CV failure (1 Viewer)

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Mar 24, 2016
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I had my 2" lift installed last night, springs, shocks, SPC UCA's and Dobinson's adjustable rear pan-hard bar. I drove it home 10 miles, no issues other than the alignment being off as expected. I took it to the alignment shop today (they specialize if aligning lifted vehicles and have for decades), it still drove like it did last night. The shop takes it for a quick spin initially, no issues, they return to make initial caster and camber adjustments, another quick test drive and no issues. They make their final toe and re-centering the steering wheel adjustments and take it for it final test drive and upon turning around to head back to shop a loud continuous clunk from the front drivers side appears under acceleration from a stop. Tech initially thinks that it's loose lug nuts or possibly my wheel spacers but they both check out and are tight. They get it in the air and rotate the tire and he can see a hop and bind in the inner most part of the shaft and boot that go into the differential on the driver side.

I confirm the same issue, it does it under acceleration from a complete stand still up to about 20 mph and then goes away if driving in a straight line. The hop is present when turning as well at slow speeds, it's both audible and you can physically feel it through the steering wheel and through seat of pants. CDL still engages/disengages and there are no lights or error codes. No torn boots, leaks, signs of physical damage or marring anywhere on the axle, diff or hub/spindle. I got it over to the stealership and the service writer says it sounds like the CV as well and they actually just had a 2006 100 Series in for one earlier this week. They told me they do happen on the 200 but usually only on the early model years with high miles, they've never seen one from a 2016+ with low miles and in such obvious good shape. I won't know the diagnosis or status until lunch tomorrow but I fully don't expect them to cover this under my drivetrain warranty given the lift which sucks.

Has anyone else experienced this, does this sound like the CV or could it possibly even be a front differential issue? I can't imagine anything that the alignment shop did to align the truck could have anything to do with this nor the shop that did the lift install. I opened the KDSS valves for them before the install and I closed them back up myself as well. Have these failed prematurely for no reason for others, is it a good chance that the lift had something to do with it (seems unlikely given how many run them without issue) and should I be looking into any other possibilities? I'll update the issue tomorrow once I hear back from the dealer.
 
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I had my 2" lift installed last night, springs, shocks, SPC UCA's and Dobinson's adjustable rear pan-hard bar. I drove it home 10 miles, no issues other than the alignment being off as expected. I took it to the alignment shop today (they specialize if aligning lifted vehicles and have for decades), it still drove like it did last night. The shop takes it for a quick spin initially, no issues, they return to make initial caster and camber adjustments, another quick test drive and no issues. They make their final toe and re-centering the steering wheel adjustments and take it for it final test drive and upon turning around to head back to shop a loud continuous clunk from the front drivers side appears under acceleration from a stop. Tech initially thinks that it's loose lug nuts or possibly my wheel spacers but they both check out and are tight. They get it in the air and rotate the tire and he can see a hop and bind in the inner most part of the shaft and boot that go into the differential on the driver side.

I confirm the same issue, it does it under acceleration from a complete stand still up to about 20 mph and then goes away if driving in a straight line. The hop is present when turning as well at slow speeds, it's both audible and you can physically feel it through the steering wheel and through seat of pants. CDL still engages/disengages and there are no lights or error codes. No torn boots, leaks, signs of physical damage or marring anywhere on the axle, diff or hub/spindle. I got it over to the stealership and the service writer says it sounds like the CV as well and they actually just had a 2006 100 Series in for one earlier this week. They told me they do happen on the 200 but usually only on the early model years with high miles, they've never seen one from a 2016+ with low miles and in such obvious good shape. I won't know the diagnosis or status until lunch tomorrow but I fully don't expect them to cover this under my drivetrain warranty given the lift which sucks.

Has anyone else experienced this, does this sound like the CV or could it possibly even be a front differential issue? I can't imagine anything that the alignment shop did to align the truck could have anything to do with this nor the shop that did the lift install. I opened the KDSS valves for them before the install and I closed them back up myself as well. Have these failed prematurely for no reason for others, is it a good chance that the lift had something to do with it (seems unlikely given how many run them without issue) and should I be looking into any other possibilities? I'll update the issue tomorrow once I head back from the dealer.
Sounds like a bad CV. It’s possible you popped it loose from the cage when installing the lift. Reboot it if they can, otherwise just replace it. Local dealer here charges about $300 to reboot. A new CV list price I think is $700 or so… probably $1k installed, but if the balls and cage are good and smooth you can just reboot it
 
Sounds like a bad CV. It’s possible you popped it loose from the cage when installing the lift. Reboot it if they can, otherwise just replace it. Local dealer here charges about $300 to reboot. A new CV list price I think is $700 or so… probably $1k installed, but if the balls and cage are good and smooth you can just reboot it

Should be able to find the CV for between $350 and $400. I believe CV install is same or less install time than the re-boot. When I had a torn boot, it was cheaper to just have them replace the whole CV than do a re-boot.
 
Darn, that's what I figured. Hopefully they can reboot it, I'll know more tomorrow.
 
Does sounds like the CV is the culprit. Like @linuxgod , I suspect that they may have overextended the CV during the lift install which is not uncommon. LC CVs , including those on the 100-series, are gargantuan and don't pop without reason.

What's your spring/shock setup? Asking to make sure you don't have an OEM spacer installed on top of an extended travel shock. Doubt that's the reason, but just checking to be sure.
 
Does sounds like the CV is the culprit. Like @linuxgod , I suspect that they may have overextended the CV during the lift install which is not uncommon. LC CVs , including those on the 100-series, are gargantuan and don't pop without reason.

What's your spring/shock setup? Asking to make sure you don't have an OEM spacer installed on top of an extended travel shock. Doubt that's the reason, but just checking to be sure.

I do not, I purposely had them not reinstall the OEM spacers with the kit. OME 2" until King's show up.
 
So, how does one prevent this problem from happening if doing the work themselves? It’s been 30 years since I had a CV joint apart and up close, so I’m struggling to picture this. Just before x-mas I installed a 1” Dobinson IMS lift myself and appear to have avoided a similar fate as the OP. The question is why? Did I just not drop or extend the spindle housing down far enough to dislocate the cv joint? Is it that easy to fall apart with gravity? Or does it take some force to pop it out?

EDIT: Found an answer using search function.
 
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Dealer called and confirmed it is the CV and it'll need to be replaced, P/N 43430-60071. They are claiming it's on a nationwide backorder, funny because I am seeing them in stock on multiple sights. Prices vary but they are charging $529 for the part and another $719 in shop supplies and labor, this sounds outrageous to me. So now I am having to eat a repair that should have never happened and I am without the vehicle for an unknown amount of time, very frustrating.
 
Dealer called and confirmed it is the CV and it'll need to be replaced, P/N 43430-60071. They are claiming it's on a nationwide backorder, funny because I am seeing them in stock on multiple sights. Prices vary but they are charging $529 for the part and another $719 in shop supplies and labor, this sounds outrageous to me. So now I am having to eat a repair that should have never happened and I am without the vehicle for an unknown amount of time, very frustrating.
It looks like Olathe Toyota parts has that in stock. Maybe call them and have it shipped overnight to you or the dealer. Their price even including overnight shipping could be less than your dealer.
 
Dealer called and confirmed it is the CV and it'll need to be replaced, P/N 43430-60071. They are claiming it's on a nationwide backorder, funny because I am seeing them in stock on multiple sights. Prices vary but they are charging $529 for the part and another $719 in shop supplies and labor, this sounds outrageous to me. So now I am having to eat a repair that should have never happened and I am without the vehicle for an unknown amount of time, very frustrating.
Did they say anything about replacing the CV under warranty?
 
Did they say anything about replacing the CV under warranty?

They said they would get a denial due to the lift install. I have informed the installer of his mistake, we shall see if he steps out and offers to assist monetarily in any way. Sucks because I have used him many times over the years with great success. Only once in the past has he broken a part and he stepped up and paid for that but it was only $150.
 
They said they would get a denial due to the lift install. I have informed the installer of his mistake, we shall see if he steps out and offers to assist monetarily in any way. Sucks because I have used him many times over the years with great success. Only once in the past has he broken a part and he stepped up and paid for that but it was only $150.

It's probably worthwhile asking the dealer if they'll even warranty the new CV that they'll be installing (as is typical w/ dealer work), considering they'll be installing it on a lifted vehicle. You might have a better chance with Toyota's standard part warranty for the new CV if you buy it yourself. Then maybe your lift guy will install it for free if you've already purchased the part?
 
Yep. They are definitely trying to screw us.
 
If you want simplest possible ability to return it in person if you buy it yourself, there are many of the discount parts sites around TX. For example, $374 at Lost Pines Toyota: 2008-2021 Toyota Land Cruiser Axle Assembly 43430-60071 | Parts Lost Pines Toyota - https://toyotaparts.lostpinestoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-axle-assembly-4343060071

According to multiple dealers here in Texas their systems show not a single one available in the state. I can get it expedited from Olathe so I am working on that. Installer has offered to do the install of a new one but I’d have to get it to his shop, is it safe to drive it a slow speeds or will it do more harm? Thoughts on an aftermarket replacement?
 
Ok I have the CV and axle nut coming from Olathe. The installer is going to replace it for me, he feels horrible. I am guessing that I should go ahead and replace the gear oil in the differential since we are in there and I have 55K miles on it as it is. Any links or suggestions on diff fluid change for the front diff?
 
I'd make sure that your installer and alignment shop didn't adjust the SPC Control arms too far forward, causing the CV issues before I put another CV in. @TexAZ had some issues breaking multiple CVs due to overzealous adjustment of his UCAs to try and gain more clearance at the back of the wheel well.

 

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