Doubler or nothing....TECH ONLY

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It sounds like you have this mostly figured out. Just put the legos together, and post results. :flipoff2:
 
Anyone explain (or just know) how to set up shift rails for reduction housing H and L operation and how that may be impacted by the side shift of the HF1A?

Or simpler....

Can the shift rails be contained within the reduction housing?
 
although i don't understand half of what's being said here, this thread interests me...

coming from a suzuki sidekick w/ 50hp and a stock gearset that can get my over-sized tired rig up just about any hill i need to at low speeds and low RPMs, the lexus w/ stock gears on 35s is just downright anemic... i think on road it's fine...

i think the tcase gears from marlin are too little for too much $$$...
i am really used to wheeling manuals too... so this just ticks all my boxes...

FIGURE THIS OUT GUYS.... make a list of part numbers and a set of instructions and i'm all over it... already hoping someone cracks the nut w/ H151F swaps in the later trucks and ECU fakes.....

exhibit a: me and a coworker messing around at lunch on wednesday:

DELETED... i wish i could post youtube links without them being embedded, this is already not TECH enough of a post...

EDIT2: maybe URL shortner works:
zuk going down and back up again
zuk crawling up



since i take the "as slow as necessary as fast as possible" train of thought, this exact same hill took 3 attempts in the lexus, the first ending in a stall, the 2nd, where i goosed it a bit, ended up in me having to back back down in neutral before a stall, and the 3 required me basically getting a running start and flooring it...

traction was never the problem, torque is (gearing is)

4.88s and marlin tcase gears seem like a bandaid, this solution seems like solving the root issue...
 
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Delancy said:
Anyone explain (or just know) how to set up shift rails for reduction housing H and L operation and how that may be impacted by the side shift of the HF1A?

Or simpler....

Can the shift rails be contained within the reduction housing?
Click to expand...

2 shift rails inside the mini truck box. High/Low and 2wd/4wd. They operate independently. Simply remove the 2wd/4wd rail and do a minor mod to the H/L rail.

If that was your question....
 
aae42 said:
although i don't understand half of what's being said here....
Click to expand...

If it's any consolation, I understand a lesser percentage that I'm saying.

aae42 said:
i think the tcase gears from marlin are too little for too much $$$...
Click to expand...

Think that's $$$?

The ONLY option for HF1A's is ~$2.4k granted the idler is unique in that it and gear are one piece, unlike the HF2A or and other Cruiser case.

LandCruiser 70 & 105 Series Low Range Gears

The money spent on the HF2A gear set is the single most beneficial modification to an 80 and should be THE mod right behind tires, in my opinion.

Honestly, the HF1A gear set is probably low enough for the majority of the Australian market, BUT there's room for improvement in both the ratio and flexibility, for less than the cost of Mark's gear set.

Cruiser cases are unique in in that they lack a reduction housing, I'm assuming because they're all 4wd and, largely and historically, produced by a truck manufacturer, specifically for Cruisers.

(I've searched earth for a 2WD reduction housing, like what may be seen on a 4-5 ton commercial truck, and can find no evidence HINO ever produced.)

Considering the market segment and intended purpose on a global basis, I can see why it's expensive to tool, manufacture, and market gearing options, especially the later model H anything.

fjfodee said:
If that was your question....
Click to expand...

Kinda sorta. That and the next clear up what I thought might have been issues.

Wasn't sure how the TC shifter impacted the reduction box shifter, but don't think it would, in this case.

ThreeEyedBandit said:
Make sure you use a top shift h/l rail. That'll mount the shifter to the top of the range box. One thing to check is the shift rails poke out the front of the box, so they will need some shortening and possibly clearancing on the rear of the trans.
Click to expand...

That's more along what I was wondering is if a H/L rail could be contained within the housing, to not interfere with tranny or transfer.

You're saying they can be shortened, which is kind of what I was looking for.
 
Have you considered a 203? There used to be a kit meant to go between the H42/splitcase, that gives you the right spline count and after that all you would need to do is drill and tap the adapters for the 80 application. They're aluminum, should be really easy for someone with a drill press to do at home.

And then you can go to the splitcase and the 4:1 gears that are available for it.
 
cruisermatt said:
Have you considered a 203?
Click to expand...

What 40,60,70,80,90,100,120,
150 or 200 Cruiser did that come in?

What Toyota?

HINO, at least?

:flipoff2:

cruisermatt said:
then you can go to the splitcase and the 4:1 gears that are available for it.
Click to expand...

But you're limited, man.

The 4:1 BF1A gears kick ass, don't get me wrong.

It's low, low, low, but behind 1HZ/H55F, you'll find yourself in 3rd most of the time. (In fairness, with the damn 4.56 thirds, I'm in 3rd before crossing an intersection in 2H.)

Think the biggest benefit of secondary reduction is the flexibility of having the middle ground, OE 2.488:1 low.

Think of it like this:

H150F 1st- 4.529
Crawlbox- 4.7 (assume)
HF1A- 2.488
Thirds-4.11s

Final crawl ratio - 218:1

Same calculations, minus the crawl box nets - 46:1

Same calculations, H - 19:1

That's a lot of flexibility....

Want more?

Stack another case in the mix, even with OE ratio, and 542:1.

It's easy to make the case for R151F/RF1A viability, considering the ease of gearing, even for FZs.

R and H transmissions share bolt patterns, so it'd be a bolt on affair with an H bell.
 
Are you looking for options for behind your 1HZ? Or 1FZ?

Because your solutions are going to be different for each scenario.

Here's what I had up until recently, 3FE/H41/splitcase/4.11's.

That's 4.95*2.25*4.11=45.77.

In any technical rock sections I was in, which is what I enjoy and want to make the truck capable of, I wanted about exactly twice as low as I had. So my plan was NV4500/203, which netted me:

5.61*2*2.27*4.11=104.68

Perfect for what I want. And if it wasn't low enough then 4:1 gears would be next and that's what also be the regear for 37's (the 4:1 gearset high-range has a 10% under-drive).

And at this point , **** Toyota. They don't give a chit about us. If there's a domestic part that works for my application, it's going in. Parts are parts. Toyota parts don't have any pixie dust on them.
 
Not what I meant, I would think with the diesel you could get away with taller gearing due to the torque.

Having driven a 1HZ/H55f FJ40, even with 3.70's it felt like an absolute tractor. In a good way. Like it could drive over anything.
 
Any update?
 
not sure what the whole idea is...if the engine is a gasoline or a diesel it can use the R tranny, if it is the turbo diesel it must use the H tranny, not that the others won't work, but is reliability issues...R tranny you find them in hilux, just replace the bell housing...also, make sure is a 300mm plate and disc, the other is smaller and weaker...besides that, have fun, that's what these rigs are for
 
Rivman1243 said:
Any update?
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Yes.

My tadpole ass had shrank and my alligator mouth is just realizing it.

Not conceding defeat, but after a year delay in trying to get this to work, decided to run the H55F/BF1A with low gearset, simply to avoid another year of wheeler-less status.

The best I can see possible is running low geared HF2A behind the H150F, but it pales in comparison to the H55F/BF1A, of which I have two, that literally redline before hitting 3 feet per second.

That said, the H15Xs are far superior gearboxes from an operational/comfort stage. H55F is reminiscent a 1980 Mac truck, compared to the ease of the H15xs.

Since my 37s were stolen and using the situation to jump to 42s, doubt I'll be shifting enough to care that 3rd is like cramming a spud bar in a moving wheel spoke at speed.

If anyone wants to pick up the torch, have one H150F/HF1A with FZ bell, and an HZ/HD bell, along with coarse splined FZ clutch bits.

Granted I paid more than current market value, so expect crying during negotiations on price.
 
Back to tech since some a****** stipulated it remain....

The RF1A casting will not mate to the H15Xs or HF1As. It'd require a new casting that'd make Mark's gears fit HF1A appear a bargain at $2,200.....for just the cast case.
 
Delancy said:
Yes.

My tadpole ass had shrank and my alligator mouth is just realizing it.

Not conceding defeat, but after a year delay in trying to get this to work, decided to run the H55F/BF1A with low gearset, simply to avoid another year of wheeler-less status.

The best I can see possible is running low geared HF2A behind the H150F, but it pales in comparison to the H55F/BF1A, of which I have two, that literally redline before hitting 3 feet per second.

That said, the H15Xs are far superior gearboxes from an operational/comfort stage. H55F is reminiscent a 1980 Mac truck, compared to the ease of the H15xs.

Since my 37s were stolen and using the situation to jump to 42s, doubt I'll be shifting enough to care that 3rd is like cramming a spud bar in a moving wheel spoke at speed.

If anyone wants to pick up the torch, have one H150F/HF1A with FZ bell, and an HZ/HD bell, along with coarse splined FZ clutch bits.

Granted I paid more than current market value, so expect crying during negotiations on price.
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Very interesting this. Your split case will be stuffed with 4:1 gears? 42's on 80 series axles with 5:29's? I'm trying to get a mental picture off what you are building.
 
baldilocks said:
I'm trying to get a mental picture off what you are building.
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Lemme help.

Picture a Neanderthal, one that's ideologically fascinated by a square, so much so that he's blinded to the fact that a circle would make for a better wheel.

For that matter, that about sums up ALL I'm associated with.
 
Delancy said:
Lemme help.

Picture a Neanderthal, one that's ideologically fascinated by a square, so much so that he's blinded to the fact that a circle would make for a better wheel.

For that matter, that about sums up ALL I'm associated with.
Click to expand...
And birds of a feather flock together here on Mud. IMHO, Toyota does not make a manual transmission with a low enough first gear to "crawl", especially on 42's and 5:1 or 6:1 transfercase gears are not available.
 
baldilocks said:
And birds of a feather flock together here on Mud. IMHO, Toyota does not make a manual transmission with a low enough first gear to "crawl", especially on 42's and 5:1 or 6:1 transfercase gears are not available.
Click to expand...

It's possible and straightforward, for that matter, and the equation really isn't that complex for a purpose built rig......but it can't be done with Cruiser parts.

Now, the logical may question whether or not a custom tubular frame with custom suspension, on custom axle housings, wrapped in Cruiser skin, with a Cruiser drivetrain, Cruiser thirds, shafts and outers IS, in fact, still a Cruiser. To those I can only reply 'see post above', because somehow it's been rationalized.

That said, either an R151F or H15XF with R tailhousing and a couple of RF1As would allow gearing possibilities constrained only by the chassis length/desired wheelbase......but, I think it'd hurt chances of a fair entry if both pumpkins ain't swaying towards the passenger side....

Flawed logic, defined.
 
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