Dash / Gauge Lights

[wngrog]

My alternator is an internal regulator FJ-60.

I'm going to eliminate it. Thanks for catching this.

 

[Reaper71]

Coolerman, I have a customer's fj40 (78) and he bought one of the (79) clusters and I have all the gauges working except the fuel.
It goes straight to full when I turn on the key.
I have the early model sender and a new sender both from 120ohms to 17ohms and neither ones work.
Any Ideas guys (1st post here as well)
Here is a shot of the one I'm restoring now 3rd one so far.

Mark

 

[Reaper71]

One more thing, I removed all wires from sending unit and turned on key and still shoots to full.
Sound like its shorting to ground?

Mark

 

[Bear Lake Cruiser]

Capice!
Okay, see the picture below.
Take out that "old" piece of wire (marked orange) with the taped connector.
Connect the White/Blue from the harness to the Black Fusible Link wire and the Black wire to the Ammeter.
Connect the White/Blue from the Ammeter to the other side of the Fusible Link.
This is important otherwise the Ammeter will show reverse reading.
View attachment 1211600

Part ll
Your test..... nothing wrong with that and the temperature. You're draining your battery at high speed and yes.... that creates heat.
The wiring in those Cruisers is on the tiny side. As soon as the engine is running and the alternator does his job, your temperature problem will disappear.

Rudi

Good morning. Well it has been awhile. My ammeter worked for about a year and then stopped. I finally got around to checking it yesterday. Everything checked out, continuity through the circuits where needed and 12.5 volts at rest where needed. I even pulled the cluster twice, the second time to install a brand new Ammeter. Even doubled up the length of the 14 gauge wire loop. Any ideas? Back to o

riginal configuration when I initially got it to work, latest picture attached as I have a new battery and cables since then. Maybe I will give up and put an aftermarket or old Toyota volt meter in its place if anyone has suggestion on this, maintaining stock look.

 

[1911]

I guess you know for sure that your alternator is good? Other than that, a head scratcher.

I replaced my stock ammeter with an off-the-shelf aftermarket voltmeter, but the mud member that made the custom mask for that doesn't make them anymore.

my gauge cluster

• 1911
• Jan 8, 2018
• 1

 

[Bear Lake Cruiser]

I guess you know for sure that your alternator is good? Other than that, a head scratcher.

I replaced my stock ammeter with an off-the-shelf aftermarket voltmeter, but the mud member that made the custom mask for that doesn't make them anymore.

my gauge cluster

• 1911
• Jan 8, 2018
• 1

Yep, ammeter brand new out of the box, it metered 0 ohms through it just like the old one. Alternator fairly new as well. I do have a digital volt meter mounted on my tuffy console (which I cant see while driving) and it is pushing plenty of volts Yes, I'm baffled. I like the look of yours for sure. Too bad NLA. This is a daily driver, if the alternator was bad, It would have manifested itself long ago.

 

[cims1970fj40]

Reviving an old thread. My cluster lights aren’t currently working but when I turn on the hazards they flash and I know the amp gauge works as well. I haven’t started the cruiser in a while so not sure if the other gauges work are not. Also I replaced the bulbs with LED a few years ago but been working on the cruiser since I’ve had it so it shouldn’t the bulbs. My question for now before I remove the cluster is will any of the other lights have anything to do with it? My running lights work and currently don’t have my license plate lights hooked up. Also my heater control light is hooked up to the wires but I believe I don’t have a bulb in currently. Also my dash pad light has LED and is also not coming on. Can’t remember if my high beam indicator comes on or not. Not home currently but plan on looking into later tonight. Any help would be great. Thanks

 

[cims1970fj40]

Also forgot to mention it’s a 74 fj40