Driving With Parking Brake On

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HoffLarr

HoffLarr

10 Year
Joined
Sep 7, 2012
Threads
39
Messages
766
Location
Edmonton, Canada, T5E-5R9
I just wanted to share this experience with the group in case it happens to someone elese. I searched the posts after it happened to me and did not find the info that would have saved me the trouble I went through but it was a good experience.

So, I was running a couple of errands with the 45 when I left the parking lot and drove away. I got out of the parking lot and down the street a bit when I started to smell something. I knew something was wrong and iommediately thought it was the trasfer case as I had taken off the PTO cover to see if I had the PTO gear earlier. I looked for a place to pull over and there was a gas station ahead so I thought I would go till then. I then heard some strange noises and then it seamed to drive normal again.

I still pulled into the station and parked and though "Oh my God" I hope I didn't royally screw something up! I looked around the cab and immediately noticed that I had not let off the parking brake. I disengaged it and thought that whatever I had broken in it, it was not hampering anything now, so I drove it the short way home with no issue.

I figured I must have broken a spring or worse in the parking brake, so I wanted to have a look at it before I drove too much more.

The whole assembly care apart pretty easy except for that damned staked nut holding the drum on. Once I figured out how to get that nut off, I found that everything inside the brake was perfectly fine.

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What had happened was that the adjustment had popped out and the brake would not engage. So, after I put it all back together, all I had to do was to readjust the brakes so that the pads would make contact with the drum.

So, if you ever end up in this situation, try to readjust the brake before you tear into it if everything else seems to be fine!

By the way, my rubber cover that goes over the adjustment nut is worn out. Does any one know if a new one can be obtained still?

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DSC02586.webp
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yes, the rubbers should still be available. don't feel bad...everyone has done it. i learned real quick in cold weather states not to set the brake when it's real cold out because the shoes can freeze to the drum and won't disengage.
 
HoffLarr said:
... and immediately noticed that I had not let off the parking brake. ...
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Never admit that it was an accident! When you have passengers, say something like: I noticed the e-brake wasn't gripping as well as it could, so, I bedded it in a bit, sorry for the smoke/noise, part of the process!:hillbilly:
 
I have done that several times on the trail - even though I have the warning light :rolleyes: still happens about once or twice a year

I blame it on being overcome by excitement :steer: :hillbilly:

never took the brake apart - the transfer case is leaking onto the brake as it were and it doesn't hold too well when the truck is hot :meh:
 
nuclearlemon said:
because the shoes can freeze to the drum and won't disengage.
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I grew up on the east coast and we had a lot slush in the winter. It would get into the e-brake cable and freeze so most people wouldn't use their e-brake in the winter.

Out west we very seldom get slush so I don't worry about it anymore and have never had an e-brake freeze up.

Never heard of the shoes freezing to the drums.
 
For that grommet just use some insertion rubber and wad punches to make your own.

That what I did and I've found it lasts even longer than the real thing (besides working just as well at sealing the gap to stop dust/dirt entering).

:beer:
 
lostmarbles: what's insertion rubber? Is that like sheet rubber, i.e., old inner tubing?
 
Yes, the rubber adjuster grommet, return springs, shoes & drum are still readily available from Toyota. Just did a p-brake job last week.

BTW, make the p-brake warning light function so this doesn't happen again.
 
Blue77FJ40 said:
lostmarbles: what's insertion rubber? Is that like sheet rubber, i.e., old inner tubing?
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Sorry. I was just going by the name we always used for it when I was in the refrigeration trade (when I used to regularly make gaskets for the end plates on shell-and-tube condensers from it).

It's sheet rubber that is reinforced with fabric.

Neoprene insertion rubber is the type I always prefer due to its longer life compared to natural rubber.

http://www.thorndonrubber.com/sheeting#.

Inner tubing rubber is natural rubber so it perishes quite fast. Not only that, it's too soft and too thin and has no inner reinforcing-fabric (so I find little use for used inner tubes other than for making strips to temporarily tie up plants in the garden).

I think the insertion rubber I used would have been about 3/16" thick and the centre-hole needs to be a tight fit on the brake-adjustment-hex so that it slips into the indent and gets held there solidly.

:beer:
 
Better yet-fit an '81-'84 axle handbrake. Mine works so well that the truck won't move with it on, so I can't forget it.
 
Anytime I do it I just tell my wife "that semi truck's brakes sure are hot, smell them?" Last time we pulled up to a light next to him and she told him all about how his left rear wheel was smoking. In my rear view mirror I saw him pull over... I don't tell her that anymore!
 
Thanks guys for all of the replies.

BTW, make the p-brake warning light function so this doesn't happen again.
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Actually the light works. It goes out when your foot is on the brake pedal though, so when I was in the parking lot getting ready to go, it was out. I did not notice it while I was driving since I was looking at the road and the light is not in a easy place to see being under the dash and all.

The thing that worried me about the situation was the sound that it made when it let go; it really sounded like something had broken inside the brake.

Yes, the rubber adjuster grommet, return springs, shoes & drum are still readily available from Toyota. Just did a p-brake job last week
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Any idea how much the grommet was and a part number? It's the only piece I need.

I guess any grommet of the right size would work, just drill a hole in it, but if they are still available, I might as well get one.

:cheers:
 
HoffLarr said:
Actually the light works. It goes out when your foot is on the brake pedal though...
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that's not how it works on my truck ('72) - unless I release the handbrake, the light stays on

is that different on later year models ? or maybe your switch at the handbrake needs adjustment ?
 
I did go out and double-check it and that is indeed how it works. A bit strange to me as normally when I get in, the first thing I do is hit the brake and depress the clutch so that I am ready to start it. Then once it is started I disengage the P-brake.

Thanks Jim for the part number.
 
DSRTRDR said:
that's not how it works on my truck ('72) - unless I release the handbrake, the light stays on

is that different on later year models ? or maybe your switch at the handbrake needs adjustment ?
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My 1979 BJ40 is the same as your 1972 so maybe 77 is an oddball era for handbrakes.

More likely though in my opinion is that Governments/regulations in certain markets specified their own warning lights and warning light behaviour. (I don't have a seat-belt warning light which I've noticed others may have for a similar production period. And I have a low brake fluid warning light that I've noticed some others are missing. I also have a warning alarm for poor vacuum relating to my brake booster for that matter.)

:beer:
 
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