Coolant Hose Suggestion & Whats This Thing?

[togles]

I just got this on Friday so as I am working on fixing my P0401 EGR issue this coolant hose is kinked and seems like someone did s rear heat delete I guess? Anyways, thinking of replacing the hose so its new and just putting a 90 degree elbow on the drivers side maybe so it will look better and not be kinked? I welcome suggestions

Also - I took the opportunity to wrap the harness so it wouldnt get damaged any further from the EGR. Before and after below.

Another thing I found was this cable looking thing that is just hanging out under the throttle body, comes out of the firewall to nothing? Anyone know what this is for?

 

[petegangies]

I'd replace the hose with a new one. You'll be able to measure the internal diameter and find aftermarket heater hose to suit. It wont kink if the hose is long enough. It will naturally sweep up, and then down to the other side without kinking with the extra length.

 

[CrabCake]

I was trying to figure out what looked strange...then you had the pic of the cable! The P.O. must have deleted the heater control valve...that's what would be in the middle of that hose and what the cable connects to. The heater controls are made of plastic and fail over time...I'm going to hope that this was a trail fix completed in poor fashion (kinked hose!) and never replaced properly.

And adding: Looks like the rear heat is still intact (from the top at least)...probably the only reason that you are not getting roasted in there with the heater is the kink in the hose.

 

[jonheld]

You're missing the heater valve that mounts to the firewall behind the harness. That "cable looking thing" is the control cable that opens and closes the valve.

All of those knucklehead installed hoses should be replaced. @LandCruiserPhil sells the proper hoses for the rear heater bypass.

LCP - Rear Heater Delete Hose

Molded Rear Heater Delete Hose The upgraded installation with a perfectly molded hose.

sites.google.com

 

[Kernal]

^^^This^^^

Rip out the hack job sheit and start over with the correct parts/hoses (except the rear heater hoses if you delete circuit)
While you're in there inspect the engine harness (wires) close to the EGR valve, it's an area known to get damaged if the harness
gets too close to the hot EGR pipe, then rewrap with something like TESA tape followed by a heat protective sleeve or wrap.

Here's another link with photos of how a stock engine should look with some part numbers:

Thread '1996 FZJ80 Coolant & Heater Hose Part Numbers & Pictures'

Jun 21, 2018

This is subject to change, but here's what I've come up with so far(updated 7/6/2018):

FZJ80 Heater Hose Part Numbers and Locations

• PNWFJ80
• Jul 6, 2018
• fzj80 heater hose part number phh

FZJ80 Heater hose part numbers and locations with pictures

FZJ80 Heater Hose Part Numbers and Locations

• PNWFJ80
• Jul 6, 2018
• fzj80 heater hose part number phh

FZJ80 Heater hose part numbers and locations with pictures

FZJ80 Heater Hose Part Numbers and Locations

• PNWFJ80
• Jul 6, 2018
• fzj80 heater hose part number phh

FZJ80 Heater hose part numbers and locations with pictures

FZJ80 Heater Hose Part Numbers and Locations

• PNWFJ80
• Jul 6, 2018
• fzj80 heater hose part number phh

FZJ80 Heater hose part numbers and locations with pictures

FZJ80 Heater Hose Part Numbers and Locations

• PNWFJ80
• Jul 6, 2018
• fzj80 heater hose part number phh

FZJ80 Heater hose part numbers and locations with pictures

Finished! (except for the rear seat...

• PNWFJ80
• 1996 fzj80 part numbers
• Replies: 47
• Forum: 80-Series Tech

• 

 

[togles]

You're missing the heater valve that mounts to the firewall behind the harness. That "cable looking thing" is the control cable that opens and closes the valve.

View attachment 4142469

All of those knucklehead installed hoses should be replaced. @LandCruiserPhil sells the proper hoses for the rear heater bypass.

LCP - Rear Heater Delete Hose

Molded Rear Heater Delete Hose The upgraded installation with a perfectly molded hose.

sites.google.com

You're missing the heater valve that mounts to the firewall behind the harness. That "cable looking thing" is the control cable that opens and closes the valve.

View attachment 4142469

All of those knucklehead installed hoses should be replaced. @LandCruiserPhil sells the proper hoses for the rear heater bypass.

LCP - Rear Heater Delete Hose

Molded Rear Heater Delete Hose The upgraded installation with a perfectly molded hose.

sites.google.com

Thanks, so thats what i need to do i think, buy a heater control valve and the rear heater delete hose kit. Upon further looking at ny setup there is no heat capability in the vehicle right now. Its all effectively bypassed.

 

[CrabCake]

I just hope this doesn't mean that there's a leaky heater core hiding in the dash and was just a quick repair on a leaky external control valve. I guess if the truck was from and still lives in a warm climate, that you could get by without the heat. The sardine can key style clamps are original to the truck, so definitely time to replace those hoses as you plan to do...

 

[Kernal]

Yeah, it looks like the PO bypassed both heater cores, hopefully he just did a quick fix when the old heat control valve burst.

 

[togles]

I just hope this doesn't mean that there's a leaky heater core hiding in the dash and was just a quick repair on a leaky external control valve. I guess if the truck was from and still lives in a warm climate, that you could get by without the heat. The sardine can key style clamps are original to the truck, so definitely time to replace those hoses as you plan to do...

How can i test if i have a leaky heater core before i go and connect coolant lines to it?

 

[BTLSHP]

How can i test if i have a leaky heater core before i go and connect coolant lines to it?

Fill them with water at the firewall. This is the high point.

 

[CrabCake]

Fill them with water at the firewall. This is the high point.

Ideally if you have a way to put some pressure on there too, that would be great. An air compressor or maybe even one of those vacuum/pressure testers and some creative plumbing to block off...just keep it under 15 psi and try to get it to hold for a minute or so...

https://www.amazon.com/Multi-Functional-Reservoirs-Automotive-Extraction-23PC-Red/dp/B0G37KXLFF/?tag=ihco-20

 

[Kernal]

Can you find the previous owner and ask what happened ie: was it just a burst heat control valve and a quick bypass versus a leaking heater core??

IME when a heater core leaks it can leave behind some evidence ie: carpet stains on the right side of the transmission tunnel and the passenger footwell (LHD) under the dash.

 

[togles]

i installed my heater valve just now. Nothing plumbed to it just trying to make it operate. Does this look like i connected and secured the cable correctly? I hooked it up the only way it made sense to me

 

[BTLSHP]

Search around - I forget now but there is a very specific position you want the cable in when it is close so you are not pushing warm water to the heater core during A/C season. Sorry, I can't recall but on the fully Cold position inside you want to ensure the valve is absolutely closed. This took me a bit of time.

 

[Kernal]

Close the HVAC controls temp slider lever inside the cabin (key to ON or engine running) to full cold then remove the eyelet from the heat control valve lever
and see if the lever can be closed more ie: is it partially open when it should be fully closed. You can attempt to adjust the length of the cable with the small clip that surrounds the cable.

If you get tired of trying to get the cable adjusted perfectly then in the warmer months when you don't need cabin heat just pull the eyelet off the heat control lever until the next winter when you need cabin heat again. The AC will work with that lever not connected to the cable as long as the lever on the heat control valve in the full closed position (IME it will stay closed by itself).

 

[togles]

Search around - I forget now but there is a very specific position you want the cable in when it is close so you are not pushing warm water to the heater core during A/C season. Sorry, I can't recall but on the fully Cold position inside you want to ensure the valve is absolutely closed. This took me a bit of time.

Close the HVAC controls temp slider lever inside the cabin (key to ON or engine running) to full cold then remove the eyelet from the heat control valve lever
and see if the lever can be closed more ie: is it partially open when it should be fully closed. You can attempt to adjust the length of the cable with the small clip that surrounds the cable.

If you get tired of trying to get the cable adjusted perfectly then in the warmer months when you don't need cabin heat just pull the eyelet off the heat control lever until the next winter when you need cabin heat again. The AC will work with that lever not connected to the Temp slider as long as the lever on the heat control valve in the full closed position (IME it will stay closed by itself).

Right on! Thanks!