Last one. Ran a skim coat of body filler over everything because this side had been so twisted up. The structural stuff is all underneath and frankly with the extra welds probably stronger than factory. The skim coat just evens the joint out because someone had taken a 10# hammer to this in an attempt to straighten it (unsuccessfully) years ago
Some things are just too WOW to keep to yourself. Probably should get submitted to the “worst upgrade to your 40” thread
This is the rear that originally was on the 40 we are doing, SOA at some point, mounts are gone now
By far, the wildest and poorest rear disc conversion I’ve come across. My guess is the rotors are ‘79-‘85 Toyota mini-truck. And the PO friggin’ WELDED them to the semi-float shafts!
Calipers are mounted on 1/2” thick flame cut brackets and what the calipers are from is anyone’s guess
Cracked the diff open. It’s got a Loc-Rite or similar lunchbox locker.
But the carrier center pin retention bolt? Broken and what appears to be repeatedly staked in place. So….. how was a guy supposed to EVER access a C-clip in order to pull a brake rotor/axle shaft combo? This stuff thrills me
lol! I’m hoping to have the rolling chassis complete end of February if all goes well. We’ll see. Should at least have the frame sitting on the finished axles next week if some additional parts come in.
Ah, the dreaded 'if some additional parts come in' scenario. That's why mine isn't running yet too. I'm waiting for the gear which goes on the new H55 output shaft to the new transfer case. I could use the old one off my current H55, but I want it to be all new. Looks line a late March delivery......
But now I can't get the idea of a receiver hitch in my rear cross member off my mind. So at least I've got more projects.
Oh…. The fiddly stuff that isn’t any fun but needs done. Made plates to fully box the underneath frame rails after the Saginaw kit was done. Essentially to extend the lower about 1.75” to match the other plates
So Ed asked me if I could fully weld the frame crossmember plate (inside the cutout) to prevent any water intrusion. Ummmm, sure. I’m down for bizarre out of the box welding that nobody else is doing I’ll be able to finish the rest once the frame is back to “correct side up”
Pulled the engine off the stand and cleaned up the end of the crank with a wire wheel before taking all the measurements for the input bearing. Found this little bellhousing bolt stinker broken off in the block. Well below the block surface
Fired up the TIG. If you attempt something like this with MIG you’ll be welding yourself straight up a creek
Kept the weld only on the broken bolt, out it came, in pieces. No damage to the block threads
Took all the caliper measurements related to the transmission input shaft and bearing. Determined I’ll need to use the smaller bushing which goes deeper into the crank.
Measure, calculate, then put the trans on the back of the engine and verify. These are boroscope pics and the input bushing will be correct
I really need to clean the input shaft up
Took a quick peek in a cylinder. Ed DID say it was .060 over
Cylinder walls look great tho for a motor that’s sat for well over 2 decades
Clutch alignment tools. The plastic ones are “ok”, lopping the metal shaft off a junk trans is MUCH better and nails the alignment every time. This one is from an SM465
Fresh externally balanced flywheel, ARP fasteners and a new pilot bushing
Used pressure plate and disc. The disc still has factory lettering on both friction sides, stuff has just sat forever. Took a jitterbug sander with 220 and 400 grit to the pressure plate to dust the rust off
Done. Assembled with AeroShell grease, smooth as silk
Front rotors came in. Front axle is certainly a mix of stuff. ‘79-‘85 knuckle outers and birfield, ‘88 Landcruiser rotor, ‘91 4Runner calipers and pads.
Getting set up for engine placement. Think I’m going to need a set of fenders and aprons to verify where the body is actually going to land and maximize drivetrain space
