Builds dougbert's future 350 swap: How much torque is too much? (1 Viewer)

[norsk]

got some pics of the rig in daylight

Need the 2nd coat on the following, and you are looking at the rear hole in the roof fixed

and the fixed hole on the right rear

and the longer/bigger rust hole on the driver's side

above the cargo area

 

[norsk]

Pic of inside, close up, knocking on the roof is not a tinny sound

cowl. Note the color of the hood. I had that painted a few years ago with the OEM color because it was so bad. Now my wife likes the hood very much and does not want me to re-paint it, so I have held off painting til the last. When my wife sees it, I hope she sees that it would look better with the Monstaliner. We shall see.

now I can get the windshield ordered

pillar

right rear, below that section the lower panel is highly rusted out. I have a replacement panel to put in there, which is the next project

I know I am not the greatest painter, but I think this is going to work just fine for me. The roof was a major effort, now I can work on the quarters of the rig individually.

 

[Country]

How did that engine ever turn out ? Fix the tick? I am thinking of doing the same cam , 9.6 compression and Vortec heads I just had worked on for my 94 TBI truck. Have a slight stall as have a V6 trans. I want low range torque and not have to do stalls, rev higher and taller gears thus more gas used. Just thinking of getting a LSA of 112 instead of the 111 LSA for vacuum for the ecm ( Comp lists it's computer controlled cams with at least 112) and little emissions testing it needs every other year. No extra charge for that Comp says.

Some say go to 114 LSA but you lose almost 10 percent horsepower and torque but gain cleaner burning engine. Guess newer Chevy's even go to 117 LSA. 114 might work with a stock chip? I know we do lots of mods just to get an extra 10 hr like air cleaners, under drive pulleys ect.
Talk to 10 people about cams you get 10 different answers but higher LSA's mean cleaner and less hp and lower mean more power and nicer idle. But now your splitting hairs if you go up one or two numbers.

According to this article w 4 identical cams but different LSA's you only loose 3 - 7 ft lbs of tongue so hp should be about an even lose. He doesn't show low rpm's which is what we drive at normally. Guess he was looking at peak. http://www.cartechbooks.com/techtips/camshafts1/

 

[norsk]

working on the body to get it street legal, etc. Still ticking. I have less than 2 months to get this running, so focused on the things I know I can fix, and work on the bigger issue shortly

and thx for the link

 

[norsk]

Finally started working on the rear quarter panels where the "rust has flourished" over time

my right rear is the worst as the wheel well has lost the "outer edge", but I started on my left rear.

I already have the replacement right rear from http://www.alfaparts.net/tlc.htm which I ordered and received some time ago. I am ordering the left quarter now and hope they still make them. Otherwise, it will be an order to CCOT for their product, and cost $150 more.

Some pic of ugly things. Warning: Recommend adults only due to the graphic nature of the "rust hunt"

First the left side, I will be relocating the gas tank sensor wires from current position to the upper bolt hole that is higher and to the right:

Here the rear outer edge of the wheel well as I slowly work forward towards the "dog leg", looking for rust

Looking into the rear part of the quarter. Rust is fairly low. We will be angling the slope from a higher position in the rear downward to rear of the wheel. This will take off 3-4 inches of the old quarter (which is rust anyway) and allow for a better/higher take off on the rear. A torfab bumper will wrap around all of this as well.

Right side, the dog leg will come in handy here

the outer wheel well edge is gone, so we will have to fab up a replacement:

 

[norsk]

Most of this will be cut out

 

[norsk]

July 3, update:

In cutting the above section of the right rear, I started a grass fire.
Now I had 10 feet cleared behind me, 10 gallons of water in buckets and a fire extinguisher. I noticed the fire almost immediately but was about 3 ft across - it was 12 ft away - Right. Ran and got the first bucket and knocked out 1/2 of it. Went and got 2nd bucket, but the wind gusted up and got bigger.

Went for phone in pocket - was dead after 12 hours - should have plugged it into car
Get HAM radio and contacted local repeater, no response
Contacted next county's repeater which reaches a larger area, no response
Switched to the Intermountain Intertie repeater network, which covers 4-5 states, got a response from a HAM in Nevada.

Gave him local dispatch's phone number - yeah, I know it by heart
and local address, but was off by 300, but smoke was high enough to see.

Police showed up, got his extinguisher then I remembered mine, and we both knocked down about 1/4 of fire - if I could have remembered it to begin with, it would have been NO PROBLEM - man, what adrenaline does to ya - I could have knocked it out w/o the water. I carry a large one, I think 2 gallons - one that can be re-charged.

Lost some old 2f parts and some old inside material, but I wasn't going to use them.

What I learned:

keep cell phone plugged in
weed wack all the grasses for 20-30 feet
Double check where my sparks go.
Fix Jake's outside water faucet
Recharge Extinguisher

SO glad I am a HAM and there are HAM repeaters out there
and glad I knew dispatch's number by heart

BTW: That was late in the day. I did a lot of work on the left rear, got all the rust cut out.
Got inside surfaces sanded, and primed for Monstaliner for tomorrow

 

[norsk]

Today, cleaned up the burned area and mowed down grasses out to 30 feet from the truck

and cleaned up the right rear quarter by cutting off all the cancer parts, ground down sharp points, and wire wheeled that I could to get rid of the surface rust. Then applied rust converter all over to catch rust I could not reach

left side cleaned up

left wheel well

cut right side, before rust cleanup

 

[norsk]

Applied coat of Monstaliner on inside of pillars, along the top edge of windows/doors, etc to give that orange peel look.

One more coat tomorrow morning and all but the rear quarters have been painted.
Took the rear cargo windows in for cleaning and a new ProTint with Solar Thermal 5% application ($170 for cleaning and the tint. When they are done, will install those windows.

Will move existing internal hatch parts to the new hatch which has been painted. Will also install those cool LED lights in the hatch and rear cargo area.

And yes the 31x10.50 look too small, they are studded snow tires on the winter rims. Eventually will have 33x12.50s installed on the summer black steel rims

Here is a pic of the "now" cleared-of-brush fire area behind the rig, where the majority of the fire was. Weird how the paint has a reddish look in the pics in direct sun, but brown in the shadows and in real life.

That is my old front and rear bumper all burnt up as they were lying at the base of that fence. Lost the fog lights and my vanity front license plate (got to get another one). Lost some AC lines as well
The rear hatch was not in the fire.

Pics of the rig with Brown-Eyed-Girl color Monstaliner

And yes, the black Herculiner will be removed and Monstaliner applied but in the future

 

[JohninFla]

Doug

I know it's far away and shipping is $$$$ but I have a rear bumper you can have for shipping cost. Lemme know it's yours if ya want it

John

 

[norsk]

Doug

I know it's far away and shipping is $$$$ but I have a rear bumper you can have for shipping cost. Lemme know it's yours if ya want it

John

hey john thanks.

I have a torfab rear bumper with 2" receiver in a kit form that I am going to put on in replacement of the OEM one. Just sad to see it burned with the rubber ends. I was going to put the front OEM back on until I can get an ARB bumper. Will figure something. Maybe borrow one from jake until I get the ARB.

thx

dougbert

 

[norsk]

Question for the group:

I have my cargo windows and hatch window out for tinting and when they come back, I have new window rubbers for all 3. I have searched MUD and found suggestions on using a silicone sprayed nylon string and inserting that string into the rubber crevice. But which crevice is it? Maybe I need to look at it first.

I assume it is the crevice that the pinch wield is inserted into and the string is used to pull the lip into the inside of the truck. Am I correct?

And does one use sealant inside this crevice?
what about sealant where the window fits in the rubber?

Learn new things here, and hope others can be good mentors

dougbert

 

[JohninFla]

Doug

It's the crevice where the edge from the window frame fits in. I have done it a bunch of times back in the 80's when trucks didn't come with sliding back windows.

Get some 1/4" give or take) diameter twine and a friend. Wrap the twine in the crevice.

Friend is outside, you are inside the truck. Insert one corner of the window into the frame. Keep the end of the twine inside.

Have your friend apply pressure to the outside of the window while you pull the twine inside along the edge. Having WD 40 or something slippery on the rubber helps it slide in, ( like everything in the world). Work around the window until the edge catches the whole frame. Try to end/ start the twine along a straight, it's harder if you end at a corner.

Have fun!!!

 

[norsk]

Thanks again John.

Another question: I have pulled the old rubber seals off of the rear hatch. Cleaned them up and put on some silicone restorer to get them ready to reinstall. I noticed that in addition to the insert pins to hold them in place they have an adhesive to bond them to the hatch. Anyone have an idea on what to use for the adhesive going forward?

thx

 

[norsk]

Found that 3M makes a very good adhesive for a somewhat high price, but it works

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00063X38M

 

[cruisermatt]

I put that on both sides of my oil pan cork gasket and it leaks.

 

[norsk]

I put that on both sides of my oil pan cork gasket and it leaks.

it is a weatherstripping adhesive primarily. Interesting they indicate it is a gasket adhesive as well. I could see with the heat of an oil pan, it breaks down.

 

[cruisermatt]

Hahaha yeah I don't think it was intended for it. Only thing I had on the shelf.

 

[Elbert]

why not use the product 3m make that says "weatherstrip adhesive"?

http://3mauto.com/products/adhesives-sealants/3m-weatherstrip-adhesive-08011-black.html

use to come in yellow and black... unknown what colors are out there now.

 

[norsk]

why not use the product 3m make that says "weatherstrip adhesive"?

http://3mauto.com/products/adhesives-sealants/3m-weatherstrip-adhesive-08011-black.html

use to come in yellow and black... unknown what colors are out there now.

looks like both say weatherstrip adhesive. Wonder if there are 3M variants?

so I ordered this one as well, and will try both