DIY: Telescoping Column Motor Removal/Repair
- Thread starter DomSmith
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Actually yes! I had checked the FSM as well, but didn't notice that the power tilt/tele page was farther down. Thanks for calling this out. It appears that clip is attached to the nut on the telescoping shaft. I could have sworn I checked that, but I'll have to look again. In any case, thanks for the call out @uHu!
Just a heads up that on a 2002 LX 470, owner's manual shows the tilt/telescope fuse to be #50 in the fuse panel at the driver's side foot panel (North American model) but it also shows that same fuse as controlling the the SRS system. So pulling the fuse to disable the tilt/telescope will likely also disable the airbags.
I did both today - telescoping and tilt motors. It was a pain in the balls though, wouldn't want to do that again. Took me over half a day. Always some cable that won't unplug or some bolt that is difficult to get to and won't unscrew or screw back in.
I bought my motors from Amayama, shipped from Dubai, since Impex didn't have them in stock. Got skinned by customs though, so next time I will think twice about going the same way and look for alternatives.
Anyway, if anyone has questions about the whole process - I can help.
I bought my motors from Amayama, shipped from Dubai, since Impex didn't have them in stock. Got skinned by customs though, so next time I will think twice about going the same way and look for alternatives.
Anyway, if anyone has questions about the whole process - I can help.
Too lazy to read through the thread, what were the part numbers and what year?
This is on my short list and I keep putting it off
89231-60022 - Tilt motor
89232-60022 - Telescopic motor
My year is 2001, I just plugged my VIN on Amayama and this is what I was given.
Were you able to figure out a way to "Grease" the steering column bushing? I noticed that the original grease hardens over time and I think the restriction of movement is what causes the telescoping motor to burn out.
When I took the old motor out, I pulled the wheel manually all the way out, cleaned off the old grease and applied new all the way around. That did improve the movement somewhat, but I'm not sure if that will be enough. This is what I used:
There is a Toyota grease kit, grease and syringe, just for this service. I'll try to find mine later today and post it for you.
FWIW, there are two other grease points in that diagram.
@RAMf1
Here you go, Toyota recommended and approved:
FWIW, I have not used this on my LX470; I bought it for my 80 series squeaky steering column (it's actually a "below 55°" temperature indicator).
Here you go, Toyota recommended and approved:
FWIW, I have not used this on my LX470; I bought it for my 80 series squeaky steering column (it's actually a "below 55°" temperature indicator).
Trying to avoid creating a new thread and hope someone can help me out. Has anyone ever tried to clean up the threads on the tilt motor hole for the spindle? Was taking out my old motor today and noticed that threads are destroyed in one section, now I can't get the new motor back in straight, wants to crossthread when it gets about halfway.
Trying to figure out the dimensions on that hole or i'll just have to buy this part and replace it I suppose.
Trying to figure out the dimensions on that hole or i'll just have to buy this part and replace it I suppose.
heli-coil might work. available on amazon (not in us, so no post).
After having completely removed my steering column and disassembling to renew the grease I will try to summarise what I should have done instead to hopefully make your experience less of a ball drag.
After disassembling the column, I discovered that my grease was in good condition and that all I had to do was loosen off the two steering column bush tensioners, this will reduce the force applied to the column which will help a weak/old motor to move the column again.
Below is a picture of the bush tensioner screws, with the telescoping bar disconnected, I backed them off about 3mm to the point I was able to move the steering column by hand, you will need to find some 16mm washers/shims to space them out correctly so they don't fall out; there is a plate that blocks access to the screws which will need to be removed.
These bushes are what the tensioners are pushing against the column.
Note. Loosening of the bush tensioners should not be required if you are replacing the motor. You may have to disassemble to replace your grease instead along with ensuring that the telescoping rod is greased too.
Note 2. After regreasing (I used CV grease), reassembling the column and with the adjusting rod disconnected I was unable to physically move the column when the steering column bushes were fully tightened; I think that this is by design and that the motors, when new, are really strong.
Shout out to @HDJ100inSpain for identifying column grease issues on post #102
Shout out to @SebM who mentioned the tension springs on post #181
Shout out to @RebusKnebus for identifying that the motor should be operating within and not to the mechanical limits on post #191
I hope this helps somebody.
After disassembling the column, I discovered that my grease was in good condition and that all I had to do was loosen off the two steering column bush tensioners, this will reduce the force applied to the column which will help a weak/old motor to move the column again.
Below is a picture of the bush tensioner screws, with the telescoping bar disconnected, I backed them off about 3mm to the point I was able to move the steering column by hand, you will need to find some 16mm washers/shims to space them out correctly so they don't fall out; there is a plate that blocks access to the screws which will need to be removed.
These bushes are what the tensioners are pushing against the column.
Note. Loosening of the bush tensioners should not be required if you are replacing the motor. You may have to disassemble to replace your grease instead along with ensuring that the telescoping rod is greased too.
Note 2. After regreasing (I used CV grease), reassembling the column and with the adjusting rod disconnected I was unable to physically move the column when the steering column bushes were fully tightened; I think that this is by design and that the motors, when new, are really strong.
Shout out to @HDJ100inSpain for identifying column grease issues on post #102
Shout out to @SebM who mentioned the tension springs on post #181
Shout out to @RebusKnebus for identifying that the motor should be operating within and not to the mechanical limits on post #191
I hope this helps somebody.
@Jay Tea, I was really excited when I saw your post as I have play in my column and I was wondering if your trick here would help me. I was thinking I could maybe "tighten up" these screws.
But the more I looked into it, it seems like there are springs in there that are supposed to hold the bushing up against the Upper Column Tube? Curious how this fix is working for you? I was thinking about taking this section all apart to figure out what is going on with mine. I also see I need to get some shear bolts?
(Friendly FYI I also posted about this in the main column replacement thread here)
But the more I looked into it, it seems like there are springs in there that are supposed to hold the bushing up against the Upper Column Tube? Curious how this fix is working for you? I was thinking about taking this section all apart to figure out what is going on with mine. I also see I need to get some shear bolts?
(Friendly FYI I also posted about this in the main column replacement thread here)
I backed mine out in order to reduce friction to aid the aging telescoping motor, subsequently it's working great but has some radial play.
In order for you to further tighten your steering column (remove play) you may have to place something to shim up the existing springs as the bolts are bottomed out, which has me thinking, do you still have the springs in there?
That is exactly what I was wondering. I have a feeling the springs or bushings might be gone. It looks like someone has been in there before.
From what I can tell, I'm going to need to pull the whole column to be able to drill out these shear bolts?
You shouldn't need to drill anything, those shear bolts are what hold the steering lock onto the column (as well as the column tensioning springs/ramps).
The springs are behind two in-hex screws/caps.
I did not need to touch those shear bolts when disassembling my rack.
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Oh! Good to know. I thought the two hex bolts and shear bolts held it on.
Assuming my bushings might be worn or gone, do you know if I could install bushings as well without having to take the column out of the tube?
I don't believe that would be possible, the main bush has a locating nub and the two lower bushes sit in a recess on top of the wedges, there wouldn't be enough clearance to install them without pulling the column from the tube.
Just change my telescope motor today. I removed the heater duct with the one screw near the Hood / Fuel release. Pulled the duct away from the left (hood fuel release side) and then from the right. Took two minutes to get out. Once out, there is soooo much more space to work with. The motor replace to five minutes tops. Then had a ton of room to regrease. Took five minutes to get the heater duct perfectly aligned. Cannot recommend this method enough.