Good work on the console. That is a valuable ideal for others to try out. Thanks.
El cheapo center console
- Thread starter tucson_sailors
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- Thread starter
- #22
Can dimensions
18" from back to front
14" deep
the padded armest on top adds 3" of height to the unit.
Glenn
7 1/2" wide for the can itself, 8" nominal with the raised bar on the sides.
18" from back to front
14" deep
the padded armest on top adds 3" of height to the unit.
Glenn
- Thread starter
- #23
Original thread found!
Glenn
Yup. This is the one that I got the inspriation from. He did a much nicer paint job than I did. I used a desert tan rustoleum that I had used to match a replacement fender. It's flat, not glossy and matches pretty well
Glenn
i shot all four a quick PM from the other thread - wondering if he has a line on these still. Looks like the 30mm not 20mm cans specifically. 20mm are 8.5" wide, 30mm look like 9.5" wide. I told him about this thread so hopefully he will post up, or i will relay any useful info.
this should be a perfect setup in my non-tuffy 60. Tuffys are great, but for the price, this is going to be hard to beat.
rob
this should be a perfect setup in my non-tuffy 60. Tuffys are great, but for the price, this is going to be hard to beat.
rob
Glenn - thanks!
for you!I think that one must be a 20mm can then. I'm going to stop at surplus on the way home (just a block out of the way during commute) and see if they have them. I'll let everyone know what i find. This is going to be a perfect upgrade in the 87 that currently has no console!
rob
- Thread starter
- #26
Lock idea
Gonna run by Ace Hardware after work, and look for a seriously hoss eyebolt out of grade 8 or better, that has some machine threads. The lid for the 30mm can has wide enough slots to let one pass thru, then you can put a lock through it. Idea cheerfully stolen from this guys build. Easy Home made Locking Ammo can Glenn
Gonna run by Ace Hardware after work, and look for a seriously hoss eyebolt out of grade 8 or better, that has some machine threads. The lid for the 30mm can has wide enough slots to let one pass thru, then you can put a lock through it. Idea cheerfully stolen from this guys build. Easy Home made Locking Ammo can Glenn
- Thread starter
- #28
Size question
I can see a need to put the trays in there, but you'd have to fabricate them, since the fat 50 is mucho smaller, and the premade trays are only for that. And I'm thinking that this may be one of the bigger 20mm cans, rather than 30mm. Thanks to Sl33py for pointing that out. Glenn
Could go another 1 to 2 inches, but then it would be a tight grip for the handbrake. I prefer to have a space for the brake lever. That can is a *LOT* of space as compared to the original.
I can see a need to put the trays in there, but you'd have to fabricate them, since the fat 50 is mucho smaller, and the premade trays are only for that. And I'm thinking that this may be one of the bigger 20mm cans, rather than 30mm. Thanks to Sl33py for pointing that out. Glenn
This is the best idea I have seen in a long time. Way to go!
hey guys - stopped at the surplus store on the way home. found a 20mm can and they are 7.5" wide. i will mess with it and keep an eye out for a 30mm at the next gun show. The surplus store didnt have a 30mm... Good storage either way and about 20$
rob
rob
AllFour sent me a link to the guy's ebay store whom he bought his can from, but the listing is gone now and don't remember the guy's ebay username. I found something that looks like it would fit on ebay though. I don't have cash to buy it right now but someone else want to try one out?
Ebay
EDIT: Tucson_sailors, how is shifting with this can as a console? Does it get in the way at all?
Ebay
EDIT: Tucson_sailors, how is shifting with this can as a console? Does it get in the way at all?
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #33
Shifting question
EDIT: Tucson_sailors, how is shifting with this can as a console? Does it get in the way at all?[/QUOTE] Hasn't been an issue for me. In 2nd and 4th you have about 2 inches from the can to the shift lever, so I can let my fingertips just rest on it if I'm in traffic and may have to shift to 3rd. You have some slop in where you place the can backwards or forwards depending on your comfort, or you could make the armrest pad a little less tall. I went with 3 inches, and its just perfect for me. Also, if you have one of the rigs where the back seats is always down, you could probably put the can a little further back than I placed it.
Glenn
EDIT: Tucson_sailors, how is shifting with this can as a console? Does it get in the way at all?[/QUOTE] Hasn't been an issue for me. In 2nd and 4th you have about 2 inches from the can to the shift lever, so I can let my fingertips just rest on it if I'm in traffic and may have to shift to 3rd. You have some slop in where you place the can backwards or forwards depending on your comfort, or you could make the armrest pad a little less tall. I went with 3 inches, and its just perfect for me. Also, if you have one of the rigs where the back seats is always down, you could probably put the can a little further back than I placed it.
Glenn
GLT - that's not a 40mm. I think that's a 20mm as well. specs are the same as the one i picked up last night on the way home.
and too expensive - 40$?! mine was 22$ and 25$ OTD.
check your local surplus shop for the 20mm - they seem pretty common. IIRC they are also at most gun shows - saw some for 10$
GL!
rob
I started mine this weekend, picked up a 20 mm can at the army surplus warehouse for under $15 with some surface rust. cleaned it up, did some trimming here and there, welded one side to be used as a hinge, added factory cupholders, now it just needs painted up, and the padded armrest installed. Total cost will be under $40 when I'm done, probably under $30. Will post up pics when I complete it sometime this week.
- Thread starter
- #36
More phots
Since pictures say $1000.00 worth of words.
Since pictures say $1000.00 worth of words.
Ok, if anybody is looking to make one of these, to make the hinge I had to modify one of the latches, and it's already welded, but using the above pic, I'll try to describe what I did. The rear latch did not work as a latch if it was in the closed position, it would cause the lid to bind, so I trimmed the tabs on either side that go under the lip, and used teh grinder on the piece of the latch that runs all the way across. Then welded it in place. The effect is the latch sits slightly higher than it would in the latched position, and out just a little, which allows for the latch to act as a hinge with no binding.
I also cut off the handles, I figured my console didn't need handles, and they got in the way of my cupholders. I'll have it all finished up tonight or tomorrow.
I also cut off the handles, I figured my console didn't need handles, and they got in the way of my cupholders. I'll have it all finished up tonight or tomorrow.
Simple and Genius!! Even i can do that! I have the 20mm can and will be trying to get it mounted this week.
Thx for the photos!
rob
Thanks Fowldarr. I think i'm following how you did this but most curious on the rear latch mods to make this open correctly. And your cup holders (got to have cup holders!).
rob