Does your rig have the front shaft on now? Is it possible for you to post some "good" pics of your front shaft and differential so we can see what you have going on?
Drive shafts with 4" Ironman lift
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- #43
Where can I get the adapter? Is there a specific part number that fits the fzj80?
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- #44
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- #45
She must be special to get her own area rug!
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- #46
Who built the DS for you?
Based on the photo you posted, Ironman plates have you all set for a DC shaft as it appears your driveshaft is aligned wih the pinion.
What you need is not really an adapter but simply a spicer (don't accept a foreign replica) 1310 Double cardan joint which any driveline shop worth it's salt should stock and be capable of welding onto your toyota OEM shaft after they cut your existing yoke from the T-case end. So, your shaft will retain the OEM style yokes and joint at the pinion end and have the spicer DC at the T-case.
Be advised, Toyota drive shafts are infamously strong and over built. The spicer 1310 DC Joints will be a bit smaller but you have two of them carrying the load. You can see what my rig is in my signature. I wheel Rubicon and such regularly, because it's where I live, and I have had no problems with this shaft which I had built by a well established shop local to me.
Some of our members like to use a rear DC from a Tacoma IIRC and that is great too and perhaps even stronger than mine.
Have you talked to Landtank about a DC shaft?
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- #48
Ive only spoken with landtank about all this on this thread. I have looked up his DC shaft and it looks great but I'm not ready to drop that much coin on a shaft yet until I know for sure it will fix the vibes. Just in case I have to go P/T 4wd. It's killing my budget I had set aside for my rock sliders and winch.
You are dealing with a common issue to all builders of off road vehicles, it's not difficult. You saw the photos of another members drive shaft. His set up looked identical to yours and mine and probably everyone else's who installed a kit that was engineered to use a DC shaft. If you had bought a Slee kit it would have been more complete and included a DC shaft. Ironman is a more budget minded kit and leaves the driveline issue to the owner.
A well built (no inferior parts) drive shaft is expensive. A $300 DC shaft is made up lower quality (possibly Chinese) parts. My DC shaft cost $450 and they reused the pinion yoke and joint. I am sure that you will get what you pay for with Landtank.
The Fj80 is not easy on the wallet so get used to it. Going cheap now only sets you up for disappointment later.
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- #50
I hear ya, I found the 1310 DC spicer head assembly online for $165. I'm going to call my local driveline guy tomorrow and see what it's going to cost and also what brand DC assembly he carries. I'll narrow it down then. But either way it's looking to be over $300 so I may just be ordering from Landtank anyhow.
Before you buy a 1310 DC joint make sure it fits you out put flange stud pattern.
It will be necessary to do some minor machining to reduce the thickness of the 1310 companion flange so the studs on the out put flange protrude through enough to allow the nuts to have full thread engagement. This is another service a good driveline shop can provide. Good luck and let us know how this turns out.
And, it's been 'upgraded' from a rug to carpet now..... Nothin but the best for my pet.She must be special to get her own area rug!
Tattons
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- #55
Tatton is selling the DC shaft complete and built to length on eBay for $325.00 delivered to your door step. Can't beat that! My local DS shop wanted $200 for the the DC assembly, and $90 to cut and reuse my old shaft with balancing. And thats making a 30 minute drive at least twice to their shop and hoping everything comes out right. So for $35 I think Tatton is looking really good. I have read nothing but good from everyone who has purchased them, even after putting plenty of miles on them. Thanks for the recommendation!
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- #56
Great idea but I don't know anyone that has one well enough to ask them to swap with me. Either way with 4" lift and the CC plates. I think it really has to have one regardless.
Your local shop probably uses all American made parts. I spoke to Tatton last week about a rear DC shaft. He sources parts from outside the USA. Not my thing.
Tatton is selling the DC shaft complete and built to length on eBay for $325.00 delivered to your door step. Can't beat that! My local DS shop wanted $200 for the the DC assembly, and $90 to cut and reuse my old shaft with balancing. And thats making a 30 minute drive at least twice to their shop and hoping everything comes out right. So for $35 I think Tatton is looking really good. I have read nothing but good from everyone who has purchased them, even after putting plenty of miles on them. Thanks for the recommendation!
Tatton is selling the DC shaft complete and built to length on eBay for $325.00 delivered to your door step. Can't beat that! My local DS shop wanted $200 for the the DC assembly, and $90 to cut and reuse my old shaft with balancing. And thats making a 30 minute drive at least twice to their shop and hoping everything comes out right. So for $35 I think Tatton is looking really good. I have read nothing but good from everyone who has purchased them, even after putting plenty of miles on them. Thanks for the recommendation!
Only thing for me was they 'pocketed' the bolt holes so the original Toyota fasteners would be long enough as the Spicer 1310 flange is way thicker than Toyota. Hence my rednect spanner, a 14mm impact socket, turned down, shortened, and with a piece of hi-tensile rod through the sie so I can lean on it. No room for ring or ratchet, so this sucker lives in my toolbox now.
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- #59
The one Im looking at says it uses Spicer and Neapco, the joints being Spicer. My local shop says he also used spicer and neapco.
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- #60
So the latest threads I've been reading state that he addressed the issue with the thicker flange, is this the outcome or is he now machining them down?