cv axle reboot?

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Joined
Apr 23, 2017
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25
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639
Location
Beautiful British Columbia
Hi all,

A mechanic said 1 of my inner tie rods has play, so I will do all tie rods ..

Today, I drove it and I heard a clicking noise at the front end. I was 10km away from home. I hear the clunk when I take my foot off the gas, but goes away when I accelerate ... took the wheel off when I arrived home, found the inner boot of the cv axle is torn all around at the outer edge .. the other inner boot is leaking I think from the clamp, not torn ..

My question is, should I reboot all boots or just replace the whole thing?


I am not sure if the axle failed yet with just 87k miles. It has been slowly leaking for about 20k miles since the 2” lift, but I think the 23 year old boot finally gave up ...

I called a mechanic who knows cruisers, he said “if it is the inner boot that leaked out, and the outer boot is good, and you hear clicking going forward, it might actually be something else, because those inner boots dont actually ………..”
I didnt understand what he said, but another cruiser mechanic explained that it might be your "flanges" that are clicking, which means more parts besides the axle work ..

Booking an appointment soon ..
 
I am confused why you are asking advice on what to replace when you have already spoke to the wrench that is going to do the work. He doesn't care what the internet has to say, and will charge more to reboot than to replace. Have him replace it, keep the old, and reboot it yourself as a spare. Otherwise pay the toll, and move on.
 
I'd replace FDS (AKA: CV) with new Toyota. Install a front differential Slee drop kit, before or at same time on lifted rigs.

Clicking FDS (AKA CV), is common. If lifted after factory FDS is broken-in at stock height. They'll usually start clicking about 20K miles after lifting.

Driving with a torn boot allow contaminates into CV races and bearing get damaged.

I's also replace diff side seals, when replacing FDS.
 
The first guy to develop a boot that can be installed without removing the CV will be a millionaire.

In the ACVW world they do exist but they aren’t that great. It is better than removing your axles from the transaxle to install seamless boots though.

IMG_8741.webp
 
I'd replace FDS (AKA: CV) with new Toyota. Install a front differential Slee drop kit, before or at same time on lifted rigs.

Clicking FDS (AKA CV), is common. If lifted after factory FDS is broken-in at stock height. They'll usually start clicking about 20K miles after lifting.

Driving with a torn boot allow contaminates into CV races and bearing get damaged.

I's also replace diff side seals, when replacing FDS.

Unfortunately, the mechanic near me doesn't want to inspect/work on my JDM so I have to find time to go to the cruiser specialist 25 miles away ..

However, the CLUNKING sound got louder today, I suspect it is the failing inner tie rod , not cv axels, as the steering wheel shakes above 70km/hr ...

I also remember my old LX's cv axels failed before I sold it, they were just clicking, not like the loud clunking metal on metal noise now ..

Thank you!
 
@2001LC @hoser

Funny update ... this is so embarrassing!🤣🤣

I drove to the cruiser specialist today, 30 miles, kept it under 80km/hr because the steering wheel was shaking ..
When I arrived I took a look around the car, I discovered the front wheel on the other side had 2 lug nuts missing, 1 about to fall off!!

Got the car inspected, put 2 lug nuts on, he showed me how to use the torque wrench haha ... went for a test drive, everything is good he said.

He said nothing is urgent, but recommended I keep these in my future shopping list:
- bearings
- Inner tie rods
- Axle seals
- New axles , I said why not reboot if they are not clicking, he said he wont waste time on that even if I paid him! Not sure what to do?


Driving home was nice with no clunking, no steering wheel shaking even at 120km/hr 🤣
 
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