- Thread starter
- #101
I can post a pic later, they are inside the Currie TJ coils mounted under the frame rail. 40 is REALLY low tho so only about 3” of uptravel
Build Ed’s Un-Did FJ40
- Thread starter Rock40
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- Thread starter
- #102
@peesalot here’s the rear bump setup
- Thread starter
- #104
Rolling chassis!
Spent most of the day fitting the drivetrain. We will certainly need the AA bellhousing as there is ZERO chance of getting a front driveshaft around the stock bellhousing.
This is very close to where the drivetrain is to land tho
Spent most of the day fitting the drivetrain. We will certainly need the AA bellhousing as there is ZERO chance of getting a front driveshaft around the stock bellhousing.
This is very close to where the drivetrain is to land tho
- Thread starter
- #106
It’s where it’s at. With the NV4500 being so long, going any higher will result in the transfer shift linkage hitting the floor under the gas tank. And I’m not talking about the under floor bracing which can be modified but just the sheet metal floor itself. I’ve got a 2.5” body lift on mine to help with that, this one is going on stock body mounts.
On mine the relationship between the top of the trans and the height of the tranny hump was the limiting factor. I feel the guy positioned the whole driveline high as it would go. The 40 has stk body mounts. The top of my rear frame gusset mounts are about an 1" below the top of the frame rail. The mounting bolts have to go in from the bottom. My 4wd shifter is short and bent to come out close to the stk location. I have a pic with the tranny cover off if you'd like to see.
- Thread starter
- #109
Yeah, it’s ALL tight. I’ve used my 40 for reference but it ain’t anywhere near stock but I believe I’ve got it as close as I’m comfortable with. I’m attempting to avoid cutting up the underside of the tub if possible. As this isn’t going to be hardcore wheeler I’m not going to fret about ground clearance. Yes, the transfer case is below the frame a few inches but it’s frankly not that bad. A bit lower will help with the rear driveshaft angle also.
@peesalot you are 100% correct, the rear mounts are in upside down. There just wasn’t a feasible way to mount them correctly AND get the body on without a huge body lift to clear stuff, namely the transfer case low/high range shift shaft.
This is compromise, all of it. The drivetrain from the bellhousing back is just under 35” long and it just was never meant to be under a SWB FJ40
For reference, the whole drivetrain was set at a rearwards 2° angle
@peesalot you are 100% correct, the rear mounts are in upside down. There just wasn’t a feasible way to mount them correctly AND get the body on without a huge body lift to clear stuff, namely the transfer case low/high range shift shaft.
This is compromise, all of it. The drivetrain from the bellhousing back is just under 35” long and it just was never meant to be under a SWB FJ40
For reference, the whole drivetrain was set at a rearwards 2° angle
- Thread starter
- #110
Should also add that there is NO WAY to retain the stock GM bellhousing with the external slave cylinder and still have a 1 piece front driveshaft. I wanted to see how bad it is with a stock bellhousing, now I know. It’s horrible, a driveshaft wouldn’t even fit at static ride height and heaven forbid you ever hit a bump 
If you’re considering an NV4500 FJ40 conversion AND you want a functional 4WD system, you’re going to spend money on a conversion bellhousing which puts the slave cylinder back on the drivers side
If you’re considering an NV4500 FJ40 conversion AND you want a functional 4WD system, you’re going to spend money on a conversion bellhousing which puts the slave cylinder back on the drivers side
Yeah, the hi low shift arm is really close on mine as well. I'm confused as I thought the GM bellhouse had the fork on driver ? I had both sbc & ls with gm bells and both were driver fork. FWIW my ls is at 3* , very similar results , just goes to show there is only so much room in a swb 40 for sure, 4 link in the rear on a stock width axle was a trick but it is done & under testing now. I am either going auto or 4500 so this driveline resolution will be of interest.
- Thread starter
- #112
Huh, IDK about the bell housing stuff, perhaps it changed over the years? Earlier GM NV4500’s have an external slave, I think in ‘96 they became an internal slave.
This ‘95 is definitely a passenger side mount, external slave model. And the slave is BELOW the starter which just leaves no room for a driveshaft.
My guess is that GM clocked whatever transfer case they were mating behind the NV4500 in this generation WAY down in order to clear it
Large aluminum growth on the bottom left is the slave cylinder housing
Inside, looking rearward. Bellhousing facing up. GM used a slave cylinder that I think is about 6” long, it’s mimicked by the aerosol can. All that is external to the bellhousing.
The AA adapter bellhousing moves the slave to the drivers side (like a normal FJ40) and you use an OEM FJ40 slave cylinder. Simple, and pricey
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Too bad it isn't a +96 Nv4500, then you'd be able to use the 00-06 internal slave bellhousing which is the best one.
Can you use the tailhousing/AA adapter and build a crossmember instead of a propellor mount? Not sure if the adapter for single-piece cases has provisions for a mount, I only do split-cases behind engine swaps. That would be a lot better if you can
Can you use the tailhousing/AA adapter and build a crossmember instead of a propellor mount? Not sure if the adapter for single-piece cases has provisions for a mount, I only do split-cases behind engine swaps. That would be a lot better if you can
- Thread starter
- #114
Yes. The AA transmission adapter does have a mount provision for a crossmember. Unfortunately it’s on the underside of the adapter and would hang WAY down below the frame. I’ve seen people do it, and it looks tacky at best IMO. Even with going that route, still wouldn’t be able to go higher with the drivetrain based on the FJ40 floor obstructions using factory body mounts.
WAYYY back in ‘03 when I put AA’s RockBox in mine I literally HAD to install a body lift in order to clear everything
- Thread starter
- #115
This…. Is always a challenge
Broken motor mount? Probably not ever
Broken motor mount? Probably not ever
- Thread starter
- #116
Ever wonder how much filler it takes to weld a set of motor mounts in? These were all 3’ lengths of 1/16” ER70S2. That’s 57’ total, good grief.
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Tigbutton FTW
- Thread starter
- #118
@Ditcherman, that gentleman doesn’t have much of a website. What do they cost?
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Sorry, I don’t remember at all. Not much, compared to doing all the contortions. Very well worth it IMO.
I now just use mine for everything, it’s been very dependable. Many, probably with higher standards, do go back to the pedal when they can. I think @DangerNoodle turned me on to it.
ETA Looks like $285 after a cursory google search.
6061.com
I really like the tig button for AC. I have a tendency to get stuffed in some spots that are pretty much impossible to run a pedal efficiently, so I really like it. I'll do some cage work with it as well, but I like a pedal much more for DC work.
I really like the tig button for AC. I have a tendency to get stuffed in some spots that are pretty much impossible to run a pedal efficiently, so I really like it. I'll do some cage work with it as well, but I like a pedal much more for DC work.