Cost of Ownership for High Mileage 100 Series? (1 Viewer)

[Wannabe77]

Greetings all!

Trying to leave no stone unturned, how does the cost of ownership of a high mileage 100 series compare to a mid-sized reasonably reliable SUV (think 4Runner)?

Thanks for any/all input!

 

[jerryb]

I think (hard) parts are relatively cheap. I always keep a thousand or more extra for parts on a new to me vehicle. I've used it all and then some, but I spend more when I like the car/truck.
I worry about the electric part of brake system and ECU's, not much else. The thing can still strand you just like any other 10/15 year old truck.

 

[lhommec13]

Greetings all!

Trying to leave no stone unturned, how does the cost of ownership of a high mileage 100 series compare to a mid-sized reasonably reliable SUV (think 4Runner)?

Thanks for any/all input!

Just out of curiosity, but what do you consider to be "high mileage"? I tell my employees I drive a 2002 truck with over 170k on the odometer and they are astonished by that. Then one of them tells me he drives a 2002 Saturn with "only 120k" and I have to force myself not to say something stupid. Before I came aboard MUD, I thought 150k was high mileage for any vehicle. Now I know better

 

[Dwight S]

I drive a 19 year old truck with 270K and would get in it tomorrow for a road trip across the country.

You have to have confidence in the vehicle and also take advantage of the fact you have no car payment and save some money to maintain it. As is well documented here on MUD and elsewhere on the web, a Land Cruiser will serve you well if you serve it well.

 

[mattafact]

Plan on budgeting for all fluids, filters, belts, hoses, timing belt with water pump and tensioner, radiator, heater Ts, starter and intake gaskets, alternator brush, cv repack, brake pads, and grease for the wheel bearings.

That should get you a decent baseline without getting too deep. Bushings and joints for all the suspension and steering pieces depending on age and prior maintenance.

For me it's finding the time. Last year we bought a 98 LX with 39 pages of dealer records from the same dealer. A couple weeks and some new fluids later we headed out for a road trip from CA to Colorado with lots of wheeling mixed in. I would do it again tomorrow.

 

[aging fleet]

All things being equal, you'll definitely burn more fuel in the 100. Outside of that, it's totally going to depend.

If you buy a 100 that is due for expensive maintenance items (90k service, brakes, tires, etc.), you'll be left with the impression that it's an expensive car to own. If you buy something that is current on maintenance, well, it won't be taking your lunch money as frequently.

Will the mid-size SUV have high mileage also? What are you defining as high mileage? Some more detail would be helpful.

 

[SWUtah]

I got mine with around 100,000 miles on baseline everything fluid filter's wheel bearing repack replace the Lexes automatic height control suspension with an old man emu 2 inch lift and rock sliders CV boot went bad replaced that and also had Lexus put on a steering rack total expenses about 5 to 6 grand

 

[abuck99]

As a DD non modded 100 with out AHC- can be quite reliable upwards of 200-250k miles with out much input beyond fluids and consumables(brakes-belts-hoses etc).

The OES parts that came on the 100 from the factory had very good service life deigned into them(for the most part). The build quality doesn't compare to platforms. Which is why these trucks have the reputation they do. But start modding-lifting etc that changes things. So it depends on how you're going to use it.

I'd rather have a 150-175k 100series over a 100k Tahoe of the same year.

Learn how to work on your 100 and the cost of service gets very reasonable.

 

[re_guderian]

Greetings all!

Trying to leave no stone unturned, how does the cost of ownership of a high mileage 100 series compare to a mid-sized reasonably reliable SUV (think 4Runner)?

Thanks for any/all input!

"stuff" wears out, and lc "stuff" is generally a bit more pricey. But still overall, I think high mileage cruisers are a bargain for what you'll get. But 200,000-300,000 miles is gonna incur a few grand in parts. Tb, eater pump, starter, steering rack, shocks/springs if not done already, radiator, alternator. I think most SUV's of that mileage are also gonna need that stuff, so the only real difference is the incremental cost of lc parts v others...

Oh, and I have a 2000 w 249,7xx miles, and a 2004 with 214K. Plan on keeping them both for many more years.

 

[94SRUNNER]

Should I buy an 80, costs of ownership?

This is a great thread to read even though it revolves around the 80 Series.

 

[sean2202]

Seeing I have had 4runner and 100 and both were purchased with 150k they are both great trucks however I have seen a lot of common issues with age and slightly more failures on the 4runner.

I guess it depends on what gen 4runner as well. The 4th gen v8 drive train is very similar to the 100. The 3rd gen 4runner has frame rust issues, strawberry milkshake, and lower front ball joint problems. 100 by comparison has much thicker frame but has the abs brake problem.

The ride and comfort of the 100 is top notch
Much better than my 4runner.

 

[nissanh]

I'd say both 3rd gen 4runner and cruiser are reliable trucks. Cruiser gets 13 MPG on highway and runner gives about 17 MPG on highway.
Tires, T-belt oil seals all costs the same.
Cruiser is the best for ride comfort. Runner is not even close.
Cruiser and 01+ runner have the most expensive brake system.
OEM used parts are easy to find for the runner.
Both can have the pink milkshake (Coolant gets mixed up with trans fluid due to a failure in the trans oil cooler inside the radiator) Remady: Replace the radiator every 10 years with a name brand such as DENSO.

 

[Northbound]

As a DD non modded 100 with out AHC- can be quite reliable upwards of 200-250k miles with out much input beyond fluids and consumables(brakes-belts-hoses etc).

The OES parts that came on the 100 from the factory had very good service life deigned into them(for the most part). The build quality doesn't compare to platforms. Which is why these trucks have the reputation they do. But start modding-lifting etc that changes things. So it depends on how you're going to use it.

I'd rather have a 150-175k 100series over a 100k Tahoe of the same year.

Learn how to work on your 100 and the cost of service gets very reasonable.

Christ I've had a 150k tahoe and god damn we put money into it. Had a 150k Discovery II put zero money into it beyond maintenance. I've had 150k 7 series BMW and just proactive maintenance. That tahoe goodness a money suck.

Hell I've got 3 cruisers I DD the youngest is a 05 100 with 85k but I expect it to go to 400k with proactive maintenance and the occasional "big" outlay for timing belt, water pump, etc.

My father has a 4R with 300k and the thing doesn't skip a beat and looks fxxxing new. But damn that thing is the most uncomfortable vehicle I've ever driven in. It's not made for a dude that's 6'3" and wears a 54 suit coat - zero shoulder room - in fact the Rover has too narrow for me.

Long way to say the 100 should run a long time if you keep up on it and it's real comfortable.

 

[sean2202]

@nissanh you are making me nervous, I was unaware that the 100 had the strawberry milkshake issue. I have not seen any posts on it and even did a search a while back. Maybe I missed it.

Some 3.4 engines did have head gasket issues.

 

[mkivtdi]

I think cost of ownership also depends on the owner, and whether you're one of those "while i'm in there anyway, might as well replace XYZ..."

I just bought a 1 owner LX470 with 224K miles in November. I have LEXUS dealer records from mile 1,000 through 223,000 at regular intervals.

On the COLDEST day of this winter so far in New England (-11*F), the plastic top of radiator developed a hairline crack-- that was $170ish for a new Denso unit.

And while replacing the radiator, I decided to use my airgun to blow out the AC condenser. I started to blow out some of the fins in the middle that had become brittle and soft with age. So while I had it all apart anyway, I ordered a new Denso A/C condenser. That was another $144.

And while I was in there.... might as well get a new Thermostat (per the last timing belt, the current thermostat was definitely still good with only 50k miles on it), but I changed it anyway. That was $20 bucks. And then a new upper and lower radiator hose to change out the originals, another $50. And the T's in the back, another $40 bucks.

And for peace of mind, the fuel filter. Another $30 bucks.

So I think cost of ownership at this mileage totally depends on the type of owner you plan to be as much as anything else. And, obviously, how much of the work you can do yourself.

 

[SWUtah]

@nissanh you are making me nervous, I was unaware that the 100 had the strawberry milkshake issue. I have not seen any posts on it and even did a search a while back. Maybe I missed it.

Some 3.4 engines did have head gasket issues.

Not a common issue. I've never heard of it on a 100 series and I've been on this site since 2000

 

[apicalendo]

I think cost of ownership also depends on the owner, and whether you're one of those "while i'm in there anyway, might as well replace XYZ..."

I just bought a 1 owner LX470 with 224K miles in November. I have LEXUS dealer records from mile 1,000 through 223,000 at regular intervals.

On the COLDEST day of this winter so far in New England (-11*F), the plastic top of radiator developed a hairline crack-- that was $170ish for a new Denso unit.

And while replacing the radiator, I decided to use my airgun to blow out the AC condenser. I started to blow out some of the fins in the middle that had become brittle and soft with age. So while I had it all apart anyway, I ordered a new Denso A/C condenser. That was another $144.

And while I was in there.... might as well get a new Thermostat (per the last timing belt, the current thermostat was definitely still good with only 50k miles on it), but I changed it anyway. That was $20 bucks. And then a new upper and lower radiator hose to change out the originals, another $50. And the T's in the back, another $40 bucks.

And for peace of mind, the fuel filter. Another $30 bucks.

So I think cost of ownership at this mileage totally depends on the type of owner you plan to be as much as anything else. And, obviously, how much of the work you can do yourself.

Thanks for sharing the above. Where did you buy these parts? I’m on partsgeek and the radiator is $237, the AC compressor is $451.....stopped at that. Know it is 19months after your post, but those are huge increases. Would like to know where to get these the cheapest. Thanks!!

 

[ITcookY]

Thanks for sharing the above. Where did you buy these parts? I’m on partsgeek and the radiator is $237, the AC compressor is $451.....stopped at that. Know it is 19months after your post, but those are huge increases. Would like to know where to get these the cheapest. Thanks!!

DENSO-Radiator -- (2213152) = $159.89
DENSO-AC Condenser--(4770603) with rear AC = $141.89
DENSO-AC Condenser--(4770730) w/o rear AC = $75.79

mkivtdi didn't mention a AC compressor but for illustration purposes...

DENSO AC Compressor -- (4711220) = $264.79


These parts are for my 2000 100 series and this does not include shipping. It also does not include the additional 10% we get occasionally from ROCK AUTO (dot com) here on IH8MUD

Be sure and check offers from our supporting vendors.


Good Luck and start saving with the Rock!

<Xx-<

 

[jsigone]

from what I gathered and personal experience at 201k. The most expensive things to fix on high mile rigs would be

Brake Booster/Master Cylinder kits $500 reman, OEM new $1100-2500

AHC failure cost me $1200 in suspension parts

T-belt every 90k

Exploding diffs on trails rocking back n forth (so I heard)

____

I've done the first two on my rig, Tbelt will be done in the next 15k miles.

I had my rig for a yr and Overall I spent far more in GAS on my rig then broken parts on my rigs.

 

[EZDog]

I recently sold my 08 V8 4runner with a blown up motor and 108k and bought a nice 06 LC with 177k that runs great.
Similar Drivetrains but worlds apart in character.

I wanted to love the 4runner while it ran and it seemed to run well when it ran too but the thing was so uncomfortable it was insane for me?
There is just no room in there to stretch out or turn side to side and my ass fell asleep within 25 miles due to the odd seating position too.
I did drive a few 4runner with manual seats and they had more space and better adjustment range for them oddly but still.

So I am not sure how you put a price on comfort but to me the penalty in gas mileage is more than offset by ride quality and space inside the truck!

I think longevity of the 4runner is outstanding(except for my copy) like most Toyota Trucks and am not sure why there would be much price difference for service between them really aside from some random insanely priced items and I have had several Tundras too that have been bulletproof to say the least.
If you read the 4runner forums there are plenty of examples of high mileage units just like on here but not too many over 250k either that I recall, ultimately they are smaller tanks but not quite as beastly maybe as the 100 series in the end and priced when new accordingly too.

So when I discovered my LC the mileage didn't concern me too much compared to every domestic truck that I have owned each of which started getting expensive around 100k or so.