How often does a typical EGR modulator need to be replaced on average? Blue and green tops? I replaced mine about 3 years ago with the blue top.
EGR Problem??? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter landtoy80
- Start date
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I just got code 71 on my 94... Id really like to thank the people that took the time to put info and pics into this thread. Totally saved me $ and put me in the right direction to fix the egr system issues. So far i pulled my modumator and it was very clean w little/ no carbon buildup. Moving deeper into the system and searching for the culprit....
Is the blue egr modulator Many of u are referring to off a late 80s fj60 by chance?
Thanks again good people of the mud community
Is the blue egr modulator Many of u are referring to off a late 80s fj60 by chance?
Thanks again good people of the mud community
I am currently running with a code 71 on my '91 FJ 80. Which modulator should I be using? I've been going through my EGR system no luck yet?I just got code 71 on my 94... Id really like to thank the people that took the time to put info and pics into this thread. Totally saved me $ and put me in the right direction to fix the egr system issues. So far i pulled my modumator and it was very clean w little/ no carbon buildup. Moving deeper into the system and searching for the culprit....
Is the blue egr modulator Many of u are referring to off a late 80s fj60 by chance?
Thanks again good people of the mud community
After cleaning out my modulator and replacing the vacumm line that comes out the bottom my CEL is gone and the truck idles mUch smoother
Earlier in the threadthey refer to the blue one off the fj60 as being better
Anyone have a part number for that? It would be for my 91 fj80.
anyone else getting bluebox/questionmarks instead of pix on landtoy's initial post?
EGR Valve: OEM part# 25620-61120
EGR Valve Gasket: OEM part# 25627-61021
EGR Modulator: OEM part# 25870-61020
hey guys, i'm a noob at this and i've tried searching, but does anyone have instructions on how to take the EGR valve and modulator assemblies apart to inspect/clean?
i've replaced the VSV based on just statistics, but it didn't fix the situation so I'm looking elsewhere.
P0401 with a rough idle hovering around 615. what's 'normal' for idle rpm in a 97 fzj80?
thanks for the wealth of info guys! i love this place...
i've replaced the VSV based on just statistics, but it didn't fix the situation so I'm looking elsewhere.
P0401 with a rough idle hovering around 615. what's 'normal' for idle rpm in a 97 fzj80?
thanks for the wealth of info guys! i love this place...
- Thread starter
- #51
The modulator just twist the cap to take it apart. The only thing I cleaned on my EGR was the temp sensor, it gets carboned up.
Did you replace the modulator? The VSV usually fails when the modulator fails and lets carbon get into the vacuum system thus plugging the VSV.
Usually to solve the egr problems you replace the modulator, vsv, clean the temo sensor and clean out all the vacuum lines hard and soft. Carbon can plug up a vacuum line and cause a problem. Remove the intake plenum and make sure its not plugged too.
Did you replace the modulator? The VSV usually fails when the modulator fails and lets carbon get into the vacuum system thus plugging the VSV.
Usually to solve the egr problems you replace the modulator, vsv, clean the temo sensor and clean out all the vacuum lines hard and soft. Carbon can plug up a vacuum line and cause a problem. Remove the intake plenum and make sure its not plugged too.
thanks landtoy, i did clean the temp sensor. it was caked with soot. used a wire wheel and it's all shiny now. (that also didn't fix the problem)
I'm going to call CDan tomorrow and hopefully order a modulator. california smog is coming up fast! surely won't pass with this CEL.
I'm going to call CDan tomorrow and hopefully order a modulator. california smog is coming up fast! surely won't pass with this CEL.
Someone else can correct me if I am wrong, but if your idle is staying around 615 when you initially start, your EGR valve may be stuck open or being told to be open when it should be closed. Do you have a copy of the FSM to go through and troubleshoot the individual components? I believe that the EGR valve is supposed to remain closed until the exhaust comes up to temp and then open, which would allow for your RPMS to be higher upon initial start and then lower at temp.
About the clogging, I ended up having to take my air manifold apart to clean out all of the ports. They were very nasty! One thing for sure, if you do get a modulator, at least you can cross it off the list.
Good luck in your search.
About the clogging, I ended up having to take my air manifold apart to clean out all of the ports. They were very nasty! One thing for sure, if you do get a modulator, at least you can cross it off the list.
Good luck in your search.
LCHardriver_02:
thanks for the ideas!
on startup, my idle is rock solid/smooth and much higher than 615. as the car is at operating temp, it drops down to a wavering and rumbly ~615.
i tested the EGR valve itself this morning by attaching a long hose to the passenger side port and providing vacuum which caused the car to stumble. i also pinched off the drivers side port of the EGR valve while pulling vacuum and it stalled.
also pinched the line coming down into the VSV which also stalled the car.
does this mean my EGR valve is working as it should?
is modulator looking like a logical suspect at this point?
thanks for the ideas!
on startup, my idle is rock solid/smooth and much higher than 615. as the car is at operating temp, it drops down to a wavering and rumbly ~615.
i tested the EGR valve itself this morning by attaching a long hose to the passenger side port and providing vacuum which caused the car to stumble. i also pinched off the drivers side port of the EGR valve while pulling vacuum and it stalled.
also pinched the line coming down into the VSV which also stalled the car.
does this mean my EGR valve is working as it should?
is modulator looking like a logical suspect at this point?
Directly from the FSM, it sounds like your EGR valve is working correct. Here is the excerpt:
9. INSPECT EGR VALVE
(a) Apply vacuum directly to the EGR valve with the engine
idle.
(b) Check that the engine runs rough or dies.
(c) Reconnect the vacuum hoses to the proper locations.
If no problem is found with this inspection, system is normal;
otherwise inspect each part.
It does sound to me like it could be your modulator. Here is the check out for that component:
18. DISCONNECT VACUUM HOSES FROM EGR VACUUM
MODULATOR
(a) Disconnect the vacuum hose from R port.
(b) Disconnect the vacuum hose from Q port.
(c) Disconnect the vacuum hose from P port.
19. INSPECT EGR VACUUM MODULATOR OPERATION
(a) Block ports P and R with your finger.
(b) Blow air into port Q, and check that the air passes through
to the air filter side freely.
(c) Start the engine, and maintain speed at 2,500 rpm.
(d) Repeat the above test. Check that there is a strong resistance
to air flow.
If operation is not as specified, replace the EGR vacuum modulator.
20. RECONNECT VACUUM HOSES TO EGR VACUUM
MODULATOR
(a) Connect the vacuum hose to R port.
(b) Connect the vacuum hose to Q port.
(c) Connect the vacuum hose to P port.
Brought to you by BirfMark
Post up what you find.
9. INSPECT EGR VALVE
(a) Apply vacuum directly to the EGR valve with the engine
idle.
(b) Check that the engine runs rough or dies.
(c) Reconnect the vacuum hoses to the proper locations.
If no problem is found with this inspection, system is normal;
otherwise inspect each part.
It does sound to me like it could be your modulator. Here is the check out for that component:
18. DISCONNECT VACUUM HOSES FROM EGR VACUUM
MODULATOR
(a) Disconnect the vacuum hose from R port.
(b) Disconnect the vacuum hose from Q port.
(c) Disconnect the vacuum hose from P port.
19. INSPECT EGR VACUUM MODULATOR OPERATION
(a) Block ports P and R with your finger.
(b) Blow air into port Q, and check that the air passes through
to the air filter side freely.
(c) Start the engine, and maintain speed at 2,500 rpm.
(d) Repeat the above test. Check that there is a strong resistance
to air flow.
If operation is not as specified, replace the EGR vacuum modulator.
20. RECONNECT VACUUM HOSES TO EGR VACUUM
MODULATOR
(a) Connect the vacuum hose to R port.
(b) Connect the vacuum hose to Q port.
(c) Connect the vacuum hose to P port.
Brought to you by BirfMark
Post up what you find.
thanks LCHarddriver_02
replaced modulator, p0401 gone! few hundred miles now.
headed to california SMOG test today... wish me luck!
replaced modulator, p0401 gone! few hundred miles now.
headed to california SMOG test today... wish me luck!
That's awesome! I hope the test went well.
Thanks again MUD. Today I tackled my code 71. I opened the Modulator, carbon came out (pic below) so I swapped it with a spare. The spare had no carbon under the cover. To remove the covers I did not twist - that probably would pop it off after it hits the vacuum nipples but a simple lever with a screwdriver pops it off easily. I have reset the CEL and will see if it stays off before I go farther. VSV tested fine last year and motor is mostly otherwise rebuilt so I know the passages in the intake are clear and all hoses are new silicone.
Oldy but a goody and I have a question about the EGR Modulator.
I pulled the 71 code out of my 94 Landcruiser the other night. I then searched Mud and found this thread pointing to the EGR system. I started with the EGR modulator as advised here and found it to be relatively clean. Not a lot of carbon and all the hoses running to it are clear.
I did however find that I could get air flow from the bottom large hose connection to come up out through the filter and also pull it through (vacuum). I understand that this should not be? There is a diaphragm in the lower part of the modulator and I should not be able to lightly blow air through to the top? This means that I probably have a rip or hole in the diaphragm in the modulator and need to replace it? Does that sound correct?
Saw that on this video... off an Avalon but...
I have a really rough idle from time to time, sometimes it dies at idle.
Thanks!
I pulled the 71 code out of my 94 Landcruiser the other night. I then searched Mud and found this thread pointing to the EGR system. I started with the EGR modulator as advised here and found it to be relatively clean. Not a lot of carbon and all the hoses running to it are clear.
I did however find that I could get air flow from the bottom large hose connection to come up out through the filter and also pull it through (vacuum). I understand that this should not be? There is a diaphragm in the lower part of the modulator and I should not be able to lightly blow air through to the top? This means that I probably have a rip or hole in the diaphragm in the modulator and need to replace it? Does that sound correct?
Saw that on this video... off an Avalon but...
I have a really rough idle from time to time, sometimes it dies at idle.
Thanks!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #60
Just checked mine and it holds vacuum and pressure so I would say yours is shot if you can blow through it.
