Build Ed’s Un-Did FJ40
- Thread starter Rock40
- Start date
Member Build Threads
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #122
Well that certainly explains how they were able to snake a driveshaft in there then
- Thread starter
- #123
Finished off the AA motor mounts by welding the locking plates in now that we know where the engine sits left/right between the frame rails.
You’re “supposed” to weld the top side facing upwards but that’s awkward with TIG and the gap is clearly geared towards MIG welding.
Elected to weld the underside instead, plenty strong, believe we settled on about a 3/4” passenger offset
You’re “supposed” to weld the top side facing upwards but that’s awkward with TIG and the gap is clearly geared towards MIG welding.
Elected to weld the underside instead, plenty strong, believe we settled on about a 3/4” passenger offset
- Thread starter
- #124
AA conversion bellhousing is assembled and bolted on…
Fully assembled and bolted the transfer case onto the transmission for good
Started on steering links. I’m reusing some .25” DOM that already has the left/right 7/8”-18 bungs in it. Used to be on my 40 before I switched to 7075, just need to cut a bung loose on both and shorten a bit
Going simple but strong with the steering links. No cobbled nonsense or puny stock joints, these are standard GM 1 ton tie rods and the Toyota steering arms have been reamed for the correct taper. The downside (if it actually is one) is that 15” wheels are out, no way they would clear the tie rod with a 3.5” backspace. Front axle is mocked up now with the Allied 17’s from my M416 trailer
Fully assembled and bolted the transfer case onto the transmission for good
Started on steering links. I’m reusing some .25” DOM that already has the left/right 7/8”-18 bungs in it. Used to be on my 40 before I switched to 7075, just need to cut a bung loose on both and shorten a bit
Going simple but strong with the steering links. No cobbled nonsense or puny stock joints, these are standard GM 1 ton tie rods and the Toyota steering arms have been reamed for the correct taper. The downside (if it actually is one) is that 15” wheels are out, no way they would clear the tie rod with a 3.5” backspace. Front axle is mocked up now with the Allied 17’s from my M416 trailer
Do you happen to have a pic of how much meat is left after reaming out. I have thought about doing that but was not sure how much meat would be left.
Another question. Do you not rosette weld your bungs in? Always thought it was a good idea so they do not pull out.
Great looking work as always.
- Thread starter
- #126
I can get a pic, no problem. On the ‘79-85 mini truck arms there is plenty of meat left after reaming, I think the early drum brake 40 steering arms are quite a bit smaller tho, likely wouldn’t attempt it on those.
I didn’t rosette weld those bungs, no. Triple pass TIG and they were wheeled HARD for over a decade with a PSC ram. If you did rosette weld them, I’d expect to have to run a tap back through them when you’re done.
- Thread starter
- #127
@matzell, here you go. Thinnest part, facing up where the GM taper is widest, is right at .4” Plenty of meat left in my opinion
FYI, I have 1 ton TREs with stock Steelie 15s....
Real close, but they fit.
Worth a try mocking up if you really want the 15s
Real close, but they fit.
Worth a try mocking up if you really want the 15s
- Thread starter
- #129
Ok, good to know. Not really after 15”s at this point, especially since Ed is aiming for 35”s. I think he’s got his eye on a set of 17” TrailReady’s
- Thread starter
- #130
In….for the last time. AA bellhousing solved all the front driveshaft clearance problems
So clean
- Thread starter
- #132
Back at this. Lots to do, time to make a driveshaft or two tho.
Ed has 2 full sets of FJ40 driveshafts so I ought to be able to make 2 good ones out of that.
First one is getting shortened for the rear. Lopped the pinion side off
It’s cut with about 1.25” of tubing left on the yoke. That way you can carefully cut it and split it off without damaging the yoke underneath
And this is almost as bad as it gets in terms of gross and tedious. Took a few hours to successfully remove the old original u-joints in the press without damaging anything
Then washed and blasted the bits, need to order new joints
Ed has 2 full sets of FJ40 driveshafts so I ought to be able to make 2 good ones out of that.
First one is getting shortened for the rear. Lopped the pinion side off
It’s cut with about 1.25” of tubing left on the yoke. That way you can carefully cut it and split it off without damaging the yoke underneath
And this is almost as bad as it gets in terms of gross and tedious. Took a few hours to successfully remove the old original u-joints in the press without damaging anything
Then washed and blasted the bits, need to order new joints
- Thread starter
- #133
Got the brake lines for the axles done
And the front/rear driveshaft parts are all prepped. Somehow ended up with an oddball Toyota shaft (wrong flange pattern and larger u-joints) so in the end, all 4 shafts came apart. Also found one damaged slip yoke.
New DOM to extend the front shaft is on order
And the front/rear driveshaft parts are all prepped. Somehow ended up with an oddball Toyota shaft (wrong flange pattern and larger u-joints) so in the end, all 4 shafts came apart. Also found one damaged slip yoke.
New DOM to extend the front shaft is on order
- Thread starter
- #134
More small stuff.
Shortened the rear driveshaft and re-welded it. Overall length will be 18.5”
Welded the tie rod and drag link bungs in for good. That’s .25” wall DOM with a double pass
Reamed the pitman arm to the correct GM taper for the drag link
Shortened the rear driveshaft and re-welded it. Overall length will be 18.5”
Welded the tie rod and drag link bungs in for good. That’s .25” wall DOM with a double pass
Reamed the pitman arm to the correct GM taper for the drag link
- Thread starter
- #135
Dual stainless exhaust is next 
- Thread starter
- #136
Goodness. Waiting on parts, again
Beautiful work. What are you using to paint everything? Or is it a coating?
- Thread starter
- #138
Thx!
It’s Steel-It paint. 1 coat, no primer, weldable. Just has to be a DA’d or blasted surface
Noted. The finish looks fantastic
- Thread starter
- #140
Agreed, it is. And it lays down very smooth and is extremely heat resistant. I’ve welded on it and right next to it and it pretty much remains unchanged. Just a bit pricey at $30 per can