Drive shafts with 4" Ironman lift

[ceby]

I realize that balancing a DS is an instant gratification kind of thing around here but I think it maybe an unnecessary thing to to. DS's don't get unbalanced simply by lifting a rig or replacing the UJs with OEM UJ's, I can't speak for non OEM UJs. The only way to unbalance a DS is typically by hitting on a rock, bending it, candy striping it, nicking, etc. Think about it, your rig was totally smooth before you started to monkey with the suspension so it stands to reason that it's probably fine after you lifted it.

After the lift, our DS's are now operating at different angles and your headache starts. I wish more folks would measure their DS angles (flanges, yokes, etc) BEFORE the lift and then try to re-achieve the same angles after the lift. We need to be objective about all this, rather than using our senses to determine seat of the pants vibration feedback.

Anyway, just my .02 cents worth!! Happy Friday everyone.

I agree with everything you say here… Only I installed all new OEM Ujoints after lifting the vehicle and for the minimal cost to balance it I had the driveshaft shop check it for balance first. Which I'm glad I did, because the driveshaft was in fact out of balance.

 

[asutherland]

Yeah! Friday! And I have it OFF!

Cruiser work today includes some electrical though... nothing fun

I have candystriped and hit my rear drive shaft in the last few years. Balancing can't do any harm. But agreed, I don't expect much. I expect more out of removing the 1.1 inch spacers.

 

[ceby]

I've installed several Ironman 4" kits, and I've found that the castor plates they supply with the 4" lift provide too much correction. They are 5deg. The Slee or Metal Tech plates (or the ones I have made) are better with a 4" lift, they're all around 3.25deg - 3.5deg I believe. Ironman uses the same plate with the 4" lift and the 6" lift. Looking at your pic of the front pinion it appears that your pinion is a bit low (ie. too much correction), and a set of plates with about 3.5 deg correction will set you up at about 0deg +/- 1deg. This will put you right in the good range for a DC shaft, and it should run smooth. Getting the correction down to about 3.5deg will also help a few other things like less arc in the front springs and better clearance between the tie rod and radius arms. If you've got a couple degrees operating angle at the front pinion, even a DC shaft won't fix the vibes. You need to get that angle very close to 0deg.

I used a 1st Gen Tacoma 4wd shaft for my DC.

I went through all these issues when I put my lift in, and came up with the above for castor correction, run a DC shaft, kept full time 4wd, and it has been running smooth for 60k miles.

BTW, the castor plates is the only part of the Ironman lift I didn't like. I've been super happy with all the other components.

So I finally got a digital angle finder and crawled under the truck yesterday. After measuring the front pinion and the front driveshaft, the operating angle is approximately 4.5°. Would be caster correction plates that you were talking about bring me back to zero?

 

[ALX4X4]

Hi Ceby,
Not sure if you noticed in my earlier pics I'm running the Superior Engineering performance arms to suit 4" lift. All I can say is with those arms, the Tattons DC shaft, even on 315/75's and with the 6.0LS2 engine, she points, steers and drives like a dream. I'm also P/T but even with the hubs in I get ZERO vibration under load, coast or decel. And I'm manual so no hydraulics isolating any shake and shimmy !
It sounds like you have more heartache invested in this that what the arms cost, I have no steering or rubbing issues with these arms, yeah, they're not cheap, but I sleep like a baby.
Her'e a side on shot before I had the arms and was running 295/75x16's. If your lift is anything like this, the arms will fix your concerns as they did mine. And you saw my horrid TC front pinion angle. I've also put 11mm longer rear control arms on the rear just to give my rear lower joint a bit more angle and have hardly any vibes at all, saving for 400HP trying to get out And that I can bear.....

 

[Dissent]

If any of you guys need a brand new Tatton DC REAR shaft, give me a shout. I've got one sitting in the garage waiting for a new home.

 

[gfox777]

Maybe a dumb question but i am lifting my 80 to 4". Does anyone have a measurement difference between the stock length and maybe an aftermarket Slee/ witts end front dc shaft? I have a shop that can disassemble the oem shaft and extend it. My rig is not full time 4wd. Appreciate any response.

 

[Blondie]

Maybe a dumb question but i am lifting my 80 to 4". Does anyone have a measurement difference between the stock length and maybe an aftermarket Slee/ witts end front dc shaft? I have a shop that can disassemble the oem shaft and extend it. My rig is not full time 4wd. Appreciate any response.

I've got a 4" lift on mine with a part-time conversion and didn't have to extend my front driveshaft. Did a double cardan rear. Since you're part time I figure you mind as well and take you're own before and after measurements and have your local shop extend it if necessary.. every vehicle will have a slightly different ride height depending on how the rig is outfitted. Hope that helps.

 

[Crab Sack]

I had the same issue with mine after the Ironman 4 inch lift plus 30mm spacers. Tatton DC driveshaft will smooth your ride out tremendously.
Currently with the Ironman caster plates, I am running about 3.2 degrees of caster.