Drove an hour. Stopped to fill up. Crank but no start. (1 Viewer)

[morganism]

Hmm, r u getting weird dash light flashing? 4runners have a bad metal fatigue prob w the major contact on the bottom of the fuse box in the engine compartment.

Keep an eye on the alt wire and the pos batt fusible links. If they are getting hot, then def a ground issue somewhere.

Is the vehicle garaged usually? Cuz the rear vents can leak down onto the connectors in the rear cargo area, D pillar, drivers side.
Since you are finally getting some rain, cud b that or the clogged sunroof vents. They can be cleaned with weed whacker cord. But if they, or the windshield vents are plugged down inside at the body drains, it can leak down onto dash grounds and computers too....

 

[nsaladin]

Alright, it happened again.

Here’s a video of the symptoms

Imgur: The magic of the Internet

 

[Ninja Cruiser100]

I going to guess immobilized in key or the fuse box relay. There are threads that discuss this.

 

[nsaladin]

I going to guess immobilized in key or the fuse box relay. There are threads that discuss this.

Well, I have tried both keys without luck. Waiting until I get my hands on scan tool and meter and only have basic tools with me, so I can't remove the fuse box until I have all my tools.

 

[jlovold]

When you turn the key to the "on" position, do you hear the fuel-pump priming? If not, and it is not the EFI-fuse, your fuse-Box probably has a bad connection between the EFI-fuse and the EFI-relay . Which means that you need a new fuse-box.

Or, you could "cheat", and do a simple, cheap fix, which will probably last for the rest of the life of the car:
My immobilizer fix

 

[medtro]

Alright, it happened again.

Here’s a video of the symptoms

Imgur: The magic of the Internet

Your check engine light stays on while cranking, you should check your crank sensor.

It looks like you held the key at START position while cranking, you don't have to hold the key at START position with the crank hold feature that is in your vehicle.

 

[nsaladin]

Your check engine light stays on while cranking, you should check your crank sensor.

It looks like you held the key at START position while cranking, you don't have to hold the key at START position with the crank hold feature that is in your vehicle.

That check engine light is from this issue I had last year, that I haven’t fixed. Unrelated, I think.

P0500 Speed Sensor A

I used the factory service manual and diagnosed a bad fuel pump was this issue for the original topic of this thread

I guess I’ll work on the vehicle speed sensor issue next.

 

[2001LC]

When you turn the key to the "on" position, do you hear the fuel-pump priming?

FWIW: This is common misconception. We do hear motor(s) running, brake booster pump motor is most heard. But the fuel pump will only run while engine cranking.
Draining Fuel from gas tank?

 

[jlovold]

FWIW: This is common misconception. We do hear motor(s) running, brake booster pump motor is most heard. But the fuel pump will only run while engine cranking.
Draining Fuel from gas tank?

Possibly… But still, when the EFI-relay was not Powered, I heard no whine.

FWIW: This is common misconception. We do hear motor(s) running, brake booster pump motor is most heard. But the fuel pump will only run while engine cranking.
Draining Fuel from gas tank?

http://lit.ie/News/News Documents/ETTA-ENGINEERING-TOPIC-2015-student.pdf
Pages 5,6,7,8,9.

My understanding, as a non-mechanic, is that the fuel-system is pressurized when the key is put to on. If not, it would take some churning before the engine would start...
Also, I would not be surprised if safety-measures are in Place to stop the fuel-pump from pumping if pressure-increase in the system is not noted.

AFAIK, the brake booster is not functioning unless the engine is running. And when the EFI-relay is not working, you get no "click" from it, and you hear no sound from the car. I find it illogical to have the brake-booster controlled by the EFI-relay, and can not recall the brake-pedal being sucked in unless engine is running.

 

[blatant]

It looks like you held the key at START position while cranking, you don't have to hold the key at START position with the crank hold feature that is in your vehicle.

When did this start? What year(s)? Thank you

 

[morganism]

from my Corolla problems

The IGf signal is generated by the igniter on EFI/TCCS systems. The ECU supplies a 5 volt reference through a pull-up resistor to the lGf signal generation circuit in the igniter. When a spark plug fires, the IGf signal generation circuit pulls the five volts to ground, causing a pulse to be sensed at the ECU. One pulse is generated by the igniter for each ignition event which is carried out.

The IGf signal confirms that ignition has actually occurred. In the event of a failure to trigger an ignition event, the ECU will shut down injector pulses to protect the catalyst from flooding with raw fuel. Typically this failsafe shutdown occurs within eight to eleven IGt signals after the IGf signal is lost. This condition can occur with any primary ignition system fault, an igniter failure, a problem with the IGf circuit wiring, or with a faulty ECU."

"
There are three signals which are necessary to operate the fuel injectors. These are the Ne, G, and IGf signals. Inside the ECU, the Ne Signal is used to produce an injection chive signal. The G signal is used to determine the timing of the injection signals. The IGf signal is monitored for fuel delivery fail-safe. (With Conventional EFI, the IG signal is used to produce the injection drive signal.)

The ECU cannot pulse the injector without an Ne signal and will not start or run if this signal is not present. If the G signal is not present while cranking the engine, the ECU will not be able to identify when to produce the injection signal. The result will be the same, no injection pulse. If the IGf signal is not present, the ECU will go into fuel fail-safe by stopping injection pulses.

If, however, the ECU loses the G signal with the engine running, the engine will continue to run because the timing of injection signals is locked in once the engine starts."

LGf Signal - Toyota Engine Control Systems - Toyota Service Blog


edit: Pull the glovebox, and look at the harness going to the ECU, it runs over a rough metal edge in there somewhere IIRC.

 

[2001LC]

Possibly… But still, when the EFI-relay was not Powered, I heard no whine.


http://lit.ie/News/News Documents/ETTA-ENGINEERING-TOPIC-2015-student.pdf
Pages 5,6,7,8,9.

My understanding, as a non-mechanic, is that the fuel-system is pressurized when the key is put to on. If not, it would take some churning before the engine would start...
Also, I would not be surprised if safety-measures are in Place to stop the fuel-pump from pumping if pressure-increase in the system is not noted.

AFAIK, the brake booster is not functioning unless the engine is running. And when the EFI-relay is not working, you get no "click" from it, and you hear no sound from the car. I find it illogical to have the brake-booster controlled by the EFI-relay, and can not recall the brake-pedal being sucked in unless engine is running.

First, thank you for the link, cool stuff!

Actual the system holds fuel from end to end including in the injectors with some pressure. Interestingly, if injector are leaky we get a condition of long crank (hard start) until pressure comes back up while cranking

I once thought fuel pump fire up the moment IG was on, and if we wait a moment or two before cranking with IG on it helped fuel pressure build. Until I tried to empty my gas tank by disconnect fuel line down stream of fuel filter at the quick connect. Then I turned IC to on. Nothing happened, until I cranked the engine by turning IG to start. Which I determined would be way to hard on my starter, just to get ~5 gallons out of the gas tank. As it would have take 100's of auto cranks to do the job.

Easy to test yourself by disconnect the fuel line quick connect. Just be careful to release fuel pressure first or you'll get some spray/spillage. Then turn IG to on.

Brake booster is designed to be powered anytime the key is on. Which is one of the reasons for electrical booster. This insures full brake pressure during a dead stick condition, like when out of gas. You can test this very easily. With IG off pump brake pedal 40 times, evacuating accumulator of fluid. Now look at level in brake reservoir, it should be at maximum line and no higher. These instructions are embossed on the brake reservoir, which so many even shops fail to read. Now to test that brake booster system is function properly, system has been properly bleed (no air) and/or system is leak free (holding pressure) we time how long booster motor runs. Spec is 30 to 40 seconds (no more or no less) on the 100 series. To do this timing test; just turn IG to on and start timing, stop when you hear booster motor stop. Note: it is not unusual to hear motor pause once or twice.

 

[2001LC]

When did this start? What year(s)? Thank you

IIRC 2003 was first year.

 

[medtro]

When did this start? What year(s)? Thank you

I know 2003, 2004 & 2007 have it.

 

[medtro]

I once thought fuel pump fire up the moment IG was on, and if we wait a moment or two before cranking with IG on it helped fuel pressure build. Until I tried to empty my gas tank by disconnect fuel line down stream of fuel filter at the quick connect. Then I turned IC to on. Nothing happened, until I cranked the engine by turning IG to start. Which I determined would be way to hard on my starter, just to get ~5 gallons out of the gas tank. As it would have take 100's of auto cranks to do the job.

You can bypass the C/OPN relay to get fuel pump operates without cranking the engine.

 

[2001LC]

You can bypass the C/OPN relay to get fuel pump operates without cranking the engine.

Be very cool if you posted detailed instruction with pictures here at Draining Fuel from gas tank?

Sorry OP didn't mean to hijack your thread.

 

[medtro]

Be very cool if you posted detailed instruction with pictures here at Draining Fuel from gas tank?

Sorry OP didn't mean to hijack your thread.

Done. Posted here.

 

[nsaladin]

Alright, diagnosed it as a bad fuel pump using the FSM. Truck starts every time now without hesitation, and now that I look back, the car was sputtering a little bit when driving, but wasn't super noticeable. I also ended up taking out the carpet and removing the 3rd party DVD player, iPod hookup, power inverter, and all associated wiring all the way to the battery. Lo and behold, the check engine light thats been on for a year plus has been off for well over 150 miles and driving and 10 starts, see this thread: P0500 Speed Sensor A

 

[2001LC]

Alright, diagnosed it as a bad fuel pump using the FSM. Truck starts every time now without hesitation, and now that I look back, the car was sputtering a little bit when driving, but wasn't super noticeable. I also ended up taking out the carpet and removing the 3rd party DVD player, iPod hookup, power inverter, and all associated wiring all the way to the battery. Lo and behold, the check engine light thats been on for a year plus has been off for well over 150 miles and driving and 10 starts, see this thread: P0500 Speed Sensor A

Good job!
I hate aftermarket wiring, it so often causes problems.

 

[jerryb]

and if everyone, mostly toyota, would put an easy port on the rail everyone would be happier. (consumer, enthusiast)

The booster and pump stuff above is backwards. I don't mean to point that out specifically but you will never hear a stock toyota pump running in an LC LX without the carpet up and the top cover off.
Mr Paul, if you try the C open relay method let me know.

anyone planing on keeping their LC long term should look into acquiring a longer bajo bolt and a QD to mount a gauge for testing. It is extremely handy.

the fuel rail volume does not drain away at zero gauge pressure. That is what makes your car start in 3 seconds. Pressure rises instantly.