Coppernicus the FJ60 Survivor

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sadovnik

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 7, 2021
Threads
12
Messages
539
Location
Denver, CO. USA
No doubt we tend to get pickier as we get older. I suppose the same holds for buying cars — the more you've owned, the more particular you become.
I'd been hunting for an FJ60 or HJ61 for the better part of a year. I bid on a few promising rigs on BaT, but nothing panned out. I was somewhat willing to compromise on mechanicals and mileage. Rust, however, was non-negotiable. It had to be essentially rust-free, which is a tall order on a 40-year-old Land Cruiser.

After an expensive lesson buying an East Coast rig with hidden rust, I made a rule: any car I buy MUST have spent its life somewhere mild and dry. That meant the Southwest or parts of the West Coast. No more East Coast cars for this guy- EVER. Texas was also excluded from the search area for many other reasons.

I also wanted something unmolested — another tall order on any Land Cruiser, but especially older trucks like the 40 and 60 Series. They are so darn simple and accessible that everyone with a socket set thinks they're a mechanic. The result is usually a truck that's been "improved" in all the wrong ways.

So basically my requirements were:
  • 1985-1987 FJ60
  • Very little or no rust.
  • Sub 200k miles. OK if higher with well-documented maintenance.
  • Unmolested mechanicals, or as close as possible.
  • Reasonably priced 🤣
If you’ve been looking for a nice 60 recently, you’d know I was essentially looking for a unicorn. And of course, I wanted all that AND I did not want to pay a fortune for it. Seems like people are asking way too much money for rusted out 60s nowadays.

Enter Coppernicus

…Then out of the blue @thegreatgazoo posted about checking out this rig which was semi-local to me… So naturally I sent him a message asking him to get me in touch with the seller if he decided to pass. And he did! He passed on it and gave my number to the seller! A couple of weeks later I got a text message from the seller. I called him and arranged to go see it the very next day. Took time off work (priorities, right?) and closed the deal on the spot.

The original owner bought this truck from Tom Lyons Toyota here in Colorado back in '86. He later relocated to Idaho and brought the truck along, but it saw minimal use over the years as he commuted by bus while working at Westinghouse. Then when he moved back to Colorado, instead of leaving the FJ60 behind or selling it, he did the sensible thing and towed it back (smart man!).

The good:
  • Original owner since 1986 !
  • 99,600 miles
  • Original EVERYTHING, including shocks and springs
  • Body is 99% rust free
The Bad:
  • Hasn’t been on the road since 2011 and so it has at least 15 years of deferred maintenance that needs to be addressed (leaks galore)
  • Requires some body work, but no rust repair - looks great from 20 feet away 🤣
  • Shade-tree mechanic removed the original carb and replaced it with a Webber knock-off. As expected, it runs like :poop:
  • Same mechanic did a half-assed desmog
  • Frame has surface rust, but nothing concerning. I may just have it dry-ice blasted.
Yes, it’s slightly faded and a bit dinged up but has a rust-free body. The front end could be better as the fenders have a minor accident from the PO’s daughter hitting some garage shelves. As to the upholstery and plastic on the inside, I would rate it a solid 8 out of 10. The seat foam still feels good and even the dash only has one or two small defects, but no cracks.

Overall, I feel I did alright with this buy. I am so excited about this truck! Build thread to follow….

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Nice buy! Curious why you eliminated TX rigs from your search.
 
Nice buy! Curious why you eliminated TX rigs from your search.
That also caught my attention… the two nicest 60’s I’ve ever seen or am likely to see, have come from Texas.
 
That also caught my attention… the two nicest 60’s I’ve ever seen or am likely to see, have come from Texas.
Let's just say I've had REALLY bad luck buying cars from Texas. I would 100% buy from a Texas Mud member though.
 
Let's just say I've had REALLY bad luck buying cars from Texas. I would 100% buy from a Texas Mud member though.
I was born in Northern California but have been here long enough to defend it. Well, most of it anyway…
 
First order of business is to get the engine back to stock form, i.e. put all the components back to where they were when it was built, except desmoged. Then once it's up and running nicely, it will need new suspension since the original springs are completely flat (maybe even inverted) and the 40-year-old shocks are just there as placeholders. I have decided to go with the Terrain Tamer springs. Once the new suspension is in place, I'll replace the chrome wagon wheels with some 16" FJ Co. Expedition wheels and 255/85 (33") tires. I just love how they look on my 40 and think they look so cool on the 60 too.

So far, this is my Bill of Materials for the engine refresh:

OEM Freshly rebuilt carburetor from @mattressking
OEM Carburetor insulator plate (scored a brand new one on FB Marketplace for $95 shipped)
OEM Choke cable from @bkonrath
Air cleaner assembly from @bkonrath
Carburetor linkage parts, including the torque rod bracket that goes on the firewall from @bkonrath
OEM Distributor from @wngrog (replaced cap, rotor, and O-rings with new OEM parts)
OEM coil/ignitor from @wngrog
HAC valve from @mattressking
VCV valve from @mattressking
Fuel line going into the carb (original was cut 8" short of the carb, ugh!) from @cruiserland
Desmog kit from JimC (TLC Performance)
EGR block off plate from BTB Products
4 Studs between the intake manifold and carburetor part# 90116-08042

And to address the many oil leaks:
New valve cover gasket
New side cover gasket
New timing gear cover gasket
New fuel pump spacer

So far only the distributor and coil have been installed and it's already made a difference. The engine idles better and as an added bonus, the A/C and tachometer now work!

At some point I will send the distributor off to get recurved by JimC, but it's not a high priority right now.
 
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Last weekend was very productive. Drained the fuel tank and replaced the fuel filter. Is gasoline supposed to be brown and murky? :confused:
This week I'll replace the non-op fuel level sender. I'm hoping it's not too nasty inside the tank 🤞.

Also addressed the leaking fuel pump. The pump itself looks to have been replaced "recently." My best guess is that when the dealer replaced the fuel tank under a recall, they also replaced the pump. Unfortunately, they did a poor job of sealing it. A new spacer fixed the leak though.

Next order of business was to replace the side cover's cork gasket which was also leaking. Once that was done, a new gasket went on the valve cover. Valve train looks pristine!

Three leaks addressed. How many left to go is anyone's guess.

Watch this space!
 
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If you have the tank out take it and have it cleaned. Most radiator shops do it.
I just drained it, but didn't take it out. I will look inside this week when I replace the fuel level sender. If it looks nasty I will certainly follow your advice and send it out for cleaning. @ColoradoCarlisle just posted on the local Rising Sun forum about a shop that cleans tanks. Apparently it's a dying art and most of the shops that used to do it, don't any more because of governmental regulations or some other bureaucratic BS.
 
First order of business is to get the engine back to stock form, i.e. put all the components back to where they were when it was built, except desmoged. Then once it's up and running nicely, it will need new suspension since the original springs are completely flat (maybe even inverted) and the 40-year-old shocks are just there as placeholders. I have decided to go with the Terrain Tamer springs. Once the new suspension is in place, I'll replace the chrome wagon wheels with some 16" FJ Co. Expedition wheels and 255/85 (33") tires. I just love how they look on my 40 and think they look so cool on the 60 too.

So far, this is my Bill of Materials for the engine refresh:

OEM Freshly rebuilt carburetor from @mattressking
OEM Carburetor insulator plate (scored a brand new one on FB Marketplace for $95 shipped)
OEM Choke cable from @bkonrath
Air cleaner assembly from @bkonrath
Carburetor linkage parts, including the torque rod bracket that goes on the firewall from @bkonrath
OEM Distributor from @wngrog (replaced cap, rotor, and O-rings with new OEM parts)
OEM coil/ignitor from @wngrog
HAC valve from @mattressking
VCV valve from @mattressking
Fuel line going into the carb (original was cut 8" short of the carb, ugh!) from @cruiserland
Desmog kit from JimC (TLC Performance)
EGR block off plate from BTB Products
4 Studs between the intake manifold and carburetor part# 90116-08042

And to address the many oil leaks:
New valve cover gasket
New side cover gasket
New timing gear cover gasket
New fuel pump spacer

So far only the distributor and coil have been installed and it's already made a difference. The engine idles better and as an added bonus, the A/C and tachometer now work!

At some point I will send the distributor off to get recurved by JimC, but it's not a high priority right now.
Fellow Coloradan question - any plans for altitude compensation beyond the HAC? My HAC is gone and my non-US OEM carb's fewer ports make it seem like re-installing HAC doesn't make sense. I'm pondering a re-jet before installing the carb, curious to hear what you're thinking.
 
I haven’t decided about the HAC yet. My understanding is that it only has two “settings”- below and above 4000 feet. I live at 6000ft and the lowest I ever see myself going would be to 5200ft.

If I’m wrong about the 4000ft threshold, I would certainly reconsider. Do you think you’ll go below 4000ft? If so, then yes, you should add it.

As to the jets on my carb, the guy that rebuilt it for me used high altitude jets, same as he did on my FJ40’s carb and they both run great.
 
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