Engine swap in some little village in Sierra Leone!
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- #162
That's NOT what I want to hear! At this point I only have the ability to go back to a manual setup.
Is there any issue for the power steering pump if it simply recirculates all the time rather than actually running through the steering box? This is a pump built into the engine NOT belt driven.
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- #164
I don't suppose you have a '60 series power steering box anywhere underfoot?
Steve at EBI might have one. You want me to ask?
How about just splitting/cutting the nut off? You likely don't have a nut splitter big enough but you can carefully cut it with a small fine cutting disk and then clean-up the threads afterwards.
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- #168
Wayne/John, let me know what it would cost to have one with the pitman arm and nut loose. I really don't want to ship the box over only to find the same problem as I have now with a replacement box. I'd rather pay someone at home to separate the parts so I know I can get it working over here.
I've never seen a case where a nut that large could get stripped so easily. I can't imagine what else it could be.
I've never seen a case where a nut that large could get stripped so easily. I can't imagine what else it could be.
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- #169
Well after much chasing to find a pulley for the A/C compressor I have bastardized the compressor mount slightly so the old mount fits the new engine. We'll try it out tomorrow and see how things work. Is seems a pulley with the correct offset was never made and I don't want the guys here to start messing with the A/C when I have a possible trip past the Sahara in the next year!
We'll eventually have this thing sorted out. What would make things really easy is a quality spare parts place out here but that is never going to happen.
We'll eventually have this thing sorted out. What would make things really easy is a quality spare parts place out here but that is never going to happen.
Been a while since I have been in here..
Looks like a great challange.. but not always a fun one-
As noone has chimed in on the fuel issue.. I will-
there is no check valve in the system that I am aware of ( I have a rotary 3B as well ) --
I didn't have a bleedback issue ( which surely could be a pinhole leak anywhere or an oring on the fuel filter ) .. but what I did was install a outboard priming bulb inline on the passenger side where the fuel line comes up ( I ran my fuel line across the top of the engine behind the valve cover in the swap.. which allowed for a great upward straight stretch that those valves prefer ) Serves 2 purposes.. one - PRIMING .. obviously.. goes much much faster with that volume.. and two.. serves as a check valve- Cheap.. available.. functional.. but a non-toyota part..
I think those of us who live far far from help are more willing to install something functional.. even if it takes away from the originality of the truck if it means getting home or sleeping in the bush --
( I think everyone should have one of those in their truck with a dozen feet or so of line- esp gasoline trucks.. if your pump goes bad.. you can drive along.. and pump gas into your carb if you need to- or you can siphon fuel out of anything you find along the road in an emergency- ) Just my thoughts-
Looks like a great challange.. but not always a fun one-
As noone has chimed in on the fuel issue.. I will-
there is no check valve in the system that I am aware of ( I have a rotary 3B as well ) --
I didn't have a bleedback issue ( which surely could be a pinhole leak anywhere or an oring on the fuel filter ) .. but what I did was install a outboard priming bulb inline on the passenger side where the fuel line comes up ( I ran my fuel line across the top of the engine behind the valve cover in the swap.. which allowed for a great upward straight stretch that those valves prefer ) Serves 2 purposes.. one - PRIMING .. obviously.. goes much much faster with that volume.. and two.. serves as a check valve- Cheap.. available.. functional.. but a non-toyota part..
I think those of us who live far far from help are more willing to install something functional.. even if it takes away from the originality of the truck if it means getting home or sleeping in the bush --
( I think everyone should have one of those in their truck with a dozen feet or so of line- esp gasoline trucks.. if your pump goes bad.. you can drive along.. and pump gas into your carb if you need to- or you can siphon fuel out of anything you find along the road in an emergency- ) Just my thoughts-
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- #171
Since this is about my truck and the issues in some little African village, I'm in the process of changing brake pads 'cause the old ones are done, maybe 1/2mm left!
How does one make the pistons in the brake caliper move freely again? At home if I can't easily retract the pistons it's a trip to the neighborhood auto parts store and in 1/2 hour I have rebuilds. Not so simple here! Is there some trick to free the pistons? Some of the four pistons in the calipers still move freely and some don't.
How does one make the pistons in the brake caliper move freely again? At home if I can't easily retract the pistons it's a trip to the neighborhood auto parts store and in 1/2 hour I have rebuilds. Not so simple here! Is there some trick to free the pistons? Some of the four pistons in the calipers still move freely and some don't.
2 small c-clamps.. little by little.. press them in.. a little on one.. a little on the other.. while making sure the fluid doesn't spill over up top-
and then to expand them again.. loosen the clamps.. put the caliper over the disc again ( or something similar to simulate the disc ) and press the pedal-
if you have enough fluid ( if there is a neighborly lube store ) you can pop the pucks out.. clean them.. and put them back in again --
and then to expand them again.. loosen the clamps.. put the caliper over the disc again ( or something similar to simulate the disc ) and press the pedal-
if you have enough fluid ( if there is a neighborly lube store ) you can pop the pucks out.. clean them.. and put them back in again --
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Putting a smear of rubber grease inside all the rubber boots helps too.
But be careful you don't tear the boots when prising them open.
But be careful you don't tear the boots when prising them open.
I would recommend taking them apart if enough fluid is available to replace as they need a good cleaning. I too would recommend lubing the boots and pistons- silicone based grease or brake parts grease ( which is hard to find here in the US) maybe food grade lube (silicone based) Using the hydraulic pressure is touchy but with a block of wood in between and finessing it out as far as possible then get the remaining ones out with a set of channel lock pliars. I've cleaned them up before and reused the o-rings with no leaks..
Charles, I have rebuilt all my calipers on both rigs. It isn't hard but you will need a rebuild kit for each caliper. A torn boot or even a pin hole in a boot can let water in and seize the pins or the pistons.
To get the pistons out, I use compressed air and a thin block of wood on the other side of the caliper so the piston does not slam against the metal end when it pops. Make sure you don't have you fingers in between. When they pop out, they'll have whatever air pressure you are using behind them - usually 100 psi+.
Most pistons can be cleaned up on a wire wheel if the chrome is still on them. The pins also clean up easy on a wire wheel. You will likely have to hone the caliper bore with a small hone if there is any corrosion. The bores for the pins are too small for a hone. However, you can slice the end of a thin long bolt (also cut off the bolt end) and insert a bit of bent spring steel with some extra fine emery cloth. Put the bolt on a hand drill and you have a nice hone for small shafts. With the Safari, getting the piston seal and boot on and the piston back in can be a real pain. Make sure you lube the caliper bore, piston and pressure seal well with brake fluid. Like was said above, pack the slide bores and rubber dust seals full of rubber/brake grease. I like to fill up the pistons with brake fluid and get as much air out of them before I install them. If you were careful with the brake lines when you take the calipers off, there will not be much air to bleed out. If you haven't changed brake fluid in a couple years, bleed until you see clean fluid.
To get the pistons out, I use compressed air and a thin block of wood on the other side of the caliper so the piston does not slam against the metal end when it pops. Make sure you don't have you fingers in between. When they pop out, they'll have whatever air pressure you are using behind them - usually 100 psi+.
Most pistons can be cleaned up on a wire wheel if the chrome is still on them. The pins also clean up easy on a wire wheel. You will likely have to hone the caliper bore with a small hone if there is any corrosion. The bores for the pins are too small for a hone. However, you can slice the end of a thin long bolt (also cut off the bolt end) and insert a bit of bent spring steel with some extra fine emery cloth. Put the bolt on a hand drill and you have a nice hone for small shafts. With the Safari, getting the piston seal and boot on and the piston back in can be a real pain. Make sure you lube the caliper bore, piston and pressure seal well with brake fluid. Like was said above, pack the slide bores and rubber dust seals full of rubber/brake grease. I like to fill up the pistons with brake fluid and get as much air out of them before I install them. If you were careful with the brake lines when you take the calipers off, there will not be much air to bleed out. If you haven't changed brake fluid in a couple years, bleed until you see clean fluid.
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- #176
Kief, fortunately I do have some brake grease in my tool box stash!
The question I have for both you and John is on the Land Cruiser there are four pistons in each caliper. Of course not all are seized. One caliper only the lower piston on each side is seized or seizing and on the other both on one side are seized. Obviously blowing them out with compressed air or other means will release the easiest piston first and once that one is out how do you hold pressure to release the rest?
I'm going to see if calipers are available in Freetown before getting too carried away here.
The question I have for both you and John is on the Land Cruiser there are four pistons in each caliper. Of course not all are seized. One caliper only the lower piston on each side is seized or seizing and on the other both on one side are seized. Obviously blowing them out with compressed air or other means will release the easiest piston first and once that one is out how do you hold pressure to release the rest?
I'm going to see if calipers are available in Freetown before getting too carried away here.
put a wooden block between the easy pistons and blow out the hard.
then reverse with a plastic sheet to stop the air for the others, if they are coming out easy then it will be super easy ...
i will let you now about the steering box arm in a few hours bud.
cheers
then reverse with a plastic sheet to stop the air for the others, if they are coming out easy then it will be super easy ...
i will let you now about the steering box arm in a few hours bud.
cheers
10 min and it was off
started with my small 3 point and the 1/2" impact ... no go
then went to my bigger 3 point and the 3/4" drive (36" long) ratchet with extension on the handle and POP goes the weasel.
sending pics direct as well.
started with my small 3 point and the 1/2" impact ... no go
then went to my bigger 3 point and the 3/4" drive (36" long) ratchet with extension on the handle and POP goes the weasel.
sending pics direct as well.
I'd block in the pistons that are not seized and apply air to the seized ones. You will need to take off the dust seals and may need to blast them with penetrating fluid the night before.
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- #180
Finally tore into the old engine to find the root cause of this ongoing saga!
Has anyone seen a 3B piston disintegrate like this before? It looks like it has been going on for some time given the wear on the piston crown. I know what the strange knocking was now!
Has anyone seen a 3B piston disintegrate like this before? It looks like it has been going on for some time given the wear on the piston crown. I know what the strange knocking was now!