DT Headers install price range

[Saluqui]

Hi Guys,
What’s a fair price range for a shop to chargeto replace both exhaust manifolds with DT headers( customer supplied). 2000LC.Thanks!

Hi Guys,
What’s a fair price range for a shop to chargeto replace both exhaust manifolds with DT headers( customer supplied). 2000LC.Thanks!

Oh, and can you recommend a shop in N. Colorado?

 

[Berkut10r]

Fair range...how rich are you? Do you have limbs, organs or unwanted relatives that you can offer up? Mine was about $2500, several bolts were seized and turned into an almost engine out job. Normal range is $1K and up from what folks here posted up. If your rig is spotless and all bolts come off easy, you may get away in $750 range. Unicorn scenario, Yota tech/specialist who wrenches at his house and has a lift.

 

[Saluqui]

Fair range...how rich are you? Do you have limbs, organs or unwanted relatives that you can offer up? Mine was about $2500, several bolts were seized and turned into an almost engine out job. Normal range is $1K and up from what folks here posted up. If your rig is spotless and all bolts come off easy, you may get away in $750 range. Unicorn scenario, Yota tech/specialist who wrenches at his house and has a lift.

Thanks. No richer than any other 25 year old LC owner. Haha! Yea, I think the blasting with free all for 24 hrs and using Matco spline socket is wisee advice from the Otram guy.

 

[Berkut10r]

Thanks. No richer than any other 25 year old LC owner. Haha! Yea, I think the blasting with free all for 24 hrs and using Matco spline socket is wisee advice from the Otram guy.

Ryan knows hardship, he rarely gets a rust free vehicle being in NoVA.

 

[Saluqui]

Ryan knows hardship, he rarely gets a rust free vehicle being in NoVA.

Nova?

 

[76FJ40]

Northern Virginia

 

[donco]

I repaired the cracked passenger side stock header before I learned OBD2 systems extended the warrantee to 100k miles and missed the window to have the dealer do them back then. The passenger side was fairly easy and I also installed a block heater at the same time. Just last summer I started on the driver's side, got part way into it and said no way in Hell and put it back together. I still have a screw I left out from the heat shield in my tool box if someone else does the job for me. At 259k miles, I have learned to live with the cold start ticking noise from the header until it warms up or the engine needs to come out for other reasons. DT headers, as nice as they would be, will have to wait. I can live with a little loss of power and less mpg's for the time being.

 

[AARONTLC]

Thanks. No richer than any other 25 year old LC owner. Haha! Yea, I think the blasting with free all for 24 hrs and using Matco spline socket is wisee advice from the Otram guy.

I purchased a 14mm shallow and deep well socket from Matco. Matco calls them “nonslip” sockets.

Edit: I did my drivers side last year. I personally did not think it was that bad of a job. The most important thing I did to make it easier was to loosen all the motor mounts and jack the engine up to the thickness of a 2x4. Purchase all new hardware.

 

[Dparo]

I paid $600 central Kentucky about five years ago. Slee will not do the install, FYI.

 

[Saluqui]

I paid $600 central Kentucky about five years ago. Slee will not do the install, FYI.

Thanks for the info. Too bad about Slee.

 

[Saluqui]

Thanks for the info. Too bad about Slee.

Do folks always wait for the "ticking" to get this done,or is it a preemptive thing at certain milage? Thanks!

 

[Eyedaho]

I repaired the cracked passenger side stock header before I learned OBD2 systems extended the warrantee to 100k miles and missed the window to have the dealer do them back then. The passenger side was fairly easy and I also installed a block heater at the same time. Just last summer I started on the driver's side, got part way into it and said no way in Hell and put it back together. I still have a screw I left out from the heat shield in my tool box if someone else does the job for me. At 259k miles, I have learned to live with the cold start ticking noise from the header until it warms up or the engine needs to come out for other reasons. DT headers, as nice as they would be, will have to wait. I can live with a little loss of power and less mpg's for the time being.

Is there any documented evidence of the DT headers increasing power or fuel economy?

 

[Dparo]

I know the end of the ticking alone makes it worth it.

 

[Saluqui]

I know the end of the ticking alone makes it worth it.

Haha! Yes

 

[jaewastooshort]

Is there any documented evidence of the DT headers increasing power or fuel economy?

Not sure that it's increased vs "proper" stock, rather that the air leak caused by cracked headers causes the O2 sensors to read artificially lean (extra air) which causes the computer to compensate (when it doesn't need it in reality), which drops power/fuel economy. The "increase" is really just restoration to what it should be vs having cracked factory manifolds.

 

[Saluqui]

Thanks for the info. Too bad about Slee.

Slee said they would do it!. They're just down the road from me.

 

[GTV]

Is there any documented evidence of the DT headers increasing power or fuel economy?

There is an old thread here that did a before and after dyno. I’ll let you find it The factory log manifolds are very restrictive, they are designed primarily for durability, ease of manufacture and cost. Theoretically the engine will become more efficient and therefore fuel mileage will improve. But don’t expect miracles.

 

[Qmulus]

I did the job on my 341k mile '01 (was a TX and CO vehicle its whole life) a couple of weeks ago in my driveway. The right side took about 45 minutes to remove and reinstall the Dorman replacement manifold. The nuts came off by hand after cracking them free. Same with the original shields that were in perfect condition. The left side had been done before, and was a bit tougher with the steering shaft, harnesses and dipstick tube, as well as that the nuts were tighter, so I needed more than a wrench to crack them free. I used an assortment of 14mm sockets, extensions wobbles and U joints to get them. That side took about four hours. I could do it quicker now. It helped to remove the wheel and inner fender well plastic shield. I hate to think how it would have been to do these on a rust belt vehicle., but this was honestly pretty darn easy when all was said and done. Do note that I put in direct replacements, not the headers. I would bet the left side would be a real PITA to get a header in without removing the steering shaft and maybe jacking up the engine for clearance.

 

[Dparo]

Slee said they would do it!. They're just down the road from me.

Interesting. I wonder what changed.

 

[GTV]

Interesting. I wonder what changed.

A new tech that’s willing.