Don't trust that factory temp gauge (1 Viewer)

[FMC80]

I’m Running the Koso, is seems to read a lower temperature the expected. But I live on the cost we’re it’s cool. I drove it into town and it never got over 192 with the Ac on and about 95 degrees out.
I ran it to to coolant out let pipe on the head
That should be the hottest place just before going into the radiator.

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I like your placement of the gauge. Looks great there. I’m planning on using the upper radiator hose.

 

[Rifleman]

I’m Running the Koso, is seems to read a lower temperature the expected.

If you’re running one of the Koso where did you hook it up and does it seem to read accurately ?

When i installed my Koso sending unit, i installed it in the discharge tube running from the head, to the upper radiator hose.

After installing the Koso gauge i wanted to check it, to see how accurate the temp reading were. To test it i stuck my Fluke thermocouple probe inside the upper radiator hose.

During my driving tests the Koso gauge readings were always within plus, or minus 1 degree of what my fluke meter was reading. All in all I'd say that's pretty accurate.

 

[ChaseTruck]

It doesn’t but it’s far hotter than normal operation. It’s where you start talking precautions.

Disagree on the blanket statement. 115°F + or so in Phoenix city traffic with A/C on, and 215°F is just fine. Only precaution left is not driving the 80.

 

[NLXTACY]

Disagree on the blanket statement. 115°F + or so in Phoenix city traffic with A/C on, and 215°F is just fine. Only precaution left is not driving the 80.

If you and I are driving in the same ambient temperature with the AC on and I’m 13° cooler in engine temps, which is normal?

Im ok making a blanket statement about engine temps above 215. It’s where precautions should be made to make sure they don’t keep climbing. All I’m saying.

 

[DSRTRDR]

our 80 typically runs 10 degrees cooler than the LX

diferences:

- 80 has a TYC radiator, LX has OEM

- 80 has a 25K juiced blue hub fan clutch, LX has a 10K juiced black hub fan clutch - both have OEM fans

- 80 temperature is read from the Koso gauge in the coolant outlet from the cylinder head, LX temperature from the Ultragauge/OBDII port

 

[DSRTRDR]

Disagree on the blanket statement. 115°F + or so in Phoenix city traffic with A/C on, and 215°F is just fine. Only precaution left is not driving the 80.

I only stress about 215 degrees if it's not coming down a minute after I accelerate away from the stop at the traffic light

if I am on a trail on a long uphill climb, I switch the A/C off at 212 (or earlier) - the LX holds steady at 206 without A/C in 115 degree heat - as proven last week during 4 hours of wheeling

 

[DivByZero]

This might sound a bit arrogant.... but I think you guys are all doing this wrong. I've cooked an engine once, and come close two other times. In all cases, three was one common cause among them: loss of coolant while driving. A coolant temp gauge is virtually useless against this, because once you lose pressure, the coolant stops circulating properly, or drains below the sensor, and quickly your temp gauge is showing air temp or an inaccurate picture of engine temp. That needle can be sitting pretty measuring dead air, while your head is warping under heat stress. Add to that the fact that even an accurate gauge won't help unless you look at it at the critical moment.

In my opinion, there are two measurements that are really important here: head temps, and coolant level. In both cases, they're only useful if hooked up to an alarm. I run one of these in my 80:

ENGINE GUARDIAN WATCHDOG COOLANT + BOLT TYPE SENSOR EG3C RELAY CONTROL ALARM NEW | eBay

ENGINE GUARDIAN EG3c (New version, fully loaded with coolant sensor & bolt type sensor). Engine Guardian EG3, This system can help to prevent overheating due to Engine Guardian EG3 - Dual Sensor Demo.

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With this hooked up to a temp sensor at the thermostat housing, you get a good measure of the actual metal temperature at the head, which will be true even if you lose coolant, pressure, or your thermostat fails. You can also wire into an oil pressure switch to get an oil pressure alarm. Between these two things, 90% of the scenarios that would write off your engine (barring a crash) will be taken off the table. Well worth the money IMO.