

A few thoughts...

As far as gears are concerned, I would go 5.29's and not look back, I run 345x75x16's and drive mine on the street quite a bit, drove it 500 miles one way to Rausch Creek last year... And I've has no problems, I don't do 80 on the highway, but who with 37's and a big heavy truck does that anyway...

The ring gears are weaker the deeper in the gears you go.... But honestly, if you sheer a ring and pinion, it's either not set up correctly, or you're doing something you shouldn't (like beating on it in reverse up a hill with the front locked)

I run longs and before I got them I'd break birfs like it was my job, and you are correct with the "fuse" or weak link being moved, but I think that the drive flanges are more of a concern than the ring and pinion...

I plan to upgrade my hub studs and use the drive flange as the fuse, it's easy and cheap to fix and replace..

I'm in no way easy on my truck, and I've broken a lot of stuff, but the ring and pinion are not really a concern of mine, I wouldn't let that sway you away from 5.29's...

Which brings me to your "mystery gears" the easiest way to see what gears you have is to remove your rear drive shaft from your diff, lock your rear, Jack up the rear so both tires are off the ground, mark the top of the tire, turn the pinion by hand until the tire completes one revolution, count the amount of rotations of the pinion and that is your ratio...
 
ya got to go back and take those same pics after you Paint it. Those would be sweet before and after pics!
 
wonderful work , continue on it. espectacular jose. :clap::clap::clap:

Thanks, appreciate it!

Man, such nice places!! (maybe the pictures are too nice ;))
Jealous!

Thanks! And I think it's a little bit of both :)

Love this build and I always get excited when I see you post new pics on flickr! Nice fan install too, so nice to have that extra help with your water temps when stopped/moving slow on the trail. The 37's are going to look badass on there! Interested to see what you do with gears...

With your question about 5.29's vs. 4.88's - Your going to see a higher RPM with the 5.29's vs. 4.88's at the same speed. I'm in the same dilema, lots of highway to get to the trails, I'm leaning 4.88's so it's more "economical" on those longer highway journeys. Besides you can always run the Marlin T-Case gears if you want a lower crawling ratio. I ain't competing in the Hammers though! haha

Thanks for the feedback, and the input on the gears. I don't know why I thought lower gearing would lead to lower RPMs at a given speed. Guess I had it all backwards. And explains the feeling of power loss when going to a bigger tire without re-gearing.

looks awesome man. yes the jump from 37s from 35s make the 80 look way better.

I know right! It's like the perfect tire size. My 35s look so tiny now.

A few thoughts...

As far as gears are concerned, I would go 5.29's and not look back, I run 345x75x16's and drive mine on the street quite a bit, drove it 500 miles one way to Rausch Creek last year... And I've has no problems, I don't do 80 on the highway, but who with 37's and a big heavy truck does that anyway...

The ring gears are weaker the deeper in the gears you go.... But honestly, if you sheer a ring and pinion, it's either not set up correctly, or you're doing something you shouldn't (like beating on it in reverse up a hill with the front locked)

I run longs and before I got them I'd break birfs like it was my job, and you are correct with the "fuse" or weak link being moved, but I think that the drive flanges are more of a concern than the ring and pinion...

I plan to upgrade my hub studs and use the drive flange as the fuse, it's easy and cheap to fix and replace..

I'm in no way easy on my truck, and I've broken a lot of stuff, but the ring and pinion are not really a concern of mine, I wouldn't let that sway you away from 5.29's...

Which brings me to your "mystery gears" the easiest way to see what gears you have is to remove your rear drive shaft from your diff, lock your rear, Jack up the rear so both tires are off the ground, mark the top of the tire, turn the pinion by hand until the tire completes one revolution, count the amount of rotations of the pinion and that is your ratio...

Thanks for typing all that, good info! And that's good to know about the gears. This is by no means are hardcore rock basher but I do want to wheel it hard without having to worry about breaking parts. I'm fairly easy on the gas when wheeling and remember not to do to much when going in reverse. I'll have to look more into the drive flange and studs, that's one area I hadn't thought about yet.

I just reached out to Georg @ Valley Hybrids to get quote on the gear install. That will be my next project after the paint!

ya got to go back and take those same pics after you Paint it. Those would be sweet before and after pics!

Ha! Believe it or not I have thought about that :D
 
FRONT BRAKE OVERHAUL

While I have the truck torn down in preparation for paint I decided to work on the front brakes as well. My brakes were squeaking badly when doing light braking even with new pads so it was time for a refresh.

Picked up the drilled/slotted zinc Powerstop rotors, their ceramic pads and the Napa "Eclipse" semi-loaded remanufactured calipers. Not even sure if I needed calipers but for $65 a pop, figured I might as well change them now. Just need to bleed all around then take her for a spin. Up next will be the rear!

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Peaking behind the wheel

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Are those factory calipers that have been reman & painted?
 
Thanks bro
 
AC DRYER RELOCATION

Thanks to the tips provided by TYM4FUN and FJFOOL and I finally have this damn dryer out of the way. Prior to this I pushed it up a few inches and cut of the lower part of the bracket but it still hung too low, especially since I have very high-clearance AOE bumper. The dryer stuck out below the bumper.

Since everything is taken apart for paint it made it real easy. Slowly bent the lines to rotate the dryer counter clockwise until the bolt hole on the left side of the bracket lined up with the mounting hole on the right side. Easy as pie!

Pics make it easier to visualize what I did.

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Man I just need to do this. Did you bend them by hand?
 
Yeah by hand. They bend very very easily. Doesn't take much pressure. Just don't bend so much that you kink the lines, then you're screwed!
 
Sneak peek of what I've been up to lately!

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Looks sweet dude!
 
looking good! is this monstaliner sans panties? If so, I have been considering using the same color for my newly acquired 80. Did you spray or roll this on? On a scale of 1-10, how hard was this to apply?

Cheers
 
Yup, Sans Panties. I rolled it on. Painting itself is very easy, much like interior house painting. It's just all the prep work that goes into it that makes it a tough project, but that goes for any type of paint job.

This stuff is messy. And it sets very quick so you need to work fast. By the end of the gallon it was like painting with oatmeal! If I had the tools and the shop space I would have sprayed without a doubt. Rolling takes forever!
 
cool thread cool pics cool cruiser !:beer:
 
aweosme luv ur rig Cardona , just cancelled my app w the body shop had decided to go with traditional paint (silver) this weekend ... but after what u just did im monstalining it (spraying) , just have to decide on a color :/ ordering the monsta sqmpler right now , to see how the colors will actually look , thanks man for giving us the inpiration ;)
 

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