Hey guys, let's keep it down n bumper tech so the tread don't end up flagged n shut down! This is not chat.
I'd imagine most of 'Mud would be removed if a single unrelated comment was enough to lock down a thread.
Dissent offroad modular front bumper
- Thread starter benc
- Start date
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I'd imagine most of 'Mud would be removed if a single unrelated comment was enough to lock down a thread.
I know, I know, I'm not the "keep it tech" police. What I meant was I have seen quite a few good treads turn to useless back talking/name calling and many times it starts with posts like the one right before my "suggestion" post above! Maybe I'm just not getting the joke in there?!?
Not here to rough anybody's feathers!
In a different note...
Pretty excited to start burning this thing together next week!
Pretty excited to start burning this thing together next week!
Very nice BenBen
I'm stocked to get the welder dusted off and get back to fabricating. I haven't done any big welding projects since I built the bumpers on my 80. I will be heading up to meet Ben on the 16th and will be picking up the DIY kit. It's going to be fun going through security at the airport with 90lbs. of metal bumper parts. They're gonna love me.
- Thread starter
- #910
Thanks Chad. I'm much happier with this version! I was pretty bummed to have to send you with the other caps. I will send out new caps to the 4 that received the old style ASAP
What a long thread. Here is the powder coat info. Lights are around pg 30.
- Thread starter
- #912
Got 2 of the 4 done. Going to try and get 3 to powder coat mid next week. I'm going to try and ship Getoutsides bumper early next week. I wanted to ship out Friday but the shorted me the left grill guard bracket. I'm trying to get these out as quickly as possible while not compromising quality. The DIY kits should all be together soon
And ship out shortly. The end caps are probably going to be the most difficult part for the DIY guys.
And ship out shortly. The end caps are probably going to be the most difficult part for the DIY guys.
Just a quick update, we test fit Jerry's 100 yesterday with the body lift brackets. Everything worked out perfectly! Well done, Ben! I do have pics, but they are spread out over 3 different cameras. I will get them posted up as soon as I can.
Benc
Looking good.
I sent you a PM with updated order information.
Looking good.
I sent you a PM with updated order information.
Bumper Installation Instructions! A big thank you to Ben for getting these bumpers out. I understand how hard he is working on these, so I figured I would use pictures that I had from my bumper and Jerry’s bumper to make some instructions. Ben didn’t ask me to do this and he hasn’t proof read it, so just let me know if there is anything that needs to be adjusted or changed. I just figured Ben’s time was better spent welding instead of writing! Please note, Jerry does have a 1” body lift, so you can see how well the bumper fits with the body lift brackets.
Step One:
Unwrap your bumper and admire the beautiful welds and craftsmanship.
Step Two:
Remove your factory bumper. You will notice that the “crash bar” is bolted to the frame with (4) 14mm bolts…
The bracket that those bolts thread into need to go! Time to break out the angle grinder. You don’t want to cut into the frame, just enough to cut through the bracket:
Now grind the welds down smooth so the new bumper brackets can slide on:
Step One:
Unwrap your bumper and admire the beautiful welds and craftsmanship.
Step Two:
Remove your factory bumper. You will notice that the “crash bar” is bolted to the frame with (4) 14mm bolts…
The bracket that those bolts thread into need to go! Time to break out the angle grinder. You don’t want to cut into the frame, just enough to cut through the bracket:
Now grind the welds down smooth so the new bumper brackets can slide on:
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Step Three:
Using the bolts under the frame that held your factory hooks on, bolt up the mounting brackets so the risers are on the inside of the frame. ***Note: Two of the factory bolts have large shoulders. You will either need to use the factory hook as a spacer or buy two new bolts without the shoulder.*** You want these bolts snug, but movable enough to adjust the bumper as needed.
Step Four:
Now it’s time to bolt on the center section. If you are running no hoops or the small stinger, take the time to bolt that on first. It will give you something to hang onto and give you more material to “hang onto” the brackets. If you have the full brush guard, worry about it after the center section is on the brackets, since it will make it cumbersome. The hoop or plates bolt to the center section using the shorter stainless allen bolts, two washers, and a nut. The center section bolts to the brackets with the black allen head bolts and a nut.
Using the bolts under the frame that held your factory hooks on, bolt up the mounting brackets so the risers are on the inside of the frame. ***Note: Two of the factory bolts have large shoulders. You will either need to use the factory hook as a spacer or buy two new bolts without the shoulder.*** You want these bolts snug, but movable enough to adjust the bumper as needed.
Step Four:
Now it’s time to bolt on the center section. If you are running no hoops or the small stinger, take the time to bolt that on first. It will give you something to hang onto and give you more material to “hang onto” the brackets. If you have the full brush guard, worry about it after the center section is on the brackets, since it will make it cumbersome. The hoop or plates bolt to the center section using the shorter stainless allen bolts, two washers, and a nut. The center section bolts to the brackets with the black allen head bolts and a nut.
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-OR-
Step Five:
Now you need to adjust the bumper. This would involve sliding the brackets forward and/or backwards on the frame bolt. Then tightening the bolts to check for level. If the bumper is not level at this point, you may need to add some shims between the bracket and the frame to get it level. Take your time on this step!
Step Six:
In official ‘Mud fashion, this step is reserved for a frosty beverage of your choice. However, just one as the next step is important!
Step Seven:
Now that the center section is adjusted and bolted up tight, you need to mark where to drill for the cross bolts. This bumper is designed to have adjustment every way possible, so use that to your advantage. You will notice the bolt holes in the bracket are slotted. You may want to make your mark in the middle of that slot to give you more adjustment if needed. ***Note: People with body lift brackets have a lot less adjustment! Make sure that you mark the INSIDE of the frame. I don’t have any good pictures of this, but it will be obvious once you see it.*** Once you have marked where the hole needs to be, it’s time to take everything back off of your truck and start drilling. To make this easier on yourself, make sure to use sharp drill bits. You will also want to drill a small pilot hole first, so the big bit doesn’t walk on you. Last word of advice, make triple sure that the drill is level and plumb before you start drilling and keep an eye on it throughout the drilling process.
Step Five:
Now you need to adjust the bumper. This would involve sliding the brackets forward and/or backwards on the frame bolt. Then tightening the bolts to check for level. If the bumper is not level at this point, you may need to add some shims between the bracket and the frame to get it level. Take your time on this step!
Step Six:
In official ‘Mud fashion, this step is reserved for a frosty beverage of your choice. However, just one as the next step is important!
Step Seven:
Now that the center section is adjusted and bolted up tight, you need to mark where to drill for the cross bolts. This bumper is designed to have adjustment every way possible, so use that to your advantage. You will notice the bolt holes in the bracket are slotted. You may want to make your mark in the middle of that slot to give you more adjustment if needed. ***Note: People with body lift brackets have a lot less adjustment! Make sure that you mark the INSIDE of the frame. I don’t have any good pictures of this, but it will be obvious once you see it.*** Once you have marked where the hole needs to be, it’s time to take everything back off of your truck and start drilling. To make this easier on yourself, make sure to use sharp drill bits. You will also want to drill a small pilot hole first, so the big bit doesn’t walk on you. Last word of advice, make triple sure that the drill is level and plumb before you start drilling and keep an eye on it throughout the drilling process.
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Step Eight:
Repeat steps Three through Five. After that, slide the two top cross bolts through the brackets and the holes you just drilled (bolt, washer, bracket/frame, washer, nut). At this point, I would leave all of the bolts holding the bracket onto the frame a little loose. Chances are you are going to adjust the fit a little bit once the wings are on.
Step Nine:
It is time to bolt on the wings. You will notice that the wings have holes cut in them to slide over the black bolts holding the center section onto the brackets. This is very helpful, especially if you are going this by yourself! Now bolt the wing up to the plate/hoop/brush guard using the shorter stainless steel allen bolt, two washers, and a nut. If you have the full brush guard, you would use the same method on the outside mounting plates as well.
Step Ten:
Now it is time to put the bumper caps on. There is a left and a right, so pay attention! Once they are on, you can slide the bottom bolt that goes through the frame in the same way you did the top ones. Then you will use the six longer stainless steal allen bolts to attach the cap on the front. You will also use two washers and a nut for each of these.
Step Eleven:
Final adjustment. You may find that you want to add or remove shims, or slide the bumper around a little bit. Now is the time to do that. This bumper is designed to fit up to the vehicle tightly, but you have a lot of adjustment to put it how you want it. I know some people are worried about the bumper flexing into the body, so this will help you to put the bumper as close as you feel comfortable. Here are some examples of fitment and some more pics of this bumper in various configurations.
Repeat steps Three through Five. After that, slide the two top cross bolts through the brackets and the holes you just drilled (bolt, washer, bracket/frame, washer, nut). At this point, I would leave all of the bolts holding the bracket onto the frame a little loose. Chances are you are going to adjust the fit a little bit once the wings are on.
Step Nine:
It is time to bolt on the wings. You will notice that the wings have holes cut in them to slide over the black bolts holding the center section onto the brackets. This is very helpful, especially if you are going this by yourself! Now bolt the wing up to the plate/hoop/brush guard using the shorter stainless steel allen bolt, two washers, and a nut. If you have the full brush guard, you would use the same method on the outside mounting plates as well.
Step Ten:
Now it is time to put the bumper caps on. There is a left and a right, so pay attention! Once they are on, you can slide the bottom bolt that goes through the frame in the same way you did the top ones. Then you will use the six longer stainless steal allen bolts to attach the cap on the front. You will also use two washers and a nut for each of these.
Step Eleven:
Final adjustment. You may find that you want to add or remove shims, or slide the bumper around a little bit. Now is the time to do that. This bumper is designed to fit up to the vehicle tightly, but you have a lot of adjustment to put it how you want it. I know some people are worried about the bumper flexing into the body, so this will help you to put the bumper as close as you feel comfortable. Here are some examples of fitment and some more pics of this bumper in various configurations.
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It works. Thanks