Hey how's it going pig owners! I just got back from an 8 month long deployment and had been talking to my wife about getting a land cruiser. When I got back home I had this beauty sitting in my driveway. Pretty cool wife right? Well now that it's in my driveway, that's about as far as it will go. So my father in law and I got to work and started doing a little troubleshooting to seemingly no avail. We put a new battery in it, new coil, new fuel lines, and tried a little re wiring. The PO had already put a new Holley carb on it, new Mallory distributor, and threw in a 2F from a 60 (which year, I'm not sure). I tested the voltage on the battery and the alternator and the both are reading 12v. Basically, there is no power coming from the coil to the distributor. I checked all my wires and connections and they are all good. Could it be something with the ballast resistor? Any help is much appreciated!
Electrical issues...
- Thread starter john Doupe
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #3
Hey tucker,
I checked for power in the coil and still nothing. Where should i start looking for power? Electrical issues are over my head so i apologize in advance if I'm a little slow...
I checked for power in the coil and still nothing. Where should i start looking for power? Electrical issues are over my head so i apologize in advance if I'm a little slow...
The following link is going to be your friend, not sure exactly what year you have or which the ignition is from:
http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/schematics/
The corresponding year FJ40 should be good for the ignition circuit, I think there are only '73 & '77 FJ55 diagrams. You need to chase the fusable link if you don't have power to the coil -
Tucker
http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/schematics/
The corresponding year FJ40 should be good for the ignition circuit, I think there are only '73 & '77 FJ55 diagrams. You need to chase the fusable link if you don't have power to the coil -
Tucker
John,
Glad you made it back safe. Thank You!
Your Wife is a special person, to have that beautiful wagon, waiting on you. Wish I could help with your problem, but I know less than you on the electrical front.
Good luck with it and post up some more pictures.
Glad you made it back safe. Thank You!
Your Wife is a special person, to have that beautiful wagon, waiting on you. Wish I could help with your problem, but I know less than you on the electrical front.
Good luck with it and post up some more pictures.
Wow, a very cool wife indeed!
Thank you for your service.
The fusible link is designed to fail before other more significant electrical damage can occur. It is usually located right off the positive terminal of the batter to the ignition.
Do you know what year ignition you have, or has everything been replaced by the Mallory?
Thank you for your service.
The fusible link is designed to fail before other more significant electrical damage can occur. It is usually located right off the positive terminal of the batter to the ignition.
Do you know what year ignition you have, or has everything been replaced by the Mallory?
Wait, are you measuring 12 volts at the alternator when Pig is running? Or will she not run at all?
If she is running, you should over 13 volts at the alternator...
If she is running, you should over 13 volts at the alternator...
- Thread starter
- #8
I should back up, and again i apologize for the "new guy" questions.
It is a 71 with a 2F (unsure of the year)
I'll post more details on it after i get this one taken care of.... A lot of work to be done here.
We got it started up eventually, that was when i tested the battery and the alternator. To make it start, we put in a new coil and messed around with some loose wires in the ignition switch, sprayed some stater fluid in the carb and it started right up and ran strong for the twenty minutes i drove it. It seems like all good things come to an end and sure enough, she died after some driving around the neighborhood thinking i was on top of the world.
So where i am at now,
I am having it towed to my house first thing in the morning. I have done a pretty thorough inspection of everything and cant seem to find a solution. There is 11V coming out of the ignition switch. but the current seems to stop at the coil. I did a some research on ballast resistors, coils, and distributors and i cant really make too much sense of it all. Right now, i have bypassed the ballast resistor so the ignition wire is hooked up directly to the coil and the distributor (I took that apart as well to make sure nothing screwy was going on, It's good) is connected directly to the coil. I followed all the wires to make sure they were all connected and that there were no fuses out. That's pretty much the extent of my capabilities! I will post pictures tomorrow morning as soon as i start working on it again.
Thanks again for the help, I can only hope it continues! Most certainly proud to be a pig owner!
It is a 71 with a 2F (unsure of the year)
I'll post more details on it after i get this one taken care of.... A lot of work to be done here.
We got it started up eventually, that was when i tested the battery and the alternator. To make it start, we put in a new coil and messed around with some loose wires in the ignition switch, sprayed some stater fluid in the carb and it started right up and ran strong for the twenty minutes i drove it. It seems like all good things come to an end and sure enough, she died after some driving around the neighborhood thinking i was on top of the world.
So where i am at now,
I am having it towed to my house first thing in the morning. I have done a pretty thorough inspection of everything and cant seem to find a solution. There is 11V coming out of the ignition switch. but the current seems to stop at the coil. I did a some research on ballast resistors, coils, and distributors and i cant really make too much sense of it all. Right now, i have bypassed the ballast resistor so the ignition wire is hooked up directly to the coil and the distributor (I took that apart as well to make sure nothing screwy was going on, It's good) is connected directly to the coil. I followed all the wires to make sure they were all connected and that there were no fuses out. That's pretty much the extent of my capabilities! I will post pictures tomorrow morning as soon as i start working on it again.
Thanks again for the help, I can only hope it continues! Most certainly proud to be a pig owner!
- Thread starter
- #9
Also,
It turns over just fine but there is no ignition. I don't now if that helps at all.
Thanks again!
It turns over just fine but there is no ignition. I don't now if that helps at all.
Thanks again!
- Thread starter
- #10
alright so after doing some more trial and a lot of error, i got a current to run to the coil. thats where it stops. I dont know how to get the distributor to start working now. ideas?
- Thread starter
- #12
Alright, so i watched the video and realized that I have been testing the coil the wrong way. I was placing the positive side of the meter on the positive side of the coil. apparently i am supposed to place the + side on the negative part of the coil?( I got a .9V when i tested it) Sorry, this has to be frustrating for those reading this. any more ideas/ suggestions?
- Thread starter
- #13
Problem solved potentially,
after watching the video from J MACK i went out and did some more tinkering and found out that the unilite module 605 shorted. So now i just need to find some place that sells a new one. The guys at pep boys had no idea what i was talking about so i am going to try looking online. Anyone know any places in san diego that sell special items like this?
after watching the video from J MACK i went out and did some more tinkering and found out that the unilite module 605 shorted. So now i just need to find some place that sells a new one. The guys at pep boys had no idea what i was talking about so i am going to try looking online. Anyone know any places in san diego that sell special items like this?
Ive been buying a lot of stuff from these guys and shipping is fast.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-605/overview/
Good luck!
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-605/overview/
Good luck!
- Thread starter
- #15
Awesome! one last question, what should i do about the ballast resistor? do i need it or not? Thanks!
John was is the set up on your pig tire and suspension? Looks like a great stance.. for a daily driver...nice pig...
...via IH8MUD app
...via IH8MUD app
- Thread starter
- #18
71greenpig,
Unfortunately i am out of town right now so i can't give you the exact specs. the tires are 32" and i am unsure about the lift. As soon as i get back i will let you know!
Unfortunately i am out of town right now so i can't give you the exact specs. the tires are 32" and i am unsure about the lift. As soon as i get back i will let you know!