Now you're the resident expert / the guy who did it last & you can field all the harness questions.
Coming off the backside do you see now how it's a no-brainer when you actually have the parts in front of you?
E Locker Wiring Help
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Now you're the resident expert / the guy who did it last & you can field all the harness questions.
Coming off the backside do you see now how it's a no-brainer when you actually have the parts in front of you?
I just did this swap and found that the most cost effective way for the wiring was to get a used harness. You could just buy the wiring pins and connectors but you will spend alot more than the harness.
I bought a used lx450 floor harness that had the 5 extra wires running from drivers kick panel connector to drivers rear connector, by the jack.
On the donor harness, I depined the wires at the kick panel white connector and chopped them at the rear connector by the jack.
I then took apart the entire harness and saved just the 5 wires running from front to back with the 5 pins still attached.
I found a male connector on the donor harness that would to plug into the factory female connector on the rear locker harness that I swapped in. It only had 5 wires used out of the 6. I depined the wires in the connector and moved them around to suit the proper gauge of thickness. ( Two of the locker wires are larger for power)
Soldered that male connector to the 5 wires. (make sure to heat shrink and dielectric grease that connection)
I ran a separate wire loom right along the factory unlocked floor harness to the front.
At the front connector I simply pinned the 5 wires into my unlocked connector.
For the cluster you have to remove it and install 2 light bulbs / sockets. A quick trip to the junk yard to find any old toyota cluster will yield the bulbs and sockets. Get a few extra in case any of your bulbs are burnt. (the cluster can be removed without removing steering wheel, just search)
Installed the factory ecu, and magic dial.
I used the 96 FSM electrical drawings that had the connector pinouts. Note: some of the wire colors may be different so pay attention to the pin locations. Its also a good idea to dialect grease all of the connections.
This thread explains the 5 wires. retro-fitting OEM lockers -Wiring Harness
Installing Factory Electric Lockers Into a 1993 FZJ80 That Did Not Come With Them From The Factory
good luck!
I bought a used lx450 floor harness that had the 5 extra wires running from drivers kick panel connector to drivers rear connector, by the jack.
On the donor harness, I depined the wires at the kick panel white connector and chopped them at the rear connector by the jack.
I then took apart the entire harness and saved just the 5 wires running from front to back with the 5 pins still attached.
I found a male connector on the donor harness that would to plug into the factory female connector on the rear locker harness that I swapped in. It only had 5 wires used out of the 6. I depined the wires in the connector and moved them around to suit the proper gauge of thickness. ( Two of the locker wires are larger for power)
Soldered that male connector to the 5 wires. (make sure to heat shrink and dielectric grease that connection)
I ran a separate wire loom right along the factory unlocked floor harness to the front.
At the front connector I simply pinned the 5 wires into my unlocked connector.
For the cluster you have to remove it and install 2 light bulbs / sockets. A quick trip to the junk yard to find any old toyota cluster will yield the bulbs and sockets. Get a few extra in case any of your bulbs are burnt. (the cluster can be removed without removing steering wheel, just search)
Installed the factory ecu, and magic dial.
I used the 96 FSM electrical drawings that had the connector pinouts. Note: some of the wire colors may be different so pay attention to the pin locations. Its also a good idea to dialect grease all of the connections.
This thread explains the 5 wires. retro-fitting OEM lockers -Wiring Harness
Installing Factory Electric Lockers Into a 1993 FZJ80 That Did Not Come With Them From The Factory
good luck!
The LX harness physically plugs in to a LC. It is less work to just compare wiring diagrams and move the relevant pins around.
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well I broke the entire axles down for rebuild. Then I pressure washed several times. After all the gunk was off them I went over thoroughly with a wire wheel. Ended up painting them with rustoleum engine enamel. Came out great actually. Painted the knuckles, tie rod drag link, panhards, upper/lower rear links, radius arms etc. All look new now.
Thanks for the post! Its info like this that gives me as a newer 80 owner the confidence to get er done!
So why am I pulling the seat and console? The harness just goes to the drivers side kick panel. Am I missing something?
This is it, correct? Has at least 4 connectors and washer fluid to the back hatch
Yeah that's it! Only pull seat to gain access to plugs if replacing entire harness
Yes, you are missing something.
There is a branch off the floor harness that goes to the seat and console. You'll need to pull the seat to lift the carpet enough to release the locating clips, and the console to unhook a connector that joins the branch with the console electronics (abs sensor, shift interlock, etc) and the floor harness on the other side of the truck.
Got it. Thanks!
I have thread on here detailing how to swap the OEM locker harnesses.
I just read through your post. I was able to remove the main harness from the ds kick panel to the jack from my locked 95 still need to remove the rear sill harness. Then remove the same from my 97 and get them swapped. I have moved the ps ecu from the 95 to the 97 and pulled the switch ready to install in the 97. Your writeup helped a ton. Thanks for taking the time to post it! Need to start spraying the nuts and bolts on both in preperation for the actual axle swap
For the axle swap I would have new sway bar bushings, maybe upgrade tie rod bar / ends etc.
Chances are you will find some hidden issues that will make sense to do while apart.
Also Toyota recommends to not reuse certain bolts like pan hard, and control arms. I know alot of people have no issues however. A paint pen helps after you torque everything so you don't miss something. Be safe! Mark drive shaft orientations etc.
I would also get a mighty vac for brake bleeding.
Chances are you will find some hidden issues that will make sense to do while apart.
Also Toyota recommends to not reuse certain bolts like pan hard, and control arms. I know alot of people have no issues however. A paint pen helps after you torque everything so you don't miss something. Be safe! Mark drive shaft orientations etc.
I would also get a mighty vac for brake bleeding.
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