Builds DUKE - 1993 HDJ80 / 1HD-T / 5-Speed / 3x Locked / LHD *A slow DIY build / resto* (6 Viewers)

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and yeah... can’t really register in California.
Wy not? I registered mine. Actually did a fuel swap on an register vehicle. Try taking it to a remote place in the central valley (Merced, Stockton) and I think they will let you go through. LA area will send you to a ref station.
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Permanent Montana plates…why would anyone ever register it anyplace after that??
 
Well.... it happens. User error. Major regret... but I already found a straight door. Now I’m just looking for a nice front drivers quitter panel.

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the truck has had troubles running at startup... it would slowly die at points...

after investigating, I found my fuel system was leaking and losing pressure. it was letting air in But hard to tell where. I would build pressure using the hand pump on the fuel filter, but after a minute it would lose pressure.

I proceeded to re build my pre filter system (racor 500fg) with all new seals and a new drain plug. I lso replaced all of the rubber fuel hoses and clamps. A new OEM fuel filter was swapped in as well... but...

after reassembling I found that the low level sensor at the bottom of the OEM filter was leaking... so I have a new sensor inbound.

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Backing up with the door open? By the way, do yuhave cruise control in your rig?
Yup.... too busy looking behind me to realize I didn’t close the door all the way. Hit my fence in the driveway 😂

I do not have cruise control... just the hand throttle I’ll come times use as cruise control haha
 
Yup.... too busy looking behind me to realize I didn’t close the door all the way. Hit my fence in the driveway 😂

I do not have cruise control... just the hand throttle I’ll come times use as cruise control haha
All the harnesses are there. The servo can come out of a 91/92 FJ80, and the CC computer as well. On the 93/97 FZJ80 the servo and throttle cables routing is different. I think the steering column has the harness and screw location to install the lever switch. The cable from the servo to the throttle is discontinued, but I have a shop that has the drawings and can make one. Driving 1000 miles a day, it is really nice to have it. Unlike AT that shifts down, once in 5th gear at 65/70 mph it just cruses.

Hahaha, one more project....

By the way, are you an Overland Bound member?
 
All the harnesses are there. The servo can come out of a 91/92 FJ80, and the CC computer as well. On the 93/97 FZJ80 the servo and throttle cables routing is different. I think the steering column has the harness and screw location to install the lever switch. The cable from the servo to the throttle is discontinued, but I have a shop that has the drawings and can make one. Driving 1000 miles a day, it is really nice to have it. Unlike AT that shifts down, once in 5th gear at 65/70 mph it just cruses.

Hahaha, one more project....

By the way, are you an Overland Bound member?
Wow I’m going to have to look into that... my leg gets exhausted while cruisimg on those long trips.

I am!
 
Wow I’m going to have to look into that... my leg gets exhausted while cruisimg on those long trips.

I am!
hey, if you need help sourcing parts, LMK. behind the driver lower panel, there is a rectangular gray connector (C17) that plugs to the CC computer. On the driver side between the firewall and the air box there is a oval gray connector (C4). You want to be sure they are there before you start.

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the fender needed to come off because it was bent enough to prohibit the door from opening and closing. I removed both front quarter panels and discovered some patches from a snorkel this thing had in the past... WILD!

I cleaned them up and hit them with some rust reformer and rustoleum.

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hey, if you need help sourcing parts, LMK. behind the driver lower panel, there is a rectangular gray connector (C17) that plugs to the CC computer. On the driver side between the firewall and the air box there is a oval gray connector (C4). You want to be sure they are there before you start.

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Hey quick question! Do you know if the fuel hand primer pump should stay stiff and hold pressure once primed? Or should the pressure fall off after a minute or so?
 
Hey quick question! Do you know if the fuel hand primer pump should stay stiff and hold pressure once primed? Or should the pressure fall off after a minute or so?
I think it should hold the pressure. But not 100% sure. I can check on mine and let you know.
 
Installed the new 1upUSA bike rack on the swing out.... the hitch receivers corners were too tight... had to file the inside of the time to get it to fit... Now it’s snug as a bug.
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the truck has had troubles running at startup... it would slowly die at points...

after investigating, I found my fuel system was leaking and losing pressure. it was letting air in But hard to tell where. I would build pressure using the hand pump on the fuel filter, but after a minute it would lose pressure.

I proceeded to re build my pre filter system (racor 500fg) with all new seals and a new drain plug. I lso replaced all of the rubber fuel hoses and clamps. A new OEM fuel filter was swapped in as well... but...

after reassembling I found that the low level sensor at the bottom of the OEM filter was leaking... so I have a new sensor inbound.

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Building on this fueling issue:

after replacing the bottom sensor on the OEM filter (which seemed to be leaking) ANDA rebuilding the rancor unit with a new seal kit, there seemed to stil be loss of pressure!

I also replaced all hoses and clamps in the engine bay related to the fuel system.

I removed the racor unit and run it with just the OEM setup, and it runs great and hold pressure like it should.

I have rebuilt the Racor AGAIN while also using some high temp thread sealant on the in and out ports of the filter. I am letting that cure for a few days before running fuel through it. I will reinstall it when I receive my new OEM primer pump and fuel filter housing.
 
Building on this fueling issue:

after replacing the bottom sensor on the OEM filter (which seemed to be leaking) ANDA rebuilding the rancor unit with a new seal kit, there seemed to stil be loss of pressure!

I also replaced all hoses and clamps in the engine bay related to the fuel system.

I removed the racor unit and run it with just the OEM setup, and it runs great and hold pressure like it should.

I have rebuilt the Racor AGAIN while also using some high temp thread sealant on the in and out ports of the filter. I am letting that cure for a few days before running fuel through it. I will reinstall it when I receive my new OEM primer pump and fuel filter housing.
Bryce,

Have you ever rebuilt the IP or injectors? Do you know the history of this engine?

If you need a IP/injectors rebuilt shop, I know of a professional one with very reasonable prices in Portland.

Cheers mate.
 
Bryce,

Have you ever rebuilt the IP or injectors? Do you know the history of this engine?

If you need a IP/injectors rebuilt shop, I know of a professional one with very reasonable prices in Portland.

Cheers mate.
I personally have not had anything rebuilt and do not know the history of the truck at all.

I will say that my IP has enough grease marker marks on it to tell me that the IP has been rebuilt at some point in the last few years... but that’s all I know
 

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