Diff fluid sprayed on underbody…..

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All,
Here is a sample of the diff fluid/oil that I just took from the diff. What do you guys think? It looks like redline hi shok 75w90 to me. I added diff fluid/oil back in that was taken out and both plugs are torqued to spec. I need to crawl back under and look at that diff lock breather again, learn something new everyday.

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And you don't need a fancy expensive extension kit. Just go to the local auto parts store and buy some bulk fuel hose. Some guys put an in-line fuel filter at the end, I just put the stock one way valve back on.
Yes, it looks like Harrop has a diff breather kit with 4 lines for $175+tax+shipping through Cruiser Borthers. Is there a specific fuel hose to use? Could I use Gates tranny fluid hose? I would want to extend all 3 diff breather lines, the center diff breather could be tough to get to.
 
Another option is to route the rear axle breather up into the left rear quarter panel. There is a factory hole and grommet on the inner aspect of the quarter panel cavity ie: looking from the spare tire to the backside (at least in US FZJ80's as most had a tow harness installed which came out via that grommet/hole).
Cool, yes, this would be a nice option as less hose would be needed. I will have to look around back there. Since mine is an HDJ81, the left side is where the OEM Jack is stored.
 
All,
Here is a sample of the diff fluid/oil that I just took from the diff. What do you guys think? It looks like redline hi shok 75w90 to me. I added diff fluid/oil back in that was taken out and both plugs are torqued to spec. I need to crawl back under and look at that diff lock breather again, learn something new everyday.

View attachment 3655360
Looks like a water gear oil milkshake to me.
 
. I want to get the extended breather lines and route them up to a high spot in the engine bay. I think Terrain Tamer sells a 2 breather kit and a 3 breather kit. Looking for them now.
I ran my rear diff breather up onto the left side quarter panel.
There no good route to run it to the engine bay IMO.

I used 6mm fuel hose. Its cheap, and oil resistant
 
I've found the metal fitting that this house connects to on the diff housing is what gets clogged.
Years of baked in oil residue will build up and block the thin metal spigot.

The fitting is threaded into the diff housing. Easy to remove and clean it so debris don't go into the diff.

That sample of oil does look odd, but I'm not familiar with the pink gear oil you've used.
 
I've found the metal fitting that this house connects to on the diff housing is what gets clogged.
Years of baked in oil residue will build up and block the thin metal spigot.

The fitting is threaded into the diff housing. Easy to remove and clean it so debris don't go into the diff.

That sample of oil does look odd, but I'm not familiar with the pink gear oil you've used.
Ok, it’s Redline Hi Shok 75w90, distinctly pink.
 
You can see water in the sample? Wouldn’t water eventually separate from the oil? Would the water be clear if I ran through muddy water?
It’s been churned up and emulsified. It may not separate for 24-48 hours. I doubt that is what it looked like when you filled it. I have used redline before and it is red, not pink.
 
Send a sample to Blackstone Laboratories if you want to know what's in the oil.

Either way if there's any question IMHO it's better to just dump it, run some cheapo oil until you get the Blackstone report back.

Blackstone's website mentions engine oil but you can send any lube oil to them for analysis, they will send you free collection bottles if you call:

 
Yes, it looks like Harrop has a diff breather kit with 4 lines for $175+tax+shipping through Cruiser Borthers. Is there a specific fuel hose to use? Could I use Gates tranny fluid hose? I would want to extend all 3 diff breather lines, the center diff breather could be tough to get to.
I use Gates fuel line (1/4").
 
Send a sample to Blackstone Laboratories if you want to know what's in the oil.

Either way if there's any question IMHO it's better to just dump it, run some cheapo oil until you get the Blackstone report back.

Blackstone's website mentions engine oil but you can send any lube oil to them for analysis, they will send you free collection bottles if you call:

I have a few BL bottles waiting to be used, this is a good idea. Thanks.
 
Also I'm in the camp of running cheap dino gear oil in my 80 diffs and changing it once a year. The front diff oil gets contaminated from the grease in the birfs and both front and rear can get contaminated from water and dirt from wheeling, frequent changes keeps everything running clean. The fancy synthetic gear lube makes sense for a tow rig that gets a lot of high-load high-temp highway miles and doesn't see much dirt and water contamination so you don't need to change it very often.
 
Also I'm in the camp of running cheap dino gear oil in my 80 diffs and changing it once a year. The front diff oil gets contaminated from the grease in the birfs and both front and rear can get contaminated from water and dirt from wheeling, frequent changes keeps everything running clean. The fancy synthetic gear lube makes sense for a tow rig that gets a lot of high-load high-temp highway miles and doesn't see much dirt and water contamination so you don't need to change it very often.
I think I am going to do a full drain and refill of the rear today, I communicated with Redline and using their “Hi-Shok” lube really isn’t necessary for what I do so I will go with the regular Redline 75W90. Might as well look at the front diff as well, check everything over, drain and refill. Can’t hurt, maybe a slight dent in my wallet.
 
Well, here is the sample at 36 hrs later. I can see up close a thin line on top which could be water separation. I am going to drain and refill today. Any thing else I should do? Would a drain and refill 2-3x be necessary?

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Do you have any of the Redline Hi-Shok left? If so then pour some into a similar container and compare them side by side. I don't think you need to do anything more than a drain and refill, even if you have some water contamination. I use the regular Redline Synthetic 75W90 in all my differentials and it is definitely red but I think the Hi-Shok is supposed to be pink (no personal experience with it though).
 
Well, here is the sample at 36 hrs later. I can see up close a thin line on top which could be water separation. I am going to drain and refill today. Any thing else I should do? Would a drain and refill 2-3x be necessary?

View attachment 3656285

Water will settle to the bottom, not the top.

I think draining and refilling is a good idea.
Keep that sample and see if it continues to settle, more for curiosity/ future reference.
 
Do you have any of the Redline Hi-Shok left? If so then pour some into a similar container and compare them side by side. I don't think you need to do anything more than a drain and refill, even if you have some water contamination. I use the regular Redline Synthetic 75W90 in all my differentials and it is definitely red but I think the Hi-Shok is supposed to be pink (no personal experience with it though).
No, I used the remainder of the last bottle to refill after I drained the sample. I swear the Redline Hi-shok stuff is pink but maybe it’s more red. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
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