Diesel FJ40, 1974FJ

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Well fellas, things were supposed to go alot better.
I had a nice fj40 that i was driving daily that i decided to change over to diesel by running the CTD 4BT. Well did the research, finally got the engine, then CRASH!!. I rolled the cruiser over in a busy intersection, i am currently trying to get money from the insurance company so i can get started on this ASAP! So now the build up will be of me trying to resurrect the old cruiser back to life with a diesel heart!

Heres what i had and then what happened....




CRASH!!

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after alot of searching, i was able to get this Cummins for a great price and pretty local. If you are seriously interested in buying one please PM me and I can give you the information to the guy/company i bought mine from.
The motor is a 4BT with 118k miles on it with the larger H1C turbo. Has great oil pressure too.
When i got it, it had just been pulled from the Chevy style P30 stepvan. This meant the diesel was dirty for one, but it also meant that the engine had a power steering pump and a low-rear mounted turbo(as opposed to the ford style van that had a centered high mount which wouldn't work for my hood because these motors are tall!!!)
the VE pump on my motor is almost new too that i didn't know till i picked it up, nice surprise!

This is what i meant the engine was dirty...



 
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after doing more looking aorund, i found out that Northern Tool and Equipment carries alot of engine paint, even Cummins beige! I thought it would be really cool to paint it the Cummins Beige, and I like it alot! I torn down most of the motor for cleaning, took apart turbo too. I also picked up some high temp header/manifold paint to paint the exhaust manifold and exhaust housing of the turbo. Next my im going to install the 366K governor spring i got. the factory spring allows the motor to only turn around 2500 rpms so this new spring will help me whin the motor to 3200rpms.





 
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neat thing about this motor is that its very interchangeable with the larger 6bt engine, found in dodge pickups, both 12valve and 24valves.
I was able to find one at a local salvage yard and pick a few parts off of it i wanted for very cheap, and I got a exhaust manifold(that i plan to custom build later) a vertical oil cooler, block heater cord, intake plate that i also plan to modify and a intercooler intake horn all for $20!!!

heres the oil cooler swap. reason for doing so is so when changing filter oil does get every where which i would.







 
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This past weekend i was able to head up state and pick up a frame from some good friends of mine(Thank you Juan and Maria) to use for the wrecked cruiser. The cruiser doesnt have a whole lot of body damage to it, but the frame took all the impact, seeing as how it bent a good 7-8 inches. So heres what i got, and now the plan is to get to working on this new frame..








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I got the diesel for cheaper than most since i had a core to trade with also. I picked it up for 1.5k. The 3600 rpm spring doesn't allow me to quit get that much range out of the engine, it will be more like 3200 rpms. The spring was designed for the larger 6bts but work great for this 4bt.
 
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Congrats on getting another frame. I guess this might take longer than a month or two, eh? The spring is commonly referenced as the 366 spring and it allows up to 3200 rpm.

Yes Ned if one was planning on running the cummins beyond the 3200rpm mark it's time to start looking at some head studs and heavier valve springs to be safe.

I just installed my 366 spring yesterday and it does make getting on the freeway even easier but I'm sure this will be no good for mileage. :rolleyes: I also advanced the timing on the pump and it's a little smoother and I saw a decress in EGT. Getting to the back-block allen head on the IP proved to be challenging for me so I think it's wise to get it done while the engine is free standing. Just makes it easier to move your body around to get in the right position. I'm at the point now that I've run the stock settings and have a better feel for the engine and rig together so now I'm going to tune the IP some to get what I want out of it.

How much clearance do you have with your vertical oil filter and the turbo intake?
 
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C

How much clearance do you have with your vertical oil filter and the turbo intake?

None at all! haha
The plan is to run a chopped and flipped 6bt manifold, but with what i have now that turbo would suck up the oil filter for sure. and yes your right about the 366, i was thinking is was 3600, my bad.
 
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Sounds like plan. If you haven't already found this site it was helpful to me when I opened up the pump and replaced the spring.

Den - Dodge CTD 1st Gen - VE Governor Spring Install

The only confusion I had was "setting" the throttle before putting the arm back on the shaft. I turned the shaft clockwise as far as it would go after I put the top half back on the pump and then lined up the tick marks as I found them (which happened to be the 4 up from the bottom on the left side) when I put the bottom throttle arm on.
 
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That's who I bought it from too. I'm a picture boy so that site helped with the visual part of it.

I didn't need to move the high idle screw but did have to move the low idle screw in to get access to the allen head underneath it. I also didn't need to loosen the bolts holding the pump to the gear cover. After you're done you might need to touch up paint the spots that might get nicked. I know I've got a few places to touch up now. I did replace the front seal as a precausion when I fixed the KDP and I bought my seal from a cummins dealer. I'm sure you've read but the seal goes on dry. I didn't replace the rear.
 
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Theres a local salvage yard that has a few Toyota Tacoma rear axles. A few of them are the v6 versions that I'm looking for. I'm Looking for the Tacoma 8" (8.4) rear axle from 97-02 4-runner or Tacoma v6. Needs to be 4.1 ratio.
without knowing much about them(i don't know if all v6 tacomas have the 8"), seeing as how i don't know what they look like, is there a way to tell if its the quote, 8"?
I guess the biggest question would be, will this axle hold the torque of the 4bt...? what would you think.....4bt will have around 150hp and 450 foot pounds.
any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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not much of an update, but without a cruiser to work on its tough.

My cruiser is a SOA with both the front and rear springs flipped. One of the things i always wanted to fix was the rear shock mount location so it would work better with my axle farther back. So i cut the shock mounts off the cross member and turned them around and re-welded them. It looks stock but should work much better for me.




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next, i stole this idea from some 4bt buddies. I took at manifold from a 6bt and cut the number 1 and 6 cylinder ports off and plan to nickel weld a plate in its place. Doing this will allow me to have a high center mount turbo which should work better for me in the 40.
Heres what i have so far:


6BT manifold



Marked for my cuts



Finally! i even went old school on it and used a hack-saw for the last little bit of cut that my cutoff wheel couldn't reach. oh well, got it. ready to be welded.



 
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i really like the 6bt manifold mod.
it makes more sense to me to have the turbo mounted in a more central/equidistant location instead of all the way to one side like the 4bt manifold.

keep up the really clean work, it looks great.


malphrus
 
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Thanks Malph, stay tuned!

A small but exciting update.....
I was lucky enough to find a STEAL of a DEAL on a hy35w turbo today(cough cough.....$40). So i have that to play with now and try and get it where i want it. Ive got pictures below that show the chopped 6t manifold flipped and the hy35w mounted. I know the turbo isn't sitting right, but i mounted to see what i wanted to do and what i had room to do. I'm also going to tear down this turbo and clean it up, i haven't decided if i want to rebuild it. I put some oil down in it today because it didn't spin as nice as it should(been sitting in a salvage yard bolted to a 24v for who knows how long) and now it spins pretty freely but i think i hear it rubbing the housing a little but i cant see any damage on the fins. I think with the money i saved on the turbo, i should rebuild just in case. Enjoy

I got all this too....





 
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Another thing is that its going to be hard to rotate both housing to face where i want them. This is because both the housing are connected by the WG. If any of you have any ideas to on rotating the housing separate i would much appreciate it. I guess there is always the option to weld the WG shut and remove it all together, i should then be able to rotate both housing however i want. So i will be doing a lot of tinkering to see if i can get it to sit like i want.



 

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