City Racer Brake Booster

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ToyotaMatt said:
please elaborate , I had to install and remove then re-install about 5 times before i got it right ? the pin to master-set contact clearance
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You need to use SST. It's quite expensive, but at a professional mechanic's labor rate, it'll pay for itself after 1 job.

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@RAGINGMATT I went thru the same thing and still had very bad brake drag, finally let my mechanic do it. Would really like to know what his magic was, he only said it is really hard to do without two people
 
FWIW my brakes are amazing now. I think my mechanic charged like $85. Money well spent
 
Racer65 said:
You need to use SST. It's quite expensive, but at a professional mechanic's labor rate, it'll pay for itself after 1 job.

View attachment 1652942
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Interesting. My SST looks quite different. More compact, with a barrel head where it meets the booster pushrod. I guess their mfgr changed some time in the last 28 years since I bought mine.
 
Just a quick question for y'all...does CityRacer need our old boosters for rebuild??? I guess a core?

Cheers!
 
Racer65 said:
You need to use SST. It's quite expensive, but at a professional mechanic's labor rate, it'll pay for itself after 1 job.

View attachment 1652942
Click to expand...


I found one online through a auction house type thing , from a dealership in Oregon that had closed its doors

My part # is 09737-00013-01 , Its made in the USA but no maker marks or stamps ? , i dont have the chrome / stainless Rods

like @Racer65 's Japan one does , but looks to be the same general tool , just a Simple USA spec. version

Nevertheless it's a very high quality factory SST

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tls3601 said:
@RAGINGMATT I went thru the same thing and still had very bad brake drag, finally let my mechanic do it. Would really like to know what his magic was, he only said it is really hard to do without two people
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My issue after installing a new booster and new master cylinder is the brakes only engage or grab at the last inch / last minute of the peddle stroke / Travel range once peddle is depressed .

- Vehical spec's 1/79 FJ43L-KC , 4 Wheel Power drum brakes , it is a Correct OEM Stock set up for a Global Spec. / NO Modifications of any kind

- I have adjusted All 4 Wheel drum brakes up good to where they should be

- I have bled the brakes twice / all 8 wheel cylinders , is it possible this is a stubborn air pocket ?

- I can only speculate the booster push rod might be pushed / adjusted too far in the master cylinder bore piston at rest , thus giving me less total fluid compression through the peddle stroke ?

Thoughts ? o_O
 
ToyotaMatt said:
My issue after installing a new booster and new master cylinder is the brakes only engage or grab at the last inch / last minute of the peddle stroke / Travel range once peddle is depressed .

- Vehical spec's 1/79 FJ43L-KC , 4 Wheel Power drum brakes , it is a Correct OEM Stock set up for a Global Spec. / NO Modifications of any kind

- I have adjusted All 4 Wheel drum brakes up good to where they should be

- I have bled the brakes twice / all 8 wheel cylinders , is it possible this is a stubborn air pocket ?

- I can only speculate the booster push rod might be pushed / adjusted too far in the master cylinder bore piston at rest , thus giving me less total fluid compression through the peddle stroke ?

Thoughts ? o_O
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Right, it's probably the booster push rod adjustment. I'd go without the gasket. Given the clearance spec is 0.1 - 0.5 mm, that gasket can throw you off spec. Besides, the gasket serves no purpose. If the MC leaks in the distant future, it's better for brake fluid to drip out than to be trapped by the gasket and then sucked into the booster.
 
Racer65 said:
Right, it's probably the booster push rod adjustment. I'd go without the gasket. Given the clearance spec is 0.1 - 0.5 mm, that gasket can throw you off spec. Besides, the gasket serves no purpose. If the MC leaks in the distant future, it's better for brake fluid to drip out than to be trapped by the gasket and then sucked into the booster.
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U have a good point Regarding the gasket holding in brake fluid , after all that's exactly why the booster needed replacement to begin with was fluid Contamination form a leaking Master Cylinder Bore piston out the back side
 
@RAGINGMATT I'm having similar issues getting any kind of brake pedal, although i think mine's more related to air in the lines vs pedal travel. My local mechanic also spent a day unsuccessfully trying to bleed them. One thing I noticed when using calipers to measure the distances on mine was the issue described here. In fact I need to go shine a light behind it to see if that gap is still visible, but I think it is. Even with the factory countersink on my new MC it looked like those little flanges will hold it about 1mm off. I don't know if that's something the SST would account for depending on where you rest the outer pins? So maybe that combined with the gasket has your pin about 1-2mm shallow?
 
Too much pedal travel could be excessive pedal clearance (needs adjusted w/ new booster) or excessive MC clearance (adjust w/ new booster or MC) or excessive brake clearance (shoes need adjusted every frickin day).

There are also reports that aftermarket wheel cylinders are defective and cannot be bled of all air, which can give excess travel.
 
FJ40Jim said:
There are also reports that aftermarket wheel cylinders are defective and cannot be bled of all air, which can give excess travel.
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I think that's where my problem lies. I have aftermarket cylinders from the PO on all 4 wheels. I ordered Japanese aftermarkets for the rear from Cruiser Outfitters that I'll try out this weekend or next, but I've also read that "some" (hopefully not my new ones) can only be bled by taking them off completely and burping them underwater in a gallon of brake fluid. But it's also possible I don't have the booster adjusted properly. So....subscribed!
 
This afternoon I finally made time for My new SST , I went step by step by the book , The piston pin Push Rod was Out of adjustment and needed to be extended out , I have not test-driven truck Yet , but the Pedal key off at rest feels a bit more solid

I did indeed measure with the paper gasket in place , but cut a weep hole out of bottom side to quickly expose and future Master Cylinder Fluid leak

Note : If Doing the Job twice / Again make sure to Site Protect Vehical paint From brake Fluid , I did as a matter of course & was glad because fluid did seep out the New Rubber Reservoir cap Vent


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