Door lock motor failure-confirmed
- Thread starter NLXTACY
- Start date
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Did you check continuity from the wire/motor solder joint to the actual brushes?
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #26
DAMMIT!!!!!!!!!
So the "new to me" motors aren't holding up. It takes two or more clicks of the master door lock to get the new lock to actually lock. Sometimes it doesn't even lock at all. Its trying but its not enough. This sucks. I guess I need to order new lock actuators after all. Booooo!
So the "new to me" motors aren't holding up. It takes two or more clicks of the master door lock to get the new lock to actually lock. Sometimes it doesn't even lock at all. Its trying but its not enough. This sucks. I guess I need to order new lock actuators after all. Booooo!
Maybe your latch mechanism is gummed up? I took my rear door apart last night and tried to clean out the door lock motor. Same results as you unfortunately. While I was in there, I realized the latch was caked with grease and dirt and was difficult to move by hand. I suspect this is what caused the motor to fail in the first place. This may have been caused by the vapor barrier being peeled back in that area and not replaced, but I can't be sure. Anyway, I cleaned it up, greased everything, and it worked smoothly after that. I still need a new door lock actuator though...
Mine was having the same issue. Took them apart, motors work perfectly fine. In my case it was the plastic arm that moves the lock lever. They were cracked at the part where they attach to the metal spindle. So the motor was doing its job but the plastic arm was loose around the spindle and wouldn't move the lever.
Tried fixing it by drilling a pin through the plastic arm and spindle. Didn't work so I got fed up and removed both actuators. Now I just have manual locks in the rear until I feel like spending $175 on new motors. I won't buy used ones because I have a feeling the arms will be cracked as well.
And here's a pic showing the failure point on mine. If your 'new' motors lock sometimes, maybe it's the arm coming loose? Have you checked this part?
The arm on mine was also loose, though it didn't appear to be cracked.
I just fixed my rear hatch lock last weekend.
It was a crack in that same arm as shown above.
On mine, I pulled the arm off, cleaned it a bit, and then put a small ty-rap around the part where it would fit without interference, and put it back together.
Rear hatch lock has been working ever since!
It's a press fit onto a knurled shaft.
Edit: Here's a pic of the fix:
It was a crack in that same arm as shown above.
On mine, I pulled the arm off, cleaned it a bit, and then put a small ty-rap around the part where it would fit without interference, and put it back together.
Rear hatch lock has been working ever since!
It's a press fit onto a knurled shaft.
Edit: Here's a pic of the fix:
Last edited:
I'm having the same issue passenger side rear door. Replaced with new toyota motors and the locks still don't work. I unplugged the motor and just have manual locks on that door for now. I need to pull the mech. again see where it is jamming up.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #34
So I finally got around to replacing the DS rear door lock and everything is hunky dory on that side. I took a look at the one I took out, sure enough its cracked on the same piece that BLKPRJ80 has a pic of. When I get the PS rear open again I will check to see if thats all I need to do.
I just replaced my rear DS side motor. Works fine now.
We have two '80s, both have rear door locking issues.
I found this fix in the 100 forum:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/237827-door-lock-actuator-replacement.html
I'm going to order them and give em a try.
I found this fix in the 100 forum:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/237827-door-lock-actuator-replacement.html
I'm going to order them and give em a try.
Again, a huge thanks to you NLXTACY for starting something up on on this... we bought our lx with this issue. Bookmarking because I have a boat load of projects before it.
I just ordered the 4 pack. It was $18 total shipped to my front door. Both of my rear locks are bad and this will allow me to do the repair with two spares in case I have the issue again down the road. I"m quite excited I don't have to drop a $100 plus now on this repair.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #40
I'm about $1000 into this repair. It always starts with, "hmm, that lock doesn't work".
Then its finding used locks...
Then its buying new locks because the first batch didn't work...
Then while you are there might as well do the runs...
While you are there you might as well rebuild/clean the switches...
While you are there might as well Dynomat the door...
While you are there might as well replace the speaker...
Rinse and repeat with each door
