Dash / Gauge Lights (1 Viewer)

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twin cities
 
 
 
 
There appears to be a bulb in the light switch. Is this necessar for the dash lights to work. It is burned out

Why is it there anyway?

Thanks
 
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I have my rebuilt cluster complete with the cruiseruser LED and Autometer gauges for sale. It does need a gas gauge though. Rudi helped out a lot with his instructions and advice on repairing it but, the gauge died in surgery.

Make me a reasonable :hmm: offer and I'll ship it on my FedEx account.

Mitch.
 

Racer65

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If you mean this 3 prong connector.....
View attachment 701517
The two horizontal prongs are for the Ammeter (12V when the key is in the "on" position) and the vertical one is ground for the High Beam Indicator.

Rudi
View attachment 701517
Waking up an old thread. If one were to put in a late model gauge cluster into a pre-'79 vehicle, what's the correct thing to do with this 3 prong connector?
 

bj40green

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Waking up an old thread. If one were to put in a late model gauge cluster into a pre-'79 vehicle, what's the correct thing to do with this 3 prong connector?
The difference between a pre '79 and '79 and later is the Ammeter.
On a pre '79 it's a 30-0-30 Ammeter. In this set up the full current (charge and discharge) flows through the Ammeter.
ammeter diagram till end '78.jpg


On a '79 and later it's a 50-0-50 Ammeter. In this set up the full current goes through a fusible link.
ammeter diagram '79 and later + text.JPG

This Fusible link works also as a shunt resistor and the voltage drop over this link/resistor is used to get the Ammeter working.

Unfortunately the OEM fusible link has a design error but Mud member @amaurer found a solution for this.
Ammeter shunt1_text.JPG


Ammeter shunt2.jpg

In short.... you have to make a modification in the Ammeter circuit.

Rudi
 
Last edited:

Bear Lake Cruiser

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The difference between a pre '79 and '79 and later is the Ammeter.
On a pre '79 it's a 30-0-30 Ammeter. In this set up the full current (charge and discharge) flows through the Ammeter.
View attachment 1167332

On a '79 and later it's a 50-0-50 Ammeter. In this set up the full current goes through a fusible link.
View attachment 1167331
This Fusible link works also as a shunt resistor and the voltage drop over this link/resistor is used to get the Ammeter working.

Unfortunately the OEM fusible link has a design error but Mud member Amaurer found a solution for this.
View attachment 1167333

View attachment 1167334
In short.... you have to make a modification in the Ammeter circuit.

Rudi
On the wires in the fusible link to cut and insert this loop....can you clarify which one to cut. I have an 81 fj40 but I am not in a place to go look at it for a few days
 

78fj40mg

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The difference between a pre '79 and '79 and later is the Ammeter.
On a pre '79 it's a 30-0-30 Ammeter. In this set up the full current (charge and discharge) flows through the Ammeter.
View attachment 1167332

On a '79 and later it's a 50-0-50 Ammeter. In this set up the full current goes through a fusible link.
View attachment 1167331
This Fusible link works also as a shunt resistor and the voltage drop over this link/resistor is used to get the Ammeter working.

Unfortunately the OEM fusible link has a design error but Mud member Amaurer found a solution for this.
View attachment 1167333

View attachment 1167334
In short.... you have to make a modification in the Ammeter circuit.

Rudi
Hey Rudi you are awesome!:cheers:
 

bj40green

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On the wires in the fusible link to cut and insert this loop....can you clarify which one to cut. I have an 81 fj40 but I am not in a place to go look at it for a few days
You have only one fusible link. It runs from the battery to the ignition switch and looks like this. I'm not 100% sure if this one is from a 1981 FJ40.
The one in the picture is defective, one wire is disconnected.
Note the black and white/blue wire to the Ammeter.
FLink-text.JPG


It is the red arrow in the wiring diagram
1981 FJ40 series USA & Canada_ammeter_arrow.jpg


Have fun & good luck.

Rudi
 

Bear Lake Cruiser

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You have only one fusible link. It runs from the battery to the ignition switch and looks like this. I'm not 100% sure if this one is from a 1981 FJ40.
The one in the picture is defective, one wire is disconnected.
Note the black and white/blue wire to the Ammeter.
View attachment 1167615

It is the red arrow in the wiring diagram
View attachment 1167616

Have fun & good luck.

Rudi
Rudi, I finally got around to looking at my FH40 alternator circuit. Unfortunately the previous owner had removed the OEM fusible link and spliced in new link as well as some higher amp fuses. Before I try the 14 gauge wire loop to get the amp gauge working, I notice on the wiring diagram for the 81 there are the two 5 amp fuses that are located next to the combination meter block rather than up by the right front fender as per earlier models. Can you tell me where these fuses are physically located on my 81? That may be the only problem I have. Electrically everything charges and discharges just fine, no issues at all. Other than zero needle deflection on the amp gauge no matter how much I discharge the battery and then recharge during running. I bet you are going to tell me these two fuses require a Houdini move to get to them for a continuity check! One other question. It appears the headlamp switch should illuminate with a tiny bulb when running or headlamps are on. Is this true and if so do you know the bulb replacement type?
Thanks, Tom
 

Coolerman

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Those two fuses are mounted in a little black plastic box that is taped to the main harness in the engine bay close to the battery. Here is a pic... This is from Lost Marbles BJ40...
Ammeterfuses2.jpg


I'm not sure about the headlight bulb for a 1981. It's a BA7 for earlier years.
 

Bear Lake Cruiser

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I
Those two fuses are mounted in a little black plastic box that is taped to the main harness in the engine bay close to the battery. Here is a pic... This is from Lost Marbles BJ40...
View attachment 1210761

I'm not sure about the headlight bulb for a 1981. It's a BA7 for earlier years.
wish that little black holder was there on mine. I remember it's location from a previous cruiser I had. Can not seem to find it on my 81. I thought they may have moved it behind the cluster in a usa 81. Maybe the previous owner has them well taped but I can't see a bump under any taping. One thing he did was tape everything very nicely. I gotta give him that.
 

bj40green

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I

wish that little black holder was there on mine. I remember it's location from a previous cruiser I had. Can not seem to find it on my 81. I thought they may have moved it behind the cluster in a usa 81. Maybe the previous owner has them well taped but I can't see a bump under any taping. One thing he did was tape everything very nicely. I gotta give him that.
Look at the wire colors and shape of the fuse box that Coolerman posted. Maybe the PO moved the fuse box.
As you can see in this pic the fuse box is close to the fusible link in a 1981 FJ40 USA model.
fuse box 2_5Amp.jpg

In ORANGE the fuse box, close to the fusible link in that piece of the harness.
So.... maybe the PO moved it?

Rudi
 

Bear Lake Cruiser

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Going to unwrap some tape today to see if it buried but I'm thinking PO removed it as the wire loom is wrapped quite smooth with no obvious lump for that fuse holder. If I find it and pull the fuses and check them for continuity, while the fuses are out I should be able measure continuity through the ammeter itself to check if the gauge is good. I guess it's possible the gauge itself is toast.
 

Bear Lake Cruiser

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20160219_111801.jpg
20160219_111801.jpg
20160219_111621.jpg
20160219_111801.jpg
20160219_111621.jpg
The two 5A fuses have been replaced by PO 10amp blade fuses. I always wondered what those were for sticking out of the taped harness. They were fine. So the ammeter should work. Maybe the gauge itself is defective. However I found this single 5 amp fuse connected to the thick WB hot wire and then a blue with red stripe wire. I can't find this on my Fsm diagram. Any idea what it is for? Also found this empty rubberized socket and see no mention of it on the wiring diagram either. It has a blue with red stripe and a black with whites stripe. Ideas?
 

bj40green

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Here is the wiring diagram for a 1981 FJ40 USA & Canada:
Click on the "wheel" to get a full size download.
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k490/ruud_coco/Wiring diagrams/1981 FJ40 series USA amp Canada_zps1l50ozfd.jpg



The fat White/Blue going to a fuse and into Blue/Red looks like a bypass from the Heater fuse.
Blue/Red = Heater, Cluster, Brake warning light and Back up light switch
Black/White is a wire between the IGN key "start" and the starter motor. Also for a bulb check relay if it's an Australian model.

Changing the 2x 5Amps for 2x 10 Amps is NOT a good idea!!!! Check Ammeter for continuity.

Rudi
 

Bear Lake Cruiser

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Here is the wiring diagram for a 1981 FJ40 USA & Canada:
Click on the "wheel" to get a full size download.
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k490/ruud_coco/Wiring diagrams/1981 FJ40 series USA amp Canada_zps1l50ozfd.jpg



The fat White/Blue going to a fuse and into Blue/Red looks like a bypass from the Heater fuse.
Blue/Red = Heater, Cluster, Brake warning light and Back up light switch
Black/White is a wire between the IGN key "start" and the starter motor. Also for a bulb check relay if it's an Australian model.

Changing the 2x 5Amps for 2x 10 Amps is NOT a good idea!!!! Check Ammeter for continuity.

Rudi
Yes I see that glass fuse on my diagram now. Grid c2. Calls for 15 amp for supplying main relay and pressure switch. I'll change out my 5 for a 15.

That rubber socket must used for another iteration of 40. It looks as though it never was plugged into anything. The BW wire does not go hot with the key in the start position. I'll just tape it up and forget about it.

I'll cut out those 10 amp blade fuse and revert to 5 amp glass as per original.

Lastly I will disconnect the battery and to see if ammeter is zero ohms
 

Bear Lake Cruiser

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You've a sharp eye! :clap: I didn't see that one :bang:.

Rudi
All rewired as per wiring diagram. Ammeter at about 1.5 ohms. 18 inch of 14 gauge installed. Still no meter movement. The larger gauge whit blue stripe that goes from the taped oem plug into the harness heats up to 108 degrees when engine off and every electrical component on. Cooler when eine and charging. I'm stumped. I guess I'll move onto the next project and just live with the goofy ammeter operation....or non operation as it seems.
20160219_153324.jpg
20160219_153324.jpg
 

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