Dozer gets her hair did (somewhat of a build thread) (2 Viewers)

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Lots of oil in the intake and head runners. Seems this is pretty normal for LS engine, per the interwebs. @cruisermatt are you running a catch can and/or PCV delete? I definitely want to get the heads cleaned and checked and new head gaskets in place while I have the easy access.

Looking for machine shop recommendations, for someone good with LSs. I assume most any shop has done tons of these, based on popularity. I used John West for the 2FE machine work, and while the machinists were top notch, John was an ass to me and I really don't want to give him any more of my business. Boyette's head guy is out today, so I plan to call him (Doug) tomorrow to discuss.

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I did get her cleaned up a bit and a little better peak under the valve covers. Was surprised to see a few drips of water got past the valve cover gaskets, but I was able to clean that up no problem.

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cruisermatt

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I have just been routing the PCV ports to the back of the intake (on the brake booster vacuum port, neither of my LS rides have vacuum boosters though) and letting the engine eat it.

Why are you fixated on getting the heads to a machine shop or replacing the gaskets? This isn’t a 2F. In fact you actually can reuse the head gaskets, I’ve done it multiple times on boosted motors even. I would avoid getting the head machined because I don’t like creating any possibly of having a pushrod length issue. Especially if there’s no reason to. There’s magic inside there, don’t let it out. Just compression test it as it is.
 
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I have just been routing the PCV ports to the back of the intake (on the brake booster vacuum port, neither of my LS rides have vacuum boosters though) and letting the engine eat it.

Why are you fixated on getting the heads to a machine shop or replacing the gaskets? This isn’t a 2F. In fact you actually can reuse the head gaskets, I’ve done it multiple times on boosted motors even. I would avoid getting the head machined because I don’t like creating any possibly of having a pushrod length issue. Especially if there’s no reason to. There’s magic inside there, don’t let it out. Just compression test it as it is.

Thanks!

Ahhh, I was planning on using the OE brake booster. So I'll need to figure that out. Not impressed with all the oil in the intake, but I get that's "normal"

I was planning on buying the master gasket kit, definitely needs a reseal. Seemed like a no brainer to go ahead with the head gaskets and do a valve job and get rid of all that oil in the runners, generally clean and "refresh". I want to avoid cutting the head at all costs, since this is already the higher compression lq9.
 
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cruisermatt

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Just pressure wash it. Seriously. I bet it has perfect compression.
You’re going to re-seal the oil pan when you swap the pan out anyways. By the way, buy these, an actual good use of money for a LS swap:


 
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Just pressure wash it. Seriously. I bet it has perfect compression.
You’re going to re-seal the oil pan when you swap the pan out anyways. By the way, buy these, an actual good use of money for a LS swap:



You are saying just to pull the heads and pressure wash them?

On the oil pan - I've seen a lot of folks are running that or the Camaro pan. I'm really wondering if I'll need it on a sprung over 40. Probably not, but I'm going to give it a look.

On the manifolds - I've been keeping an eye out for the C5 manifolds for dirt cheap. Good to know there's a fairly inexpensive, known good solution out of a box.

Thanks!!
 

cruisermatt

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You could pull the heads and pressure wash them or just do it on the motor! I've done both.

Not sure how you wheel or how tall your spring over is, but I have that pan I linked on my FJ62 with a spring-over and even with the higher clearance I actually managed to clip the bottom corner of the pan, right next to the drain plug, on the Rubicon in August. The truck pan your engine came with hangs down about 2" lower. Also the pan kit I linked has a convenient notch on the passenger side, perfect for a Cruiser driveshaft.

Those C5 manifolds are not what you want, they're going to go right where you're going to want to put your motor mounts
 
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You could pull the heads and pressure wash them or just do it on the motor! I've done both.

Not sure how you wheel or how tall your spring over is, but I have that pan I linked on my FJ62 with a spring-over and even with the higher clearance I actually managed to clip the bottom corner of the pan, right next to the drain plug, on the Rubicon in August. The truck pan your engine came with hangs down about 2" lower. Also the pan kit I linked has a convenient notch on the passenger side, perfect for a Cruiser driveshaft.

Those C5 manifolds are not what you want, they're going to go right where you're going to want to put your motor mounts

Good deal, thanks for the heads up!


Sanderson Headers was the only supplier that snuck past my motor mounts.

Thanks Jim. Are those headers leak-prone? I hated dealing with leaky headers!
 
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On my modified LS I modified my PCV and added a catch can like this.


Thanks Al. The Gen3 engines don't utilize a PCV valve. I'm seeing various strategies, but I really want to get all the oil out of the intake path, so I'm thinking I'll just run a 2-port catch can that vents to atmosphere - 1 port from each valve cover. I will cap where it currently gets vacuum on the manifold for the d.s. head, and fresh air from the throttle body for the p.s.
 
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Thanks Al. The Gen3 engines don't utilize a PCV valve. I'm seeing various strategies, but I really want to get all the oil out of the intake path, so I'm thinking I'll just run a 2-port catch can that vents to atmosphere - 1 port from each valve cover. I will cap where it currently gets vacuum on the manifold for the d.s. head, and fresh air from the throttle body for the p.s.
The LS1 is a gen III motor and I've change a LQ9 PCV on an 02 escalade before??

Is yours a GenIV??


Did a bit of digging looks like in 03 the truck motors went with a valveless system.
 

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