Diesel FJ40, 1974FJ

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Yeah, thats the perfect setup for the most flex out of those springs, but i feel that for me and the fact this is gonna be my daily driver that its too much of an angle. Im gonna move mine to get a better angle, just not that much. Thanks for sharing!
 
Well, i spent my saturday with a grinder and welder in my hand. I finially made the trac-bar!

I ordered some bushing and a ball joint from ballistic fab, sweet stuff! and then i started cutting and fabin'. I First had to make a rear crossmember. I wanted it close to the output of the t-case but i also wanted it removable too. So this is what i came up with... 2"x.250wall with a bend i made for the output



 
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I wanted to make a truss for the rear axle but decided it wouldn't look right, so i came up with something that has an original look(in a backwards upside-down kinda way). I used the idea of the fj60 and fj80 axle housing mini-truss that they have welded on the bottom side of their axles and made my own to weld to the top. This also gives me more to weld too for my trac-bar bracket.

I made one of these for both sides but i didnt get it welded on yet...



 
Very cool. A trac bar is on my list of things to fab up.
 
Dan, ill have to get back to you on that, i got it from scott oswalt so he would know.

I got my rear hard brake lines done! im pleased. I borrowed a tube bender and a flaring tool to complete this but im pleased. I also had to run the brake lines to the master cylinder too, Im tired of brake lines now!. I mocked up the shock mounts but im going to move the rear shackle hanger so i may move the shock mounts aswell.

 
I think this is a cruiser tear..




Im getting closer.....moved out of my tiny little shop to clean all that grinding dust that is everywhere!!!!!





Wanted to share this photo of what southerncruiser62 and i spotted one day in raleigh, pretty funny and it appeared to be well done.

 
Your downpipe looks nice and smooth. I'm sure you plan on wrapping the downpipe but I'd also consider some shielding to keep some of the heat off the floor. I've taken several trips in mine and while coating the firewall and wrapping the exhaust has helped it still gets pretty warm. I'll be looking at setting up some shielding with ~1" air pocket between the shield and the body on mine.
 
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Agreed Mike, I tried routing it elsewhere but this worked out the best. I looked into that secondskinaudio coating and will consider it. Ive got between 3-3.5" at the floorboards around my feet that i can play with coatings and heatshields. I could always run one of those nascar drivers heat shield they have attached to their ankles......NOT!!
 
The body work has started. I got my CCOT panels in at the end of last week and couldnt wait to get started. I read the directions from CCOT and sorta followed what they suggest. I ended up dilling out both the wheelwell resistant-spot-welds and the spotwelds on the upper flange where they tell you to cut through. I did this so i could used that upper flange to clamp my panels for a even surface. Took alot of guess work out...easy too. I have since fully welded the panels one both sides. What i plan to do now is similar to what mtweller has done. He has also run the 55 rear springs and with the stock fenders he cut the rear curved section out and moved it farther back. Ill post pictures when i get to that but it basically looks like the factory opening but is longer to accept the extended wheelbase. I just hope i can do as nice a job as he has.

Before i could get going on the panels i had to completely repair my rear seal. It was in pretty foul shape. its not in showroom shape now either but lets be honest, this this isnt showroom quality. Nothing body filler cant hide.....haha







 
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Ill have to take more pictures but i also completed the exhaust! 3.5" from turbo to tailpipe! so pumped with how it turned out. I understand its going to be an issue to keep my feet cool but i feel confident that i can make it bearable(i think, lol)

I couldnt see paying someone to bend me up some exhaust when i would want to spend more time doing it right than any exhaust fabricator around here would care to spend, trust me i know! Also, i wanted complete mandrel bends(3.5" across any cross section of the radius) for the best flow since i realized an intercooler was out of the question. Most muffler shop benders cant bend that large of pipe and if they could it would be very distorted and wrinkly. YES, i realize it not that necessary for the 3.5" exhaust but if i can run it....why not. It will help me with egts alittle..I got a volvo intercooler from local salvage yard in great shape but i would have to modify the front grill WAY TO MUCH, i couldnt handle that. So for now im going to hope for the best and run the wide open exhaust with 3" intake plumbing in hopes i dont see too high of temps...Always something that can be fixed later..

To find this tubing, i took it off a early model powerstroke(the rusted section of tubing) and the rest came from a mack truck(v12 gasser that had 3.5" tubing that was coated so its in much better shape. So ive got a Frankenstein exhaust that consist of about 20 sections, haha. Its all tacked together now but will be fully welded tomorrow morning. teaser photo

 
Yea, pics are deceiving, i did everything i could to get it farther away from that control valve. It wont hit it i know and i feel confident that im far enough away from it to not destroy it with the heat. as for starting it up and shutting it off i have not tried yet. I disconnected alot of things that would allow me to start it up right now. But i will see soon enough.
 
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