May be obvious but you have been liberally spraying it every chance you get with PB? And there's no chance its welded on? (mine was, only reason I ask).
Crank nut, starter bump, flywheel
- Thread starter FJ60BigLou
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I would only apply heat as a second to last resort...
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- #23
Soaked in PB. Does thread palacement inhibit PB from being as effective? Don't know about being welded.
did you try a freshly charged battery? If your battery weren't pushing full capacity, your starter motor torque would be diminished. might even stick a pair of cables from a running rig to your jumper battery...14.4 volts is ALOT higher than 12.6
PB doesn't do much. Can't hurt though. When I finally got the nut free after soaking in Kroil, PB, for a week, the threads of the nut were completely dry. PB et al can't penetrate good steel. It works best when there's rust.
Understood on the 'good' steel but his hb isn't exactly new nor dies it look rust free. Spraying a tight nut w/ PB won't do any harm imo. It's better than not bothering at all.
Mine had a very obvious spot of weld on one edge of the nut. Granted it was the same rusty brown as the rest of the hb, it had a very obvious lump the size of a nickel. If I had a pix on my phone I'd add it but that was a number of months back when I had it off to the crank nose. As well as the fact someone took a crow bar to the nut as well as it its edges are scored w/ deep cuts.
Another way is if you have a slope, you can position the bar against the chassis and allow the vehicle to roll down hill and then put it into 4/5th gear and let the clutch out. Disconnect the coil beforehand.
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- #29
Another frustrating day. Charged the battery and tried the swinging breaker bar bump start. No luck. Tried the truck weight as well. Same result. Wire brushed the nut so it's not as rusty as on the pic and PBed it. I had tried PB before and didn't so much. In the pic is the set up for truck weight method (not lifted). I think the bar may be too long. What do you think?
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- #30
What's the last step?
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- #31
No hills around here. Clutch in place, no fluid or bleed yet.
Another frustrating day. Charged the battery and tried the swinging breaker bar bump start. No luck. Tried the truck weight as well. Same result. Wire brushed the nut so it's not as rusty as on the pic and PBed it. I had tried PB before and didn't so much. In the pic is the set up for truck weight method (not lifted). I think the bar may be too long. What do you think?
You should be able to get plenty of leverage with that long bar. You might try placing the floor jack under the end of the bar and jacking it as much as possible, or use a Hi-Lift if you have one.
yep and a buddy helps, too...I usually do these things solo and many times hoping no one can see, but if you had someone hold the apex of your wrench to keep it axially inline with the crank nut and holding pressure in while you torqued on it, you could prolly lever that thing loose with a good squat. my first thought seeing that pic is to also strap it down at the crossmember so it doesn't lift at all as you lever up the bar. Also, if your extensions aren't 3/4", they'll break. the last resort to getting the nut off is to break or cut it, but that's a whole other story.
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- #34
Gonna give it another go this weekend. Your ideas have been really good. Part of the problem... I think is that there is gear slop or slack when I use the breaker bar with or without the long 5' pole (check out earlier photo). I can turn with the breaker bar/pole but by the time the slack is taken out of it -- in 4th gear with concrete blocks as chocks -- I've lost room to turn the ratchet. When I attempt to reverse the ratchet the flywheel unwinds and I'm back at the starting point. Other than sticking a screwdriver against the flywheel teeth, does anyone know of a flywheel holder or clamp that I can use to hold it in place while I reverse the ratchet?
Drop the inspection cover and see if you can jam a piece of 2x4 or something similar between the bellhousing and flywheel. The teeth on the flywheel should bite into the wood and prevent it from turning.
Don't know if this will actually work or not but this is the type of "act of desperation" I would try.
Don't know if this will actually work or not but this is the type of "act of desperation" I would try.
There's an excellent chance of breaking the ratchet mechanism using an extension bar over its handle once you really start hanging on it. Use a breaker bar.
When I used the signature swinging breaker bar technique, I had another car running next to the cruiser with jumpers attached to both batteries. I don't think my battery could have done it all on its own.
When I used the signature swinging breaker bar technique, I had another car running next to the cruiser with jumpers attached to both batteries. I don't think my battery could have done it all on its own.
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For loosening and tightening flywheel bolts I wedge a large crowbar in the bellhousing against the flywheel teeth - works every time.Drop the inspection cover and see if you can jam a piece of 2x4 or something similar between the bellhousing and flywheel. The teeth on the flywheel should bite into the wood and prevent it from turning.
Don't know if this will actually work or not but this is the type of "act of desperation" I would try.
Dude I have to just chime in that this has been such a royal pita, I feel for you. @FJ40Jim.... way back when I remember calling you regarding my hb nut and thankfully you spared me from buying a huge compressor I didn't really need. You said use a breaker bar and it should go. I used a stretch of 5' pipe over my ratchet handle and it was fairly easy. Do you have special words of encouragement for this guy?
sounds to me like the issue is taking up the gear slop before we run into obstacles. the issue I see with wedging anything in the flywheel is potential for deadly flying objects...AND you should use a breaker. a 3/4"er. at this point anything less would be a willingly foolish thing to do. as well, the socket needs to be 3/4" else the adapter will twist off, as I'm sure the OP is ready to do already. step back. have beers. cus at it a few times without a wrench in your hand, and then apologize.
can you start taking up slop with the handle of the breaker alone, starting at about 9 or 10 oclock, and slip your cheater over the handle after you get it to about 4? If you could essentially- PRELOAD -the gearslop before eating into any of your usable heavy swing radius, you would maybe get over this hump. I'm guessing you run out of swing when you get the cheater to the fence...where did you start the swing from? can you rewind it any more, thus gaining more of a revolution?
anything you do that might break under the torque you want to throw at it can very easily cause injury to you as the energy gets released. From personal experience and one of my guys slicing open his hand breaking torque on his brake caliper mounting bolt the other day. you don't want to have 200 foot pounds of uncontrolled potential. you don't.
can you start taking up slop with the handle of the breaker alone, starting at about 9 or 10 oclock, and slip your cheater over the handle after you get it to about 4? If you could essentially- PRELOAD -the gearslop before eating into any of your usable heavy swing radius, you would maybe get over this hump. I'm guessing you run out of swing when you get the cheater to the fence...where did you start the swing from? can you rewind it any more, thus gaining more of a revolution?
anything you do that might break under the torque you want to throw at it can very easily cause injury to you as the energy gets released. From personal experience and one of my guys slicing open his hand breaking torque on his brake caliper mounting bolt the other day. you don't want to have 200 foot pounds of uncontrolled potential. you don't.
Roscoes post #28 would work if you could tow it down the street a bit. it really won't take alot. the trick to doing this is to put the clutch back in RIGHT AWAY before the nut spins off and lets the wrench kill your oilpan...for that matter, if you rolled it past the fence, you might have the extra swing you're missing now, then you just have to get someone to help you push it backup the driveway.(<why it isn't a parkway, I'll never know)