Dissent offroad modular rear bumper.

[fireball]

Greetings all. After admiring them at 100s in the Hills, I purchased a Dissent rear for my 100 but never got around to installing it, and have since purchased a 200.

The Dissent rear with passenger side accessory arm is now up for sale here: For Sale - 100 series - Dissent Off Road REAR BUMPER

Shoot me a message if interested. Thanks!

 

[BillZ260]

I'll be keeping it until something makes me change it. It seems aftermarket exhaust don't get you much other than sound.

 

[Kolasin]

For the exhaust, I had the rear resonator (looks like the muffler) removed and replaced it with a straight pipe. The end of the pipe is cut on an angle to be flush with the bumper for maximum clearance. I can't really tell much of a difference in sound with the resonator removed. I still have exhaust flow from the stock location, but now without a dented tailpipe (didn't take long to do that after putting the spare on the rear bumper). It cost $80 total at a local muffler shop. Here's a pic of the finished product.

 

[Kabanstva]

For the exhaust, I had the rear resonator (looks like the muffler) removed and replaced it with a straight pipe. The end of the pipe is cut on an angle to be flush with the bumper for maximum clearance. I can't really tell much of a difference in sound with the resonator removed. I still have exhaust flow from the stock location, but now without a dented tailpipe (didn't take long to do that after putting the spare on the rear bumper). It cost $80 total at a local muffler shop. Here's a pic of the finished product.

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That’s exactly what I’m planning on doing. Thanks for sharing!

 

[Frantz Sainte]

Are either bumpers still available? I am interested, also if available where are they located? Also I would like to know the price.

 

[Alibaster]

Luckily for you that information is located in the first post.

 

[LBeckons]

How are owners of this bumper feeling about the reverse lights and most of the taillights appearing to be blocked. I can't tell if that's a safety/legal issue. Really want this bumper, for now I'll just wait for my front.

 

[WickedPickle]

I became concerned when I saw the view from behind so I added a third brake light that's wired to blink on turn signals and brighten on braking. Ben actually recommended last April after installing my bumper since I have a chainsaw holder covering the side marker. If you don't have the additional tray I'd say it's fine, but you need to decide since you own safety of your vehicle.

 

[WickedPickle]

Sorry here is the link to the brake light I bought off of ebay.

2PC 17" Submersible Red 23LED Stop Turn Tail 3rd Brake Light Bar Truck Trailer 57284501471 | eBay

 

[Kabanstva]

I like the third brake light idea. Curious if someone did something similar for more visible reverse lights.

 

[SierraWheeler]

I became concerned when I saw the view from behind so I added a third brake light that's wired to blink on turn signals and brighten on braking. Ben actually recommended last April after installing my bumper since I have a chainsaw holder covering the side marker. If you don't have the additional tray I'd say it's fine, but you need to decide since you own safety of your vehicle.

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Nice idea with putting a strip light in that spot. I thought the same thing and put one of these in the hitch.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N22FCI7/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[westwardCruiser]

Unfortunately it doesn't look like the spare tire will fit underneath, the factory rear crossmember is curved to fit the spare, if I were to build the bumper to fit this it will stick out way to far IMHO. I may try and put my tire up there and see if it fits but it's not looking like it will.
One thing i have decided to do is make the spare tire swingouts completely adjustable, I think the biggest issue with having the tire on the back for dd duty is vision, so the tire will be able to be mounted high for clearance Or low for visibility. I will also have the angle of the spare adjustable, this way it could be run vertically or at an angle.


Sent from my iPhone

Has anyone managed to fit a 33 in the factory spare location with this bumper?

 

[pbreisch]

I've had my bumper for almost two years now, A couple months ago I started to have a little difficulty getting the swing out latch to catch reliably and today it refuses to latch at all. Anyone having/have a similar issue? As best I can tell, examining the catch, is that the lock has a spring on it that should drive it into the "claws" when they are wraped around the pin. Each claw has two notches, resulting in the two stage click. I can manually pressure the catch into the notches, but it doesn't go on its own. I can take pics later today to illustrate what is happening but just wanted to see if there was a known solution.

@benc

 

[WickedPickle]

I had a similar issue when I bottomed out hard driving too fast on a forest road. I think the bumper shifted so I loosened the wing and jacked it up then tightened. Ben sent me new hardware for the latch and catch bolt, but the claws won’t clear the new latch bolt. Long story short I had to buy a replacement bearclaw latch and now it works.
Also I noticed on the old latch that one of the claws wore down so only 1 click would engage and not the second.
Mine works now, but feels a bit different than the original install.

 

[drwapenshaw]

My gate does not automatically engage anymore. I was coming off a dirt trail (lots of bumps) and it swung open. I think it did not close fully when I was deep in there the night before. Since then I have had to manually push or pull the handle to get it to engage or disengage the catch bolt. I plan on going in there are seeing if I can just lube it or replace a spring, but manually moving it seems to work for the past 6 months.

 

[pbreisch]

I went home for lunch and really took a look at it. Here are two pictures showing it in open and closed. This is my first time really analyzing a latch like this so it may be "no duh" for some of you.

This is before I cleaned the crap out of it. You can see how the mechanism works, there is an "L" shaped lever on a pivot with a spring that tensions it into "Locked" mode. When the claws close the B portion of the lever should be pushed into the notches by a spring. When you open the release, it presses against the "A" portion of the lever and the spring on the claw pop them open. Easy peasy. As part of my standard routine I've been spraying the mechanism with lithium lube. That's all the white gunk you see.

At first, if I pinched the claws closed the latch "B" would just sit there, no pressure into the notches. So, I tried to work the mechanism by hand and it wasn't frozen in place (ice/rust/corrosion, etc.) I could use a drift and with just my hand push on "A" to manually engage "B" while I pinched the claws closed. So it wasn't stuck. I started to clean it up to get a better look at what was going on and between that and the repeated lock/unlock cycles it seems to have started working again.

What's my takeaway? I keep my truck pretty clean, but other than spraying this lock with the lube every 5k miles or so I haven't given it any other attention. So I guess I need to keep an eye on those springs and levers to make sure they don't get gunked up with dirt. Also, no more lithium lube, I need to find something that collects less dirt and dust I think. Any suggestions on a dry lube?

 

[Kabanstva]

I went home for lunch and really took a look at it. Here are two pictures showing it in open and closed. This is my first time really analyzing a latch like this so it may be "no duh" for some of you.

This is before I cleaned the crap out of it. You can see how the mechanism works, there is an "L" shaped lever on a pivot with a spring that tensions it into "Locked" mode. When the claws close the B portion of the lever should be pushed into the notches by a spring. When you open the release, it presses against the "A" portion of the lever and the spring on the claw pop them open. Easy peasy. As part of my standard routine I've been spraying the mechanism with lithium lube. That's all the white gunk you see.

View attachment 1913625

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At first, if I pinched the claws closed the latch "B" would just sit there, no pressure into the notches. So, I tried to work the mechanism by hand and it wasn't frozen in place (ice/rust/corrosion, etc.) I could use a drift and with just my hand push on "A" to manually engage "B" while I pinched the claws closed. So it wasn't stuck. I started to clean it up to get a better look at what was going on and between that and the repeated lock/unlock cycles it seems to have started working again.

What's my takeaway? I keep my truck pretty clean, but other than spraying this lock with the lube every 5k miles or so I haven't given it any other attention. So I guess I need to keep an eye on those springs and levers to make sure they don't get gunked up with dirt. Also, no more lithium lube, I need to find something that collects less dirt and dust I think. Any suggestions on a dry lube?

I really like Boeshield T9.... use it on my mountain bike all the time and spray the entire engine bay every fall to keep and corrosion off the metal on my LS430.

 

[dfinn]

Anyone in the Salt Lake City area install one of these previously and interested in helping someone install another one? Willing to pay for your time.

 

[JAntosch]

Anyone in the Salt Lake City area install one of these previously and interested in helping someone install another one? Willing to pay for your time.

Pm'd

 

[savirc]

Hello

Has anyone tried to use the 1-up bike rack with this bumper? I want to make sure it clears the swing arm/tire before I buy one. Thanks in advance.