Similar to others, but here's a few 'secrets' that you asked for:
1) Lock CDL for safety so vehicle won't roll with tail in air. Also chalk front wheels.
2) Jack rear via floor jack under pumpkin. Get it as high as you can, the axle needs to droop a long way. Two jack stands are all that are needed under the frame rails. Tires under the frame for safety once removed.
3) Remove rear wheels.
4) Disconnect rear swaybar. You need to do this because each side of the axel needs to drop separately.
5) The hydraulic brake line drops onto the axle in the center. There is a bracket holing the hard tubing onto the frame right above the pumpkin. Remove the 12mm bolt holding this to the frame to buy you a few more inches of flex otherwise you're overstress the rubber line.
6) Remove the axle vent line just to the DS of the pumpkin.
7) Put your floor jack under shock mount on one side of the axel. Apply pressure but don't lift axel.
8) Disconnect lower shock mount. It will slide 90% off then get suck because of the angle. Use a cheater bar to help it the rest of the way, but don't dent the tube. There is a bushing in the lower mount that will flex to allow this.
9) With the shock disconnected, lower the floor jack to allow the axle to droop. You may need to apply some body weight to it to help it out. Spring will drop right out.
10) To install new spring, just make sure lower mount is indexed to stub on coil.
11) Raise that end of the axle back up until it aligns with the shock an tap it back on. I applied a little white lithium spray to help and as a corrosion inhibitor.
12) Rinse-wash-repeat steps 7-11 for the other side.
13) Using your floor jack, maneuver the axle as required to get the swaybar to line up on one side then the other.
14) Reconnect brake line bracket and axel vent.
15) Remount wheels, torque lugs. Drive a bit then re-torque the lugs for safety.
16) Done.
