City Racer Brake Booster

[ToyotaMatt]

Its a Necessary handy Tool........

 

[MScruiser]

I have one on my ‘78. Had a very tough time adjusting rod clearance but my mechanic said it is a two person job. That said I have awesome brakes now and would buy his booster again-works fantastic!!

I’ve been having a hell of a time adjusting the rod clearance too. I need one of those tools!

Is there any way to tell if my rod is too long or too short without the SST? I’m wondering if I can do it by trial and error.

(Sounds kinda funny).

 

[tls3601]

Maybe by trial and error, but after multiple tries I gave up! Took it to my mechanic and he did it with like one hour of labor, worth every cent in my book! I had crazy brake drag.

 

[jrcfj40]

My poor man’s gauge...

 

[BeerM3]

My poor man’s gauge...View attachment 1674462

Damn. That's ingenious. I just dropped $25 on this today even though by my caliper measurements I "think" I'm good. However after hours of failed attempts to get it right I figure $25 is cheap insurance. I suspect yours works just as well in the right hands. Dowel/nail need to be just as long as the overall stacked blocks though, right? Or maybe they are and it's just misleading perspective.

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Brake-Booster-Adjustment-Tool/dp/B079QGXY55?tag=ihco-20

 

[jrcfj40]

Thanks! I used a dowel jig I already owned to quickly whip up the gauge with some scrap wood. The jig helped insure the dowel was straight and fairly tight.

My photography skills are not that great. The overall length of the center dowel/nail are equal to the stacked blocks.

Jeff

 

[S4Cruiser]

I found one online through a auction house type thing , from a dealership in Oregon that had closed its doors

My part # is 09737-00013-01 , Its made in the USA but no maker marks or stamps ? , i dont have the chrome / stainless Rods

like @Racer65 's Japan one does , but looks to be the same general tool , just a Simple USA spec. version

Nevertheless it's a very high quality factory SST

View attachment 1660287

Matt - could you provide the tool dimensions? There are many of these types of gauges available pre-owned but not the exact Toyota SST.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Ok , so here we go

- Overall OD x OD / 76mm wide x 125 mm long

- bar stock center 16mm x 16mm x 76mm

- the 3 dowel pins are 6mm dia. rod

- note : the center adjust pin has a bull nose on master cylinder contact face end & a slightly larger 10mm booster contact side face , the 2 sides are only 9mm in diameter end contact faces or " heads "

- the 3 adjust screws 2 Phillips & 1 wing nut style are 4mm pitch

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Matt - could you provide the tool dimensions? There are many of these types of gauges available pre-owned but not the exact Toyota SST.

if i missed one u still need let me know

 

[MScruiser]

Anyone care to explain how the tool works to ensure proper shaft length?

Is the point to have the end of the shaft just kissing the master cylinder?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Anyone care to explain how the tool works to ensure proper shaft length?

Is the point to have the end of the shaft just kissing the master cylinder?

I Posted The FSM photo's on page 2 of this thread , It does explain and have diagrams very well on procedures / use steps

 

[S4Cruiser]

if i missed one u still need let me know

Awesome - thanks!!!

 

[MScruiser]

I Posted The FSM photo's on page 2 of this thread , It does explain and have diagrams very well on procedures / use steps

Welp, I know what I’m doing tomorrow! Thanks, @RAGINGMATT !

 

[BeerM3]

So in my build thread I mentioned that the small flange where the studs are mounted to the booster look like they'd add another approx. 1mm to the push rod depth. After mounting it that doesn't appear to be the case. There's no visible gap between the MC and the booster body. The little bit of countersink on the MC holes must have been enough to allow them to butt flush.

I took it back off and checked with the Corvette booster gauge referenced in post #45 here. It seems to fit perfectly for those wanting to save a few bucks or not make a DIY version. I had to turn the rod back a few turns as it was sticking out approx. 1mm (go figure) too far.

 

[Dizzy]

Right, it's probably the booster push rod adjustment. I'd go without the gasket. Given the clearance spec is 0.1 - 0.5 mm, that gasket can throw you off spec. Besides, the gasket serves no purpose. If the MC leaks in the distant future, it's better for brake fluid to drip out than to be trapped by the gasket and then sucked into the booster.

After installing the Racer65 booster today, I got to thinking about the original design. The gasket between the master cylinder and the booster might help keep rain out? The 40 and 45 hood has those vents which make the engine bay kinda vulnerable. Also, there is a dimple on the OEM booster at the bottom which could let liquid out, but then I don't know why mine drank so much DOT 3 from the master cylinder? Maybe the master cylinder had it rubber seal with the corresponding grooves pointed up?

My Nissan is leaking out of the reservoir connection to the master cylinder. It is only 2-years old, but a non-OEM part. I took it to the mechanic because I work at a snail's pace, it is not easy to get under this 2wd truck, and it is my daily driver. He said that when it is leaking out of the back of the back of the master cylinder that they can use a vacuum to clear out the booster. Specifically what effect does the hydraulic fluid have on the booster?

 

[GRiP]

for those even more poverty stricken than jrcfj40 you can use 3 100mm to 125mm nails off equal length and a solid piece off cardboard it will work the same as a expensive tool

 

[Jetlander]

I installed @Racer65 's 4wheel Drum Brakes on A NON USA 1/79 FJ43 , I was replacing a bad booster leaking fluid from a bad master leaking fluid , His Booster is a Quality part , With factory Fit & Finish , I also purchased and installed His foil decal

Not for bling factor so much ............well not really

, i stamped the original OEM part# in the new foil decal on it now it reflects a correct by the book replacement

also oreded the paper / fiber OEM toyota gasket that goes between the master & the new city Racer booster


View attachment 1649767

I honestly didn’t realize there was supposed to be a gasket between the booster and master. Just recently installed both back in my resto. When I pulled the old booster and master out there definitely wasn’t any signs of a gasket, which could have been part of the issue. I guess I need to pull it back out and make a run to the stealership.

 

[Jetlander]

Right, it's probably the booster push rod adjustment. I'd go without the gasket. Given the clearance spec is 0.1 - 0.5 mm, that gasket can throw you off spec. Besides, the gasket serves no purpose. If the MC leaks in the distant future, it's better for brake fluid to drip out than to be trapped by the gasket and then sucked into the booster.

Or this... Which is the consensus?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Or this... Which is the consensus?

must have gasket to begin with pre-adjust and during adjust

it really makes a difference with @Racer65 , quality ADVICS Products he offers !

do it per the FSM ......or you will do it twice

 

[GRiP]

Made my own paper gasket and measuring tool the small difference in measuring with and without the gasket does make a difference with the booster push rod adjustment, Bled brakes and changed fluid from dot 4 to dot 3, am sure that the dot 4 caused the seals in master cylinder to fail and dump the brake fluid into the booster. I now have the best brakes ive ever had. Master cylinder i got was a protex i will rebuild the old aisin master cylinder i have and keep as a spare and just wait for the booster to fail after it was full off brake fluid and get that rebuilt.